Cambodia: Beyond Siem Reap (Day 5)

Itinerary

• Banteay Srei
• Phnom Kulen
• Reclining Buddha
• One Thousand Lingas
• King's Waterfall
• Bar Street
• Blue Pumpkin
• Red Piano
• live jazz at hotel

Yesterday, I arranged a driver and a guide to take me to two of the more distant locations. I had seen photos of the waterfall and I knew it was one of the things I had to do: jump in. So we started off early; I hoped to beat the tourists to the temples.

Banteay Srei is the best example of intricate stonework and carvings. The artwork is also the best preserved in the country. Located about 30 minutes outside of Siem Reap, the temple is situated in the middle of nowhere. During the war, the complex was used a stronghold for the Vietnamese army. Today, with the skies holding back rain but the ground soaked with the previous days' deluge, the moat and the walkways were full of water, adding to the surrealness of my visit. Small in comparison to the Angkor temples, Banteay Srei is humble but absolutely magnificent. I couldn't get over the beautiful depth to the carvings and the infinite level of detail. Every nook was covered with something intricate. I'll let the pictures explain:

Super happy at the Reclining Buddha

After clicking away to my heart's content (as evidenced above), we loaded up for another 30 minute drive to Phnom Kulen National Park. The temple with the Reclining Buddha is still active, so when I visited it was busy with people paying their respects for the current holiday. Originally carved into the side of the mountain, the Buddha is now covered by an enclosure with a roof and stairs, and surrounded by small shrines for donations. The view from the balcony is impressive, of the valley below and the Kulen plateau. On our way down, we stopped at the river but due to the heavy rains, the One Thousand Lingas weren't visible. Onto the waterfall, which was very much visible.

The waterfall has three levels, the top for the king to bathe in, the middle for his family and religious folk, and the bottom for the military and commoners. Because the current was so strong, I could only swim in the bottom level, and even that was tough... It was a great relief from the heat when I finally got in, though. The water was once thought to be holy because it came from Buddha's mountain and it runs all the way into the Siem Reap River and eventually the Tongle Sap Lake. Basically all the water in the region originates here, so every moat and stream in Siem Reap is holy. Cool, huh? Anyway, I clambered around on the mossy river rocks until it was time eat.

Lunch with my guide was interesting, especially to hear from the local as he felt about his country and its place in the world these days. I wish I could remember his name, but he spoke so fast that I never quite got past calling him sir. As a guide, he was certainly knowledgeable, but a bit hard to understand. I enjoyed hearing his stories and his silly jokes. I couldn't understand why he kept calling the drive to the mountain the "massage" road. Until we started up the steep, bumpy road... then I realized he was saying I'd be getting a free massage from the road. Not quite! He eventually explained how military rank equals a level of power here, but if you have enough money you can buy a higher rank, no problem. He also went into detail about the reasons why Thais and Khmer do not get along (from a Khmer perspective) and told me a personal border crossing story that was harrowing. Most people are rice farms, bur tourism and government work are also solid sources of income. All great facts that provided great knowledge for a day in the countryside.

The ride back was long, so I nodded off in the back seat on the way home. Before cleaning up completely for the jazz night at the hotel, I headed downtown to explore the night market, the bar street, and some local restaurants. I hadn't realized how completely my hotel was a little piece of heaven in a bustling tourist town. The bar street and night market reminded me of the night markets in Taipei, alive and bustling with different items to eat and places to grab a drink. I stopped for some quick food at the Red Piano (where Angie ate during filming!) and grabbed a snack for later at the Blue Pumpkin (love the ice cream). After a proper shower, I made my way over to the restaurant of the hotel for some fabulous live jazz and some mingling with local businesspeople, NGOs, teachers, and other hotel patrons. A great ambiance and some really interesting people. Every day gets better and better!

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 4)

Itinerary 

• sunrise at Angkor Wat 
• explore the complex
• breakfast at hotel 
• Phnom Thom complex 
• Bayon 
• Baphoun 
• Phimeanakas 
• Terrace of Elephants 
• lunch at local Khmer restaurant 
• Ta Prohm 

At 5:30am, I walked out of the hotel and looked up at the starry sky. Pitch black except for the bright specks of light that shone back at me and the huge moon above. Mr. Hak was waiting for me there with a nice cooler full of water for the day and fruit. Off we went to the park entrance, heading north to the edge of the huge moat, turning left around its edges as we joined the line of tuk-tuks headlights heading to the west entrance of the Angkor Wat complex. Mr. Hak had obviously done the sunrise thing before, because as I jumped out all bushy-tailed and eager, he handed me a flashlight, a bottle of water, and a cold towel. "I'll be over there whenever you're finished," he giggled as I headed to the causeway.

