Life in the District (kind of)

I've never had to keep a personal calendar before. In college, I had Gmail calendars for my classes and my extra curricular activities, but personal events just kind of happened. When I moved on to grad school, I had no friends so my calendar kind of looked like this:
Monday - gym
Tuesday - gym
Wednesday - gym
Thursday - gym
Friday - go to Penn State for friends and football

Nightlife in Shenyang was lively, but scheduled way in advance and spread throughout the calendar (monthly book club, dinner parties, road trips). Yes, there were times where I was shocked because I had to choose between one event or another, something you wouldn't expect in a 30-some American post in the desolate northeast. But all in all, I could keep things straight in my head.

I've had to start a personal calendar since arriving in DC. Who ever would have thought that after only two years I have more than a handful of solid friends looking to meet up over the week? Certainly not I!

Classes at FSI started on January 13 for me and although the daytime has been easy (simple certification and leadership courses before language classes start February 24), the evenings have been one get-together after another. I have friends/colleagues from Shenyang who are either in language training at FSI or back on desks at Main State, friends from my Orientation class who are transitioning to post or in training with me, and high school/college friends that I'm reconnecting with after joining the adult world. Nights like tonight (where I'm just sitting on the couch in front of my computer or reading a book) are super rare but I'm learning to schedule them in and treasure them greatly.

I'm also enjoying getting back to my workout schedule. The benefits of living in Arlington are MANY but one I'm super duper stoked about is the easy access to so many running trails. From my apartment, I am less than 5 minutes run from the Mt. Vernon trail, which runs up along the Potomac River with beautiful views of the Capitol monuments (Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, etc). Once I get my mileage and distance back up to par, I can also make my way over to Georgetown, the Mall, and the Jefferson Memorial (my favorite monument). Living in Shenyang and China in general gave me such a respect for clear air, good weather, and blue skies, all of which are here for the most part. I can't wait until the cherry blossoms start to bloom, just wait for the Instagram photo flood when that happens.

Tonight is the State of the Union address, where the President announces his thematic agenda for the upcoming year. In the past, I've paid attention to the STOU as a political science major and with general interest in the "state of the nation." But right now, after running in the District tonight with security on high, feeling the tension in the air, I really do feel a connection watching the address. There is a different feeling for me this year, being so close to the District and (finally!) so close to the start of something new. Looking forward to seeing where it goes from here.

Hawaii - Oahu

PCS Transfer:
Shenyang -> Seoul -> Oahu -> Kauai -> Maui -> Phoenix -> Philadelphia

Departing Shenyang on such a high, I couldn't imagine anything better than the last 24 hours. But God has smiled down on me once again and proved that wrong. A trend that soon became the motto for my trip through Hawaii.

If you had twenty work days (or basically four weeks) of paid leave to do whatever you want with, what would you do? Armed with a set budget for flights and an open calendar, I thought pretty hard about that question when I was planning my PCS (permanent change of station) transfer. I cost constructed an itinerary that would have me stopping in Hawaii and Arizona for some adventures and sight-seeing.

Flying east from Shenyang, I figured I could stop in Oahu, Hawaii to visit my best friend and roommate from college, the Egyptian. A beautiful girl with an even more beautiful soul, she's been there for me through everything. After living together for four years, we have come to understand each other and balance out one another's quirks. Thankfully for me, she's currently stationed in Oahu with the Army as an ob/gyn doctor and was willing to have me come visit and stay with her. Super stoked, I made Hawaii my first destination.

I had never been to Hawaii before, so I really didn't know what to expect. In four days on Oahu, I saw the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, the most pristine white sand beaches, the lushest green mountain cliffs, and the clearest blue water I've ever seen in my life.
Aside from the beauty of Oahu, the atmosphere on this island has been my favorite. Known as "the gathering place," Oahu is home to Hawaii's capital Honolulu and the largest population out of the islands (although the big island of Hawaii is actually the largest in size). I visited downtown Honolulu, Waikiki, Hawaii Kai, and Kailua, on the windward coast where the Egyptian lives. Each with its own character, with Waikiki full of luxury shopping malls and fancy dining for the tourists, Hawaii Kai with its sprawling homes in the shadow of the Koko Head Crater, and Kailua, a hidden gem of a town with hands-down the best beach in all of Hawaii.

