Life in the District (kind of)

I've never had to keep a personal calendar before. In college, I had Gmail calendars for my classes and my extra curricular activities, but personal events just kind of happened. When I moved on to grad school, I had no friends so my calendar kind of looked like this:
Monday - gym
Tuesday - gym
Wednesday - gym
Thursday - gym
Friday - go to Penn State for friends and football

Nightlife in Shenyang was lively, but scheduled way in advance and spread throughout the calendar (monthly book club, dinner parties, road trips). Yes, there were times where I was shocked because I had to choose between one event or another, something you wouldn't expect in a 30-some American post in the desolate northeast. But all in all, I could keep things straight in my head.

I've had to start a personal calendar since arriving in DC. Who ever would have thought that after only two years I have more than a handful of solid friends looking to meet up over the week? Certainly not I!

Classes at FSI started on January 13 for me and although the daytime has been easy (simple certification and leadership courses before language classes start February 24), the evenings have been one get-together after another. I have friends/colleagues from Shenyang who are either in language training at FSI or back on desks at Main State, friends from my Orientation class who are transitioning to post or in training with me, and high school/college friends that I'm reconnecting with after joining the adult world. Nights like tonight (where I'm just sitting on the couch in front of my computer or reading a book) are super rare but I'm learning to schedule them in and treasure them greatly.

I'm also enjoying getting back to my workout schedule. The benefits of living in Arlington are MANY but one I'm super duper stoked about is the easy access to so many running trails. From my apartment, I am less than 5 minutes run from the Mt. Vernon trail, which runs up along the Potomac River with beautiful views of the Capitol monuments (Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, etc). Once I get my mileage and distance back up to par, I can also make my way over to Georgetown, the Mall, and the Jefferson Memorial (my favorite monument). Living in Shenyang and China in general gave me such a respect for clear air, good weather, and blue skies, all of which are here for the most part. I can't wait until the cherry blossoms start to bloom, just wait for the Instagram photo flood when that happens.

Tonight is the State of the Union address, where the President announces his thematic agenda for the upcoming year. In the past, I've paid attention to the STOU as a political science major and with general interest in the "state of the nation." But right now, after running in the District tonight with security on high, feeling the tension in the air, I really do feel a connection watching the address. There is a different feeling for me this year, being so close to the District and (finally!) so close to the start of something new. Looking forward to seeing where it goes from here.

Hawaii - Oahu

PCS Transfer:
Shenyang -> Seoul -> Oahu -> Kauai -> Maui -> Phoenix -> Philadelphia

Departing Shenyang on such a high, I couldn't imagine anything better than the last 24 hours. But God has smiled down on me once again and proved that wrong. A trend that soon became the motto for my trip through Hawaii.

If you had twenty work days (or basically four weeks) of paid leave to do whatever you want with, what would you do? Armed with a set budget for flights and an open calendar, I thought pretty hard about that question when I was planning my PCS (permanent change of station) transfer. I cost constructed an itinerary that would have me stopping in Hawaii and Arizona for some adventures and sight-seeing.

Flying east from Shenyang, I figured I could stop in Oahu, Hawaii to visit my best friend and roommate from college, the Egyptian. A beautiful girl with an even more beautiful soul, she's been there for me through everything. After living together for four years, we have come to understand each other and balance out one another's quirks. Thankfully for me, she's currently stationed in Oahu with the Army as an ob/gyn doctor and was willing to have me come visit and stay with her. Super stoked, I made Hawaii my first destination.

I had never been to Hawaii before, so I really didn't know what to expect. In four days on Oahu, I saw the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, the most pristine white sand beaches, the lushest green mountain cliffs, and the clearest blue water I've ever seen in my life.
Aside from the beauty of Oahu, the atmosphere on this island has been my favorite. Known as "the gathering place," Oahu is home to Hawaii's capital Honolulu and the largest population out of the islands (although the big island of Hawaii is actually the largest in size). I visited downtown Honolulu, Waikiki, Hawaii Kai, and Kailua, on the windward coast where the Egyptian lives. Each with its own character, with Waikiki full of luxury shopping malls and fancy dining for the tourists, Hawaii Kai with its sprawling homes in the shadow of the Koko Head Crater, and Kailua, a hidden gem of a town with hands-down the best beach in all of Hawaii.