A muted sunrise, still beautiful

The walk across the land bridge was magical, as I looked up at the moon I realized how awesome this trip really is. Surrounded by a grand moat that wraps around the entire complex, Angkor Wat makes the Forbidden City look like peanuts. Armed with my flashlight, my camera, and accompanied by a thousand twinkling stars, I felt in my element... the start of a great day. The clouds soon rolled in and the sunrise was obscured (nothing like the professional photo shoots you see in magazines), but the moment was still amazing. The hordes were there with me at the northern reflecting pool, but among them I found an inner calm and enjoyed the morning reflection of the western profile of Angkor. Despite the people, it was still serene. I knew it would empty out after "sunrise" as people went back to their hotels for breakfast, so I stuck around to explore.

Inside the complex

I really felt like an ant crawling in a mansion. The temple is tiered, and as it has many walkways, you only realize its immensity after you cross each tiered level, the temple is higher and grander than you ever expected. I entered along with everyone from the west. According to Hindu/Buddhist religion, the west signifies death, which leads historians to believe that this temple was dedicated post-mortem to Jayavarman in order to honor his life. In any case, it's massive and impressive. As I exited the main hall to the north, I crawled up the steep steps of the library building and stopped in awe. The green grass in contrast to the misty mossy rock face of the walls simply caught my breath. 

Angkor Wat from the southern reflecting pool

I enjoyed the good part of the morning scampering across the complex and enjoying the sights. By the time 8:00am rolled around, I'd walked the entire thing and was hankering for some food. Unlike most hotels that offer a complimentary buffet breakfast, the chefs cook to order here at the Heritage. Meaning? I can get whatever I want. My omelet with red and green peppers and onion was scrumptious, as was my bacon and hash browns.

Thanks, Mr. Hak!

After the refuel, Mr. Hak took me back out to Angkor Thom, a giant walled city complex with absolutely so much to see. I got so giddy again at the sight of the south gate that Mr. Hak had to tell me to calm down and stop shaking the tuk-tuk. He offered to take my photograph at all the scenic spots (think he's done this before?) which was great as a solo traveler. After driving tourists around his whole life, it turns out he can take better photos than I can!

The Bayon is the first temple one comes to in the complex and it is a ruin with tons of hidden nooks. Also tons of tourists, so I tried to click my camera and admire as deftly as I could so I could move on to somewhere less crowded. On the top, steepest part of the Bayon, you can look down and see the sheer size of the temple below you. I was blown away at how every bit was covered with carvings and yet I was still allowed to crawl on every part. Even more than Bagan, Burma, I felt like Indiana Jones exploring some lost artifacts. 

Inside the Bayon

In my opinion, the Bapuon was the most impressive from afar, with its long walkway approach and the massive reflecting pools. From the inside, the carvings were less intricate and detailed, and the character of the temple was missing. Again, three massive tiers and a breathtaking view from the top as well. At this point in the late morning, my inner battery and my camera battery were strained, so I pushed ahead as the sun beat down.

The Bapuon from above

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas (which means celestial palace) reminded me of the Mayan pyramid temples and their place in Macchu Picchu. A dauntingly deep moat and steep steep steps kept me from climbing up, but I enjoyed the jungle shade surrounding it and the view as the sun shone down overhead. I continued to admire the day as I walked up the steps to the Elephant Terrace, imagining myself as King of the central square, minus all of the tour buses, of course. 

After stopping quickly at two smaller temples (Thommanon & Chau Say Tevoda), Mr. Hak brought me to a local place for lunch. Those two temples might have been my favorite of the day because of their intricate humility and the relative emptiness.

Chau Say Tevoda

Oh, and the Victory Gate, which Mr. Hak took me to on our way out of Angkor Thom, a massive eastern gate that I had the pleasure to enjoy all to myself. Lunch was tasty Khmer food (pronounced kh-may) with a handy helping of ginger and lemongrass. I bucked up for one more temple --> Ta Prohm: the large, famous ruin as featured in the Tomb Raider series. Well worth the trip to Cambodia alone. 

I took about two hours to explore this temple because unlike the others that were cleared of trees and vegetation, Ta Prohm still very much exists within the jungle's embrace. The roots of the large strangler fig trees entwine with the windows and walls of the temple. Tall columns lie on their sides after fighting long battles with the roots and the weather beating down on them, now covered with lush green moss. Parts of the temple are roped off, with restoration scaffolding and machinery strewn around. Elsewhere, guests are free to climb over stones, through ancient doorways still standing, and down tiny crumbled corridors. Despite many restoration projects, it still holds an undiscovered charm. 