Knowing I had a limited amount of time on the island, I tried my best to pack as much as possible into my days. Here is my general itinerary and some photos to go along with it:
• Waikiki highrise sunset
• Kailua Beach sunrise and 7km run
• Breakfast at Cinnamon's
• Tailgating at Hawaii Stadium
• Dinner at Korean BBQ
• Boydo-In Japanese Temple
• Sand Island sunset
• Pali Lookout
• Mokapu'u Lighthouse hike
• Coffee Bean distributor
• Waikiki park and Honolulu sunset
• Pillboxes Trail hike
• Kailua Beach relaxing

Boydo-In Temple

Mokapu'u Lighthouse

Waikiki Beach

Pillboxes Hike panorama

Following all of this, I was able to steal the Egyptian away from work to go to Kauai and Maui for a bit of island hopping.

Thanksgiving Memories

Thanksgiving seems like both yesterday and ages ago, but for good reason. Yesterday because the entire day was filled with such wonderful memories; ages ago because the last seven days have been out of this world. But more on that in the next post. Now, to reflect a bit. Thanksgiving was my last day in Shenyang. My first tour of two years, culminating in my favorite holiday with a handful of the people I love. I planned it that way, of course. ;)

When I was scheduling my departure in my TMTWO itinerary, I had the option of leaving 30 days +/- my original arrival date at post. Since I arrived in Shenyang on November 30, 2011, I could leave as early as 11/1 or as late as 12/30. Departure dates are a negotiation between the losing post (Shenyang) and the gaining post (Rome), but because I am not going directly to Rome and instead going to training, my departure was a bit more flexible. My official Italian training starts in February, and I was able to schedule in about a month of other training before that to fill up the month of January. But there was no way that I was going to stay at post an extra month and miss the holidays with my family. Plus, I had to fit in my congressionally-required 20 work days of home leave. So that backs us up a bit to late November. Since I was planning to make a few stops en route to Philadelphia, I was faced with the decision of spending Thanksgiving on the road in an airport or spending it at home in Shenyang with family. Naturally, I chose the latter option.

Having already packed out 99% of my stuff, I felt a bit incapacitated as the day approached. R & P had offered to host an intimate Thanksgiving meal with six of my closest colleagues/friends. But without my pots, pans, and baking ingredients, how was I supposed to contribute to this fabulous meal? Thankfully, everyone opened up their apartments and their hearts to me, allowing me to mix my leftover ingredients with their pantries' and assist with the menu planning. What would I do without these people?

True to form, R & P came up with a fabulous lavender-infused brine and rub for the turkey, and planned out a multi-course meal that absolutely was one of the best. Evenings like this are the essence of living in Shenyang. In a place where luxury is often hard to come by, we have to find our own ways of enjoying the good life. Simple ingredients are often unavailable, and intricate meals take a good deal of planning. I hoarded a can of cream of mushroom soup for 4 months in preparation for the green bean casserole I made for this meal, knowing when I saw it randomly in the supermarket in Beijing that I might not see it in Shenyang in the weeks to come. Can't find your trusty can of French's Fried Onions? Thanks to the internet, I made my own crunchy, pan-fried onions. Grocery store doesn't sell sweet potatoes? How about buying them from that guy on the corner down the street who roasts them from his own garden in the countryside… In Shenyang, you've gotta be creative. That's what I love about this place. I'm proud to have survived and live the sweet life with these people.

Around about noon, I walked over to the Crowne to start cooking with R & P. R greeted me with fresh-squeezed orange juice (because he's an OJ snob and loves pulp) and champagne, with which we toasted the BFF via Skype. Without her here, Shenyang Thanksgiving isn't fully complete. However, by videoconferencing her in, it felt a little better. I'll copy the full menu below, but my contributions were as follows: - green bean casserole with fried onions - rosemary roasted butternut squash with pine nuts - pumpkin spice frosted cupcakes

Thanks to everyone for letting me use their casserole pans, cookie sheets, cupcake tins, and pantry items; it was a great success because I had your help. Cooking my last meal in Shenyang with my best friends was a huge treat for me. Not only was I doing the thing I love best in the house (baking/cooking), but I was doing it with the people love and that made it super special.

Nomming our way through the afternoon, we team-efforted dinner to completion around 5:00pm and ate right on time. Everything, was absolutely delicious. Like I mentioned above that it takes a bit more preparation and planning to put on a great meal, the hard work makes it that much tastier. Whether its the recipes, the chefs, or that extra ingredient of hard work, the meal tasted divine. I had a moment of bliss as I sat there and looked around, the wasabi/pear-apple cranberry sauce dripping over my garlic mashed potatoes, listening to these wonderful people compliment and describe what they were eating in the most genuine of ways. Perfection!