Knowing I had a limited amount of time on the island, I tried my best to pack as much as possible into my days. Here is my general itinerary and some photos to go along with it:
• Waikiki highrise sunset
• Kailua Beach sunrise and 7km run
• Breakfast at Cinnamon's
• Tailgating at Hawaii Stadium
• Dinner at Korean BBQ
• Boydo-In Japanese Temple
• Sand Island sunset
• Pali Lookout
• Mokapu'u Lighthouse hike
• Coffee Bean distributor
• Waikiki park and Honolulu sunset
• Pillboxes Trail hike
• Kailua Beach relaxing

Boydo-In Temple

Mokapu'u Lighthouse

Waikiki Beach

Pillboxes Hike panorama

Following all of this, I was able to steal the Egyptian away from work to go to Kauai and Maui for a bit of island hopping.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...

My Love-Hate Relationship with China's Weather

9th Floor Deck

Today I write you from the luxury of a comfortable wicker chair on the ninth floor deck of my apartment building. The sky is the shade of blue you find in a children's book on primary colors. The clouds are few, but when they pop up in the sky, they are big and fluffy like cotton candy. The temperature is warm and yes, I'm sweating, but I am thoroughly enjoying the glisten on my skin because it means I just might be getting some color on my skin. It's August and I haven't worn my bathing suit at a pool once this summer, or dipped my toes into warm water at the beach. I'm envious of my friends back home who spent three day weekends at the shore, soaking in fresh sun with fresh, salty beach air and the screams on happy children. Here in Shenyang, the ambient noise I hear is cranes creaking, horns honking, and the soft rumble of hundreds of air conditioner units.

But you know what? I'm in a minor state of bliss right now because the planets have aligned and the weather conditions seem perfect. Well, relatively perfect. It is China after all.

The View From the Street: Fluffy White Cloud

When people hear about Shenyang, the cold weather is the most common characteristic that comes to mind. And that's about right, since six months out of the year, the weather falls into the "winter" category. But what about the other months? In my opinion, May and September are the best months in Shenyang. May brings spring and the blooming of flowers and trees, along with crisp breezes and warming temperatures. September is solidly autumn (my favorite season ever) and the leaves (where you can find them) change to yellows, oranges, and reds before falling off in the brisk wind. It's a season of sweaters and knits, scarves and boots. In these months, the air is also at its best, with the air quality generally low, give or take a few consecutive days of smog. If Shenyang only has weather like May through September, it wouldn't be such a bad place.

But the smog is unpredictable. Now that the consulate has its own air monitor, we know just how bad the air can be, at any given hour of the day. As much as we try to guess what tomorrow or the weekend will bring, the air quality index (AQI) can vary drastically from one hour to the next. Yesterday for example, the consulate management team sent out a morning warning that the AQI was high, about 350, and to limit outdoor activity. The written notice only confirmed what I hade earlier realized by myself, waking up with a sore throat and tight chest, and looking out on a haze-filled city landscape. But by 4:00, the skies were as clear and blue as they are today, and our air monitor read an AQI of 26. We sat outside for a CG meet-and-greet and then later a few of us had a drinks outside in the cool evening light.

Shenyang: High AQI vs. Low AQI

There is a very tangible reaction to the weather and air quality here in Shenyang. When the AQI is bad and the weather poor, I notice myself and others are more irritable, more likely to complain. Fewer people walk home, ride their bikes, stay outside. There are weeks when the pollution is consistently bad, and the tension rises to a point where people get together more to increase their spirits. It is very necessary to let off steam, as they say. But, when the AQI is low and the weather gorgeous, I can't help but smile and rejoice. Everyone seems happier and more easy-going. We joke that we are not in Shenyang at all, because this is such a rare occasion. It is such a refreshing feeling to sit outside today and enjoy the vitamin D and the soft breeze while reading a book. It happens so infrequently when the stars align that I feel the urge to make something of it. Every precious hour of blue sky day and clear air must be taken advantage of in some way.

And only now, when the sun has gone behind the skyscraper apartment building next to mine, do I feel like it is okay to go back inside to my apartment for a while. But I could put on my running shoes and go for a long run outside, couldn't I? Any chance to soak up more sun and more fresh air...