Strangler fig tree at Ta Prohm

My walk back to the tuk-tuke came with rain, and by the time I arrived back at the hotel, I was exhausted completely. My nap was SOLID and totally restorative. The rain had finished by then, so I showered and dressed for dinner. This place is swanky, so I didn't feel out of place dressing up in heels. I did feel a little weird eating alone surrounded by couples, but I was able to write this post in peace and reflection. The meal was divine, with marinated Khmer beef rolls, served in a grilled pineapple, and melt-in-your-mouth succulent. The dessert was topped with Bailey's ice cream, so naturally, it was FABULOUS. A splendid first full day in Siem Reap. I love it already.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 3)

Itinerary

• Crêpe Mania - OPEN!
• Russian Market
• Wat Phnom
• Brown's Coffee Riverside
• Airport transfer to Siem Reap

Sleeping in was a great idea. The morning view from my canopy bed was stunning, with blue skies and temples. ::awe:: So beautiful and serene.

They don't call it the Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel for no reason

I retried going to Crêpe Mania and it was definitely worth going back. The owner said that they were doing a photo shoot the day before for a new menu, so I was glad to have the chance. First, great music soundtrack. I had to keep pulling out my phone to Shazam songs I liked but hadn't heard before. Yay for new mellow music!

My delicious breakfast

Second, what IS it with Phnom Penh and all the good food?? So tasty I couldn't get enough. I had the Madame, like a croque-monsieur plus an egg, wrapped in a tasty whole wheat crêpe. I'd totally come back here a dozen times to try all the types of sweet and salty/savory flavors they offer. A great place to read the newspaper too... PS I need to find another word other than "great" because I obviously use it too much here in Cambodia.

The Russian Market: just another Asian market. BUT, more "real" than the Central Market that is geared to tourists. Locals were shopping here, getting their hair done, buying groceries, and bartering for home goods. There were some incredible colorful photo opportunities in the fabric section and I
bought some souvenirs for the family. I still can't get over the fabrics and silks. Absolutely stunning and in every color imaginable. I bought one today and three yesterday. I know I won't be able to choose which to give away as gifts.

At Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom was a small and slightly run down temple, but perhaps that's because it's still used quite a bit. I enjoyed looking at the bronzes and it was certainly a taste of things to come in Siem Reap. Located on the phnom/hill that the city was named for, this wat/temple is situated at a roundabout, one side of which faces the U.S. Embassy. A newish complex that seems massive compared to the Consulate in Shenyang. Perhaps a future tour in Cambodia? I think yes...

I had a quick lunch at Brown's Riverside location with a local woman I met at the Central Market and her two adorable children. Interesting conversation as well. Her advice? Although unsolicited: life is better with children and without men, since blood will always be thicker than love. Woof! I didn't ask too many questions but I can bet there are some stories behind that!

More iced drinks!

After a hot and dusty tuk-tuk ride to the airport, plus a quick 45-minute plane ride, I landed in paradise. COMPLETELY. I could go on and on about Siem Reap... for another post.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 2)

Itinerary

• Will's Cafe
• National Museum of Cambodia
• Friends Cafe - Closed
• Crêpe Mania - Closed
• Brown's Coffee and Bakery (cafe food)
• Royal Palace
• Hotel
• Deco (Modern American food)

A much tougher run today, not as refreshing as yesterday. But what can you do? I can't control everything. 

Dragon outside the National Museum

After yesterday's intense itinerary, today's was more in the historic realm. My first stop after a fab brunch was the National Museum, which is literally a few blocks from my hotel. I really wish I could have taken photos inside because the artifacts were so impressive. I snuck a few with my iPhone (shh! don't tell!) but there was even beauty in the building itself, so I did admire the architecture and its lush courtyard. Hot as balls with no air conditioning, though with frequent shaded bench breaks and meditation moments outside, I survived. Inside, a room with hundreds of different Buddha statues was the most impressive, all in different sizes and variations of poses. Statues and carvings throughout were staggeringly impressive, yet the museum itself is humble and uncommanding.

I tried a few places nearby for lunch but because of the upcoming holiday, some places were closed. Ended up at a coffee joint suggested to me for a delicious local drink: iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. It threw me into such a state of relaxation that I ended up just chilling there to eat a light lunch. My waitress was so floored to hear that I was American but I chose to visit her country from China. She asked how I had heard about Brown's and was giddy to learn that a foreigner had recommended it to me. The simple things in life. The chicken pesto sandwich was delish (seriously, like so close to Cosi's the memories came rushing back) and it filled me up just enough to get me through the next leg of the day. Brown's is a great place to whittle away the two hours I had until the palace opened after lunch. Oh, and everywhere here has free wifi! Just ask for the password.

Intricate roof of the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace itself is a massive white building with tiered roofs and intricate tilework, but the grounds are even more impressive and large. Unfortunately, as I was buying tickets, I heard the ever-familiar drone of Mandarin Chinese. When I realized I would be sharing the space with a whole bunch of Mainlanders, I sighed. But to be honest, the place was big enough that I could avoid them easily. Gilded buildings all over with many awnings, a couple hundred carvings, and sculptures dotting the gardens. Everywhere one looked, another beautiful building to explore. There were even monkeys around, chirping at tourists who brought snacks like bananas or oranges. Quite the photo op!