After dinner, we had a dessert intermission with some hooting: guitars and ukeleles were brought out and the classics were sung. "Shenyang, Shenyang" and "Don't Stop Believing," the two local anthems. Although this time, there was a twist. Just as Ms. M had prepared a song for J upon his departure, she fashioned a song for me to that famous Journey song (lyrics below). Almost in tears, I couldn't imagine anything better, but of course that wasn't the end of it. P had one-upped herself in creating a departing scene with Photoshop to help commemorate my first tour and my time in Shenyang (picture below). Needless to say, I was floored. Perhaps the humor doesn't translate over the internet, but these two items mean more to me than words can describe. I'm so happy to have the opportunity to serve here, in this cold town, with these awesome people.

This year, I am thankful for so much. For my family, who is patiently waiting for my return home and with which I will get to spend the holidays. For my friends, old and new, who support me through this crazy life by being there for me in person and digitally. For my career, which has granted me endless opportunities to learn, travel, and explore this grand earth. And for my health, without which none of this is possible.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 1)

Itinerary

• Choeung Ek Killing Fields
• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
• Magnolia Restaurant (Khmer-Vietnamese food)
• Phsar Thmei - Central Market
• Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel
• Taqueria Corona (Mexican food)
• Riverside walk
• Blue Pumpkin (ice cream & bakery)
• Foreign Correspondents' Club

I woke up to the beautiful sound of birds. You don't hear chirping birds (or any wildlife, for that matter) in China. How refreshing. 

My morning run took me by the Royal Palace, where locals exercised outside the main gate or fed the morning pigeons. Typical Asian elements were there, like choreographed dancing to canned music, fresh fruit stands, people on their motorbikes heading to work. The route went around Koh Pich Island, a desolate Atlantic City-esque place that aims to be a center of luxury but in the daytime is a little sad. Across the Mekong River, you can see high rises that remind me of China's landscape. Perhaps they're built by Chinese real estate tycoons? Nevertheless, it was still nice to get out and stretch my legs after the flight.

Aside from the glorious temples of Cambodia located in Siem Reap, Cambodia has a dark history and is known for the Khmer Rouge regime and Pol Pot. In my opinion, a trip to Cambodia and Phnom Penh wouldn't be complete without a trip to the genocidal killing fields, at least to acknowledge this country's more recent grim history and pay respect to those that lost their lives. So the Choeung Ek Killing Fields site was my first stop of the day, located about 45 minutes via tuk-tuk outside of the city. 

Remembrance Bracelets at the Killing Fields

No two genocides are the "same" but the feeling I had at the Killing Fields is the same I had when I visited the Dachau Concentration Camp. When given a belief to hide behind, people are capable of inhuman things. The difference for Cambodia is that, to my knowledge, it's one of the few genocides where the regime attacked its own people. In any case, the site is well preserved, and the $2 audio
guide was very well made, I totally recommend it. Full of history and insight, the guide provided a narrative to the sights. Listening to a still-alive survivor of the 1978 events while standing beside a mass grave once filled with over 450 innocent bodies is very moving. This atrocity happened only 30 years ago, give or take, so the history for some is very much alive today. I am glad I had the opportunity to learn more about it from a first-hand perspective.

The Tuol Sleng facility is where the victims of the killing fields were first sent after they were arrested, to be tortured, interrogated, and held captive until they were transferred. An old school converted into the Security Prison 21 (S-21), Tuol Sleng's halls and cells are now bare except for barbed wire and metal beds with shackles. When Pol Pot's regime was finally overthrown, the resistance entered Tuol Sleng and freed the seven survivors, while photo-documenting those still chained to the beds who were not as fortunate. Large prints of these victims hang on the walls in the cells, left as they were in 1979. Haunting.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

::sigh:: After such a serious morning, I tried to lighten my afternoon at a local Khmer food restaurant for some authentic dishes (and delicious coffee), and then headed over to the art deco Central Market for some retail therapy. Like typical Asian markets, the wares were cheap and bargainable, and very varied (shoes, belts, bags, clothes, cosmetics, watches, jewelry, glasses, gifts, and oh yes, raw meat, live fish and flowers). I bought some scarves, postcards, and a pair of sandals. Heading back to the hotel after a long day, I thought about how much this country has rebounded after such a momentous past. 

I had dinner with A and his wife who both work here after a number of years serving in China. The Mexican restaurant we met at had some seriously delicious food and the conversations was great. Sharing China memories and comparisons to Cambodia made it easier for me to admire this country for its accomplishments and its charm. They gave me some insider recommendations for Phnom Penh and my onward trip to Siem Reap, and it was exciting to hear about their new lives settling in. It was a true pleasure to see them again in a new setting. Although I didn't really want to say goodbye, we parted ways after a tasty meal and will certainly stay in touch in the future given this small world. 