Nomnomnom

I tired quickly with the grating company of the Zhongguoren and the heat of the afternoon sun. By 3, I was puckered out and in need of some water. Although my hotel was still only 100m from the palace entrance, it felt like a marathon to walk there in the sweltering temperatures. I collapsed on the bed once I arrived, but before I fell asleep, I donned my bathing suit and made my way up to the rooftop pool deck. There, I quick dove in for a swim and promptly passed out on the lounge chair. Almost two hours later, my body somewhat rested, I made my way back to the room to prep for dinner.

Waiting for Gatsby

The Advisor (a weekly local magazine) had rave reviews of a fairly new-ish restaurant called Deco. Small, precise menu but lauded for the fabulous drinks. No convincing necessary here! I made a reservation (for 1, so sad!) and hopped in a tuk-tuk over to the southern part of town. Totally worth the hype for the cocktails and the food was tasty too. I asked for more flatbread to mop up the delicious yogurt spinach lentil dish I started with, but I would have used my fingers it was that good. After two well-crafted drinks made with a hefty amount of gin, I would probably have enjoyed anything though. The music was great and the ambiance was totally Great Gatsby-esque. I had no problem heading to bed early with the hope of sleeping in a bit for my final day in Phnom Penh. 

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 1)

Itinerary

• Choeung Ek Killing Fields
• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
• Magnolia Restaurant (Khmer-Vietnamese food)
• Phsar Thmei - Central Market
• Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel
• Taqueria Corona (Mexican food)
• Riverside walk
• Blue Pumpkin (ice cream & bakery)
• Foreign Correspondents' Club

I woke up to the beautiful sound of birds. You don't hear chirping birds (or any wildlife, for that matter) in China. How refreshing. 

My morning run took me by the Royal Palace, where locals exercised outside the main gate or fed the morning pigeons. Typical Asian elements were there, like choreographed dancing to canned music, fresh fruit stands, people on their motorbikes heading to work. The route went around Koh Pich Island, a desolate Atlantic City-esque place that aims to be a center of luxury but in the daytime is a little sad. Across the Mekong River, you can see high rises that remind me of China's landscape. Perhaps they're built by Chinese real estate tycoons? Nevertheless, it was still nice to get out and stretch my legs after the flight.

Aside from the glorious temples of Cambodia located in Siem Reap, Cambodia has a dark history and is known for the Khmer Rouge regime and Pol Pot. In my opinion, a trip to Cambodia and Phnom Penh wouldn't be complete without a trip to the genocidal killing fields, at least to acknowledge this country's more recent grim history and pay respect to those that lost their lives. So the Choeung Ek Killing Fields site was my first stop of the day, located about 45 minutes via tuk-tuk outside of the city. 

Remembrance Bracelets at the Killing Fields

No two genocides are the "same" but the feeling I had at the Killing Fields is the same I had when I visited the Dachau Concentration Camp. When given a belief to hide behind, people are capable of inhuman things. The difference for Cambodia is that, to my knowledge, it's one of the few genocides where the regime attacked its own people. In any case, the site is well preserved, and the $2 audio
guide was very well made, I totally recommend it. Full of history and insight, the guide provided a narrative to the sights. Listening to a still-alive survivor of the 1978 events while standing beside a mass grave once filled with over 450 innocent bodies is very moving. This atrocity happened only 30 years ago, give or take, so the history for some is very much alive today. I am glad I had the opportunity to learn more about it from a first-hand perspective.

The Tuol Sleng facility is where the victims of the killing fields were first sent after they were arrested, to be tortured, interrogated, and held captive until they were transferred. An old school converted into the Security Prison 21 (S-21), Tuol Sleng's halls and cells are now bare except for barbed wire and metal beds with shackles. When Pol Pot's regime was finally overthrown, the resistance entered Tuol Sleng and freed the seven survivors, while photo-documenting those still chained to the beds who were not as fortunate. Large prints of these victims hang on the walls in the cells, left as they were in 1979. Haunting.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

::sigh:: After such a serious morning, I tried to lighten my afternoon at a local Khmer food restaurant for some authentic dishes (and delicious coffee), and then headed over to the art deco Central Market for some retail therapy. Like typical Asian markets, the wares were cheap and bargainable, and very varied (shoes, belts, bags, clothes, cosmetics, watches, jewelry, glasses, gifts, and oh yes, raw meat, live fish and flowers). I bought some scarves, postcards, and a pair of sandals. Heading back to the hotel after a long day, I thought about how much this country has rebounded after such a momentous past. 