The evening ended up with a riverside walk along the Mekong, some delicious ice cream and petit madelines, and few local beers with some other expats at the FCC. Day 1, although heart-wrenching and slightly depressing, showed me just how beautiful, diverse, and impressive Cambodia truly is.

The view from the FCC

Books, Books, Books

This is perfection to me.

"Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's too dark to read." - Groucho Marx

"So many books, so little time." - Frank Zappa

"A room without books is like a body without a soul." - Marcus Cicero 

Before the BFF left post, she left her mark on our Consulate community in a big way. Not only on all of our hearts as a lovely person, a dear friend, and great leader, but also by establishing a healthy group of fellow book lovers. From what I've gathered, the Foreign Service is full of people who love to read. We spend a lot of our day reading (cables, memos, emails, news) that it would seem normal if all we wanted to do when we got home was anything BUT read. Yet, I think for many of us a good book can transport us somewhere else entirely (like our hometown, a familiar neighborhood, an adventure, a love story). At least for me, reading helps me cope with the feelings of homesickness, loneliness, the sense of being ungrounded, unsettled that occasionally come along with this career path. Reading also helps me learn about new cultures, future travel (and living) locations, and inspires me to continue my own adventures. I also love reading books suggested by other people: not only does it provide me with a glance at what's interesting to them, but it also shines light on what they think might be interesting to me. A great bonding tool for people to get to know one another.

Here in Shenyang, we've got two kinds of book clubs, both started by the BFF. The first book club I've ever participated in is comprised of other avid readers who work at the Consulate. We meet monthly to talk about a book we've picked amongst ourselves in advance. People originally submit their ideas for book club books, we present the list to everyone, tally a vote, and the top 5 or so become the next books to read for the coming months. Its a fairly democratic process, and I've often found myself voting for books that weren't the books I originally suggested. The book club has covered everything from War and Peace to Redshirts, 1Q84 and Cloud Atlas to Behind The Beautiful Forevers. The last book we read was The Book of Mormon Girl, by Joanna Brooks. As someone who knows very little about the world of Mormonism, I was very interested to read this one and hear from a few book clubbers who are Mormon themselves. By far one of the most interesting (and largest) discussions we've ever had, the last meeting was a perfect example of why this club is great for getting to know our colleagues. I learned so much and the conversation was refreshing, eye-opening, and very instructive. September's book is The Astronauts Wives Club and then later in November (my last Shenyang book club! ::tear::) I'll be excited to read The Telling Room: A Tale of Love, Betrayal, Revenge and the World's Greatest Piece of Cheese (which is totally my pick, evident because of the cheese, nom).

The second book club is a bit different. The Public Affairs Section often holds Thursday Night lectures on topics of interest, hosted by officers from the Consulate. My colleagues have presented lectures on sports, American sports, music, coffee, American universities, and much more. The audience is local Chinese students and English-language learners who want to practice listening and speaking. From one of these lectures started a book club for Chinese students to come in and discuss a book with an American officer. Well, just yesterday I hosted one of these on the book Farenheit 451, by Ray Bradbury. A controversial book even for some Americans, 451 talks about a dystopian society where firemen burn books instead of putting out flames. Books are banned because they make people envious of what they don't have (knowledge, power, money, rights). The government controls people through television and consumerism, and leaves little room for creativity and free thinking. Needless to say, in a country where censorship is dominant throughout the media, I was curious how the book would be received. The discussion was lively and all the readers had different thoughts about interpretation and implications of a book like this. The underlying tone seemed to be that Bradbury's tale is a cautionary one, and everyone seemed to agree that we as humans have a great responsibility with knowledge its power.

I'm curious to know what everyone is reading these days. Leave a comment below and tell me what I should read next!!

Great Wall Marathon 2013

Beijing at 3:00am still swarms with taxis, shuttling rowdy expats from bars in Sanlitun home to their apartments in the Guluo hutongs. So I didn't worry about finding a taxi at 2:50am, when the BFF and two more of my colleagues joined me on the way to the Beijing International Business Hotel. I had brought them with me on my second journey to the Huangyaguan section of the Great Wall. Whether I had accurately advertised running the Great Wall Marathon to them or swindled them into signing up for a crazy, difficult race was yet to be determined. But when we arrived at the hotel to meet the buses, my group of faithful followers was in high spirits and excited to get started. Seven joined me on the bus, while the CG and his wife met us at the start of the race. All together, Team Shenyang was made of NINE intrepid runners who would all face the Wall and its 5,164 steps of history.