I had dinner with A and his wife who both work here after a number of years serving in China. The Mexican restaurant we met at had some seriously delicious food and the conversations was great. Sharing China memories and comparisons to Cambodia made it easier for me to admire this country for its accomplishments and its charm. They gave me some insider recommendations for Phnom Penh and my onward trip to Siem Reap, and it was exciting to hear about their new lives settling in. It was a true pleasure to see them again in a new setting. Although I didn't really want to say goodbye, we parted ways after a tasty meal and will certainly stay in touch in the future given this small world. 

The evening ended up with a riverside walk along the Mekong, some delicious ice cream and petit madelines, and few local beers with some other expats at the FCC. Day 1, although heart-wrenching and slightly depressing, showed me just how beautiful, diverse, and impressive Cambodia truly is.

The view from the FCC

Home

I'm writing this from an airplane taking me back to Shenyang, not knowing which direction home is for me. For those of you who don't know, I recently went home to Pennsylvania to see my Poppop who is now in hospice care. I spent from Tuesday to Saturday back home and had the blessing of an opportunity to spend time with Poppop before I had to leave. Doctors have diagnosed him with stage four lung cancer and he has been having a hard time breathing. But throughout all of his pain, my Poppop has been a steady rock, ever faithful in his belief that he is headed Home. He is not afraid of the future because he knows what is waiting for him ahead. That kind of faith impresses and humbles me, teaching me that while life is precious, it is our belief in something greater that can help us through tough times.

Four full days with my family and friends was hardly "enough" but I cannot be greedy. One hour with Poppop was worth every minute and dollar spent traveling. When I was on the fence about coming home, it was my colleagues who told me stories of their loved ones' passing that helped me make the decision. Not everyone gets the opportunity to say goodbye (especially in the Foreign Service), and it's often only the funeral that one can make it home to be part of. For four full days, I am utterly grateful.

I left early Sunday morning, and I will get in to Shenyang late Monday night. I'm stuck here in the air in limbo, a middle place between two homes. No doubt Philadelphia will always be home to me, but in the two short years I've spent in the Foreign Service, Shenyang has become a second home as well. I've nested, learned the streets, spent winters and summers in this tiny/huge city of 8 million (in addition to the biggest factor of making tons of friends here). And soon I'll say goodbye to my present home in Shenyang, maybe forever, who knows. It's scary, but exciting, because the future is unknown but very much likely better than the present. It's up to me.

Though hardly equivalent in scale or life meaning, I like to think that my Poppop is also going to a future place, unknown but much better. He will enter heaven with the light of grace shining him forward, to meet his family living on the other side. There won't be any more pain or suffering. Although he won't be with us anymore in this familiar place, he will have a future of blessings and hopefully look over us as we continue our little treks in this big world.

I'm anxious about this period of time being incommunicado with my family. I wish I could be connected here but in the end, I know that whatever will be will be. Until next time, I sign off with the hope that my Poppop is sleeping a restful night with no pain, until he's ready to make his journey home.

In the early morning of Monday, September 23, Duard Glass, my Poppop, passed away. He was 80 years old.

Dear Poppop Glassie: I love you, forever. Thanks for the best birfday cards, lots of belly laughs, and being a great model of faith in my life. I'll miss you, but know that you're in a better place. Your Caroline

http://www.deckerfuneralhome.com/obituaries.asp?id=1075

Wordless Wednesday (Burma)

100 Days

People in the Foreign Service are planners. Before FS folk bid on a place, they research the post extensively, including everything from schools and driving to the availability of dish soap and kitty litter. We have an entire office dedicated to providing guidance and planning information for our transfers. Once at post, we work off of to-the-minute Outlook calendars and weekly countdown meetings, taskers and hourly schedules for incoming visitors. Especially in the OMS world, organization is the key and the MO of our daily lives. So with that knowledge, I present to you:

The Countdown Spreadsheet:

Someone waaaaay before me created this spreadsheet and I heard about it through the BFF when I got to post. Simply plug in your start and end date and the spreadsheet tells you how many months, weeks, days, hours, minutes and seconds you have left in your tour. I can see this being potentially dangerous for people who have awful tours, but I only ever looked at this once or twice during my time here. Once at about the 1-year mark, and then more recently when I realized I was coming up on 100 days. Well folks: I have 100 days and counting left in Shenyang...

Honestly, it's gone by so fast. The comings and goings of people. The happenings of large events and parties. Trips and excursions and getting lost along the way. Shenyang 2011-2013 is 3.32 months from over for me and I can't believe it. True, I've had hard times and heartbreak that make November 2013 seem long in coming, but the absolutely great times, great memories, and great friends throughout have made it the best anyone could have expected out of a first tour. I wouldn't exchange it for the world!

Fourteen weeks is still a long time, and I am glad for it. I'm not ready to leave yet and I have some things to check off before I go. Some of them include:

• A road trip to Changbaishan, the glacier lake along North Korea's border (mid Sep)
• An adventure through Cambodia, to visit friends in Phonm Penh and tour Siem Reap and Angkor Wat (end Sep- early Oct)
• A Halloween pub crawl to leave my last mark on the bar scene in Shenyang (end Oct)
• A final visit to Beijing to get my last set of clothes made and bid farewell to the capital (mid Nov)
• A massive Thanksgiving party to rival last years' extravaganza (end Nov)

Plus, having just witnessed the crazy amount of farewell gatherings for my colleagues here in Shenyang, I can guess that the last two or three weeks will simply be PACKED full of dinners, lunches, and outings to say goodbye (in addition to the official duties like packing out my apartment and checking out of the office). 

In the meantime, I have really been enjoying looking on the bright side of life lately. R mentioned to me that perhaps it is the weight lifted from my shoulders of no longer worrying about saying goodbye. Instead of fretting to eek out precious moments here at post, I am actively making plans to reunite with the people who left in their new habitats. That excitement, in addition to the weekend's beautiful weather, has me feeling simply buoyant. I'd like to hold onto this summery glow of basking in the worry-free sun forever, but I know that just as autumn and winter will soon tumble down upon us, my impending departure date will also creep up faster than I can imagine.

Here's to 2,404 2,402 more wonderful hours in Shenyang!

Photography through Carolyn's Lens

When I joined the Foreign Service, the only camera I owned was my iPhone, which is actually quite decent for capturing spur of the moment shots. However, when I traveled to cool new places like the Great Wall, Taipei, Burma, and New Zealand, an iPhone was not going to cut it. Earlier this year I bought my first "real" camera: a Canon EOS Rebel T3i. I had played around with a friend's T2i and really enjoyed the feel and ease. Most of my photographs from Taipei are from the T2i. I had also played around with my colleague's Nikon D90 a bit too. All of my Burma photographs (Yangon / Bagan) are from the D90. In my opinion, I found the Canon easier to adjust the settings and take stunning photographs that were effortless on my part.

Disclaimer: I am not a camera guru. I have never taken photography courses. I like to read the Instruction Manuals (yes, I am a nerd), and this is a great place to start for people who have never taken photographs with a DSLR camera that has manual settings. The Internet is also a helpful resource for anyone who is willing to read and watch other peoples' advice. That's basically what you're doing right now, ya know?

I encourage you to click on the photos for a larger view so you can see what I'm describing.

• Exposure: Think of exposure as the overall combination of three settings. To help myself remember what each one does, I liken the settings to the functions of my eye:
• Aperture - pupil & lens, shrinking and dilating to focus the light
• Shutter speed - lid, blinking slow or fast to take in more/less information
• ISO - retina, light-sensing film to take in more/less light
• Aperture: You're on the couch reading a book and suddenly someone comes in the door. As you look up, it takes a second for your eyes to adjust to the new distance. Just like in your eye, setting the aperture allows your camera lens to focus the light. It is measured in f-stop increments. An open aperture is a low number (f/2.8) that would blur the immediate foreground and background, setting the focus on the mid-ground, which is good for portraits. A small aperture is a high number (f/20) that would keep everything sharp from the foreground, mid-ground, and distance background, which can be good for landscapes. 

f/5 - blurred foreground and background with a sharp mid-ground 

f/18 - sharp at all points, even the mountains in the distance

• Shutter speed: Let's say if you're in a park, and you have your eyes shut and open them fast, take in info, and then shut them, you get a pretty good idea of what's going on. You might remember someone mid-stance, a ball in mid-air, a bird flying by. That would be a high shutter speed, maybe 1/1000 of a second. In that picture, you would have frozen the action. If you open your eyes, and maybe even turn your head, you get more information and see the movement. That would be a slow shutter speed, maybe 1 whole second, 1/6 of a second. In that picture, you see water moving, and blurred images of people walking by.

1/1000 of a second - caught the wave, and all the spray 

1/3 of a second - blurred to show movement

• ISO: You're walking in from a brightly-light parking lot and you notice right away how dark it is inside the restaurant where you're meeting someone for a romantic dinner. Just as your pupil adjusted earlier to the light to focus it, your retina will also sense you're in a dark room and take in more light so you can see your meal. When your environment is bright, you want a low ISO number, around 200 or 400, to avoid overexposure. When the environment is dark, you should allow for more light sensitivity, about 1600 or higher, to capture as much information as possible. Unfortunately, when it's too dark and a 3200 ISO cannot capture anything, your image will be grainy and blah.

ISO 100 - A lot of natural light from the window at the back

ISO 3200 - This was taken in pitch black darkness without a tripod with a 6 second shutter speed. The slow shutter speed plus no tripod makes it super blurry. I shot this in RAW format to get the highest amount of information so I could take it into Photoshop and potentially edit it. This is the un-edited version. PS: this is the Milky Way :)

• To help you keep track of all of this, most DSLRs have a general exposure meter that runs from -3 -- 0 -- +3, with 0 being the optimal exposure, -3 being underexposed, and +3 being overexposed. All of this is personal preference, so you can be perfectly happy with an overexposed photo if that's what you're going for. 
• Lens & focal length: Your first setting here is your distance to the subject, which is changed by... well, YOU! To help you get virtually closer, you can use a zoom lens to change the focal length. My DSLR kit came with a moderate lens that ranges from 18-55mm with a max aperture f/3.5-5.6. I use this for most of my shots. I also got a telephoto zoom lens that ranges from 55-250mm with a max aperture f/4-5.6. This is good for super zooms and still captures fine detail. Canon does a great job at explaining what the different lenses do on their website: http://www.canonlenses.ca/ Just drag and drop the different lenses into the compare feature and you can see the difference. Lots of fun.

18mm - Taken with a 18-55mm lens, at the lowest zoom
ISO 400, 18mm, f/14, 1/500

55mm - Taken with a 55-250mm lens, at the lowest zoom
ISO 400, 55mm, f/11, 1/800 

109mm - Taken with a 55-250mm lens at mid-zoom
ISO 400, 109mm, f/11, 1/800

• Focus: With cameras these days, auto focus is awesome. For the most part, I let the camera do the work once I've found what to focus on. On my Canon, if you press the shutter button down half-way, the camera will select the focus based on how I've composed the shot. If I want the picture to focus on another object in the frame, I move the camera so the object is in the center, push the button down half-way to focus, and then reframe the shot by moving the object to where I want it to be. For example, in the shot on the left below, the camera had originally auto-focused on the mountains and I didn't know until I took the shot that the foreground would be so dark. In the second shot on the right, I had refocused on one of the cows in the foreground and then moved the camera so they were in the right side of the picture. You can see that both are pretty shots, but for different reasons. 

Original focus: the mountains in the distance.
The camera realized that it needed to shadow the foreground to capture the light and detail from the background.
ISO 100, 65mm, f/10, 1/320

Refocused: the hill and cows in the foreground.
I lost detail in the mountains by focusing on the cows, but the camera is able to make both visible.
ISO 100, 65mm, f/7.1, 1/160

This is certainly not an exclusive tutorial for photography, by any means at all. But for those of you who have asked me about my camera and my photos, here's an insight in how to get started taking the same kind of pictures! I have found the best way to get good shots is to take a lot of them, and then be very critical of yourself... keep changing settings and perspective until you get the shot you want. Branch out of Auto mode and dive into Manual, or Av (aperture-priority) or Tv (shutter-priority) to have some assistance in choosing the right settings. Read your manual and learn the camera menus so you get faster at changing settings on the fly. Bring your camera with you when you go, because you'll never get "that shot" if you don't have your camera. Charge your batteries and bring an extra memory card, because you never want to have to delete a photo you haven't seen on the computer screen. And take some time to compose the shot!

Happy snapping!

Et cetera - "On the meaning of home, the joy of traveling and the serenity of standing still"

In continuation of my earlier discussion about home leave, I want you to watch this TEDtalk video of Pico Iyer. Pico Iyer is a well-known author who writes about travel and culture and has himself traveled hundreds of thousands of miles around the world as a man from many backgrounds. As a foreign service person, I can relate to his sentimets in this video about what home is. Many times I've thought while traveling, "Ah, this is nice, but I can't wait to be home (in my apartment)." And then there's times where I'm in my apartment in Shenyang and I go, "I miss home (Philadelphia)." And of course, there is always the feeling I get when I've been in one place for so long that I get an itchy sensation in my body to travel again, move places, and experience new things. The state of learning and exploring is also a kind of "home" for me, too.

Who knows where this wanderlust came from, but one thing remains the same: I find that the people in my life and the memories I have with them are ultimately what I call home, and those memories are kept and treasured deep inside of me.

Enjoy!

“It’s only by stopping the movement that you can see where to go. And it’s only by stepping out of your life and the world that you can see what you most deeply care about, and find a home.”

…

“Movement is a fantastic privilege and it allows us to do so much that our grandparents could never have dreamed of doing. But movement, ultimately, only has a meaning if you have a home to go back to. And home, in the end, is of course, not just a place where you sleep. It is the place where you stand.”

Australia: Melbourne

Bell's Beach

A city and suburb that knows how to do culture. If I had to compare it to the truly "great" cities out there, I'd say Melbourne is the Philadelphia of Australia. Hah, guess I'm biased though. ^_~ This was my longest stop throughout the entire trip. I scheduled four nights, five days here, and for good reason. My first desire: drive the Great Ocean Road. Night one and two were spent in the suburbs staying with another colleague who works at the Consulate General there. In order to facilitate the logistics, I rented a car and fulfilled my desire. Day two was spent along the southern coast of Australia, admiring the natural beaches, rock formations, and waterfalls. I love driving, so it was a great pleasure for me to get back out behind the wheel. My Holden Commodore suited me well and we enjoyed the coastal towns of Apollo's Bay, Lorne, Airesley Inlet, and of course Bell's Beach (of Keanu Reeves fame). 

My ride!

Melbourne - Australia's Philadelphia

 The next two nights were spent downtown, at the luxe and environmentally friendly Vibe Savoy, where I was conveniently upgraded to a corner room king suite because I'm awesome (dudes, fill out their surveys!). Lets see, the city had so much to offer, I couldn't choose what to do first. But I managed to fulfill all my other desires: the Shrine of Remembrance, the Botanical Gardens, the Exhibition Hall, Queen Victoria Market, Flinders Street & alleyways, Federation Square, the Museum of Moving Art, and ::gasp:: Hosier Lane. Oh! So fabulous. I could have spent another week in Melbourne but sadly I had to head home. 

Hosier Lane Street Art

The Exhibition Hall

Australia: Sydney

Iconic.

Breathtaking.

Memorable.

When you ask someone what they think of when you think of the city of Sydney, 9 times out of 10 they're going to mention the Opera House. There's no doubt why: its the focal point of the city and harbour. Understandably so, it's absolutely gorgeous. I met up with M, a colleague from The Embassy, and we explored every facet of the Opera House on a behind the scenes tour. Highly encouraged; also, we had the luck to tour it while the Sydney Philharmonic Orchestra was rehearsing Camille Saint-Saëns' "Symphony No. 3 (Organ Symphony)" One of my favorites. My ears were in bliss. The natural acoustics of the amphitheater require no artificial projection. It's truly a masterpiece and showcases the music in all it's glory. Another highlight of my (too-short) time in Sydney was the bridge-climb. M looked this one up and so glad she did. The three-hour tour included us donning jumpsuits sans accessories (no watches, bracelets, cameras, or anything that could fall off) and climbing through the inner structure of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, all the way to the top. The panoramic views of the skyline, harbour, and opera house were breathtaking. It's moments like the one we had on the top of the bridge when I realize how lucky I am to be in the Foreign Service. I'd never get this experience otherwise. Certainly such a realization required celebration, so we headed to The Rocks area for a bite to eat and some liquid nourishment. My only wish for Sydney was that I had longer to spend there. 

New Zealand: The North Island

Wellington from the sky

Wellington: a hipster town nestled into the mountains surrounding a breathtaking bay. On first arrival by ferry, Wellington seems very busy, with cars lining the highways and people bustling about. Perhaps as the nation's capital, it has a reason to be busy. The scene is pretty hipster and has tons to offer in terms of food and drink. While there, we continued our gastronomic feast through New Zealand and ate at some solid restaurants, only topped off by some fabulous drinks ( including home-brewed cider and mulled wine). The atmosphere reminds me of Hong Kong, harbour city that's kinda funky with an edge. Windy Welly was the first real stop where the schedule had nothing planned. As such, we took it easy: visited Te Aro Museum, the Botanical Gardens, and Cuba Street. The runs were hilly and the scenes were generically pretty. While in Wellington, we stayed at Kikki's place, an AirB&B apartment. Knowing the perils of AirB&B, this was a risk. However, it turned out Kikki's place was just as lovely and convenient as advertised. And damn, the bed was comfy!

Downtown Wellington

A view of the Wellington Harbour

Auckland B&W

Auckland: a superbly accessible city that's hip without being TOO hipster and beautiful to boot! I preferred Auckland to Wellington for the same reason why Shenyang is better than Beijing (wait, what? Did I just say that?) Wellington was busy and full of "stuff" to do, but Auckland had real character. The people in Auckland were genuine and took themselves less seriously than the capital people. Now, that's all given the fact that all Kiwis are more genuine and laid-back than any other population I've ever met. Anyway, like Wellington, Auckland also has its hills (gorgeous botanical gardens) and its harbour (biggest marina in the Southern Hemisphere) but in my opinion, it's a much better designed city. The neighborhoods are accessible and the culture is thriving. Lots to see, eat, and drink: so we did! Did I mention it has a huge harbour? Happened to take a spin on an America's Cup racing boat and it made me decide: Auckland is definitely my favorite real city in New Zealand. I'd move here in a heartbeat! While we were here, we stayed in the funky and chic Hotel DeBrett and it was worth the cost to be in the heart of town and surrounded by up-to-date luxury. Divine!

The Domain

A view of the Auckland Harbour while sailing

Best meal of the entire trip

Viaduct Harbour at sunset

The War Memorial