The marathon weekend had started the day prior, when a group of us departed the 'Yang by train and made our way to Beijing. Thanks to the BFF's incredible amount of hotel points, I shared a room with her at the Crowne Plaza Chaoyang U-Town. To whittle away the time before we had to head to an early bed (given the early start!), we made our way over to Sanlitun to shop and eat. We stopped at the Bookworm, a real book store, to quench our thirst for the written word in physical form. Watching the two of them at home among the many pages was like watching two kids come home to the welcoming arms of their parents. Nothing is more normal than those two enjoying a good book. So glad we got to stop there. After a tasty Persian meal at Rumi, we caught the Metro home and made our way to bed.

So there we were, riding the early morning bus to the base of the Great Wall in heightened anticipation of what's to come. I was feeling very nervous. I felt I hadn't prepared enough this time around. Last year, I had gotten to about 11-12 miles in my long training runs. I had logged significantly more miles in total, as well. This year, I had been focusing much more on strength training, with a concerted effort to improve my leg strength and glute strength. My mileage was much lower and I had fewer opportunities to get outside due to both a busier schedule and poorer air quality. With all that on my mind (plus the stress of hoping everyone was having a good time), I didn't really notice that all of a sudden I was at the start line and we were running.

The course is difficult. The first 3km are uphill, along the mountain access road that leads to the Great Wall parking lot and entrance. Very early on, I lost A among the faster runners. "Godspeed and good luck!" I called out to him as he passed me out of the entryway. As I climbed the hill, I felt a difference from last year. This wasn't so tough, these hills seemed steeper last year. Sooner rather than later, I got to the top of the hill and made my way to the Wall. The next 3km are up and down the steps of the Wall. After the heavy incline, the steps actually helped loosen my calves. Now it was my quads and glutes on fire. Jog jog jog, and wait; jog jog jog, and wait. That's the tempo on the wall because of the bottlenecks. It's not a particularly wide section of the wall, so people are forced to take their time down the stairs as they come. But eventually I rounded the final corner of the wall and saw the Yin Yang Square below me. Halfway there, I thought, and I don't event feel tired?! This feels great!

By the time I made my way through the Square and onward to the village, I had found my true running stride and I was truckin'. The asphalt road to the village has an ever so slight downgrade, so I let the wind push me and gravity pull me through to the village entrance. Right around the time I was stopping at drink station 9 to get my snacks, I saw A coming toward me, having just finished the village himself. "Almost there!" Seeing him come through that connection gave me inspiration to keep going, along with the realization I knew my legs were solid. I had such better muscle strength than this time last year. I remember the agony of running the back stretch and feeling the strain in my legs and knees as I struggled to finish. This year, I kept a steady pace, cruised to my music, and just let my feet go. And go they did!

Finishing 17 minutes faster than last year, I made it through the finish line with more energy, more strength, and more emotion than last year. What a great feeling! And guess who was there to see me cross? Everyone who had finished already from my group! A cheering squad of colleagues and a round of hugs. Nothing could have been better.

I want to take a minute to thank everyone who came to participate in Team Shenyang this year. Your finishing stories were amazing to hear and I'm so happy to have been able to share this wonderful experience with you. I'm proud that you were able to trust me and believe in yourselves that you could do it too! The Great Wall Marathon is now ours and for once, when we say "Shenyang wins again!" we really did win!! Bravo!

Oh, it's nothing special. Just my heart.

Foreign service life can be tough.

Aside from all the obvious stresses of living away from "home," family, and friends in an environment that is not your native land, there are some very personal stresses that come along with FS life.

Shenyang is my first tour and I haven't really experienced a full transfer season yet. Last summer cycle, I was home in Philadelphia on my first R&R and didn't have to witness the teary good-byes of the departing officers. Now, after a year and half at post, people who have become the foundation of my daily life are planning to leave. And it is truly leaving me sad.

I know that the Foreign Service is the right decision for me. The work, the life, the travel, the extraordinary people. But this having your best friends leave as soon as you get close to them thing is something I'm never going to get used to. I suppose if I got used to it, I would be emotionless, and that would be a bad thing. However, as I'm coming to realize day by day, I am feeling the pain of loss quite deeply.

My coworkers in Shenyang are more than just people I see in the office. They are my friends, there to share wonderful memories with. They are my floor mates, there to hang out and play MarioKart with. They are my dinner companions, to cook, drink, and laugh with over good food. They are my travel buddies, exploring the world with me one visa stamp at a time. They are my confidants, to lend an ear when I'm filled with questions. They are my mentors, providing sage advice to a newbie with a black passport. They have become an indispensable part of my being. And especially of my being happy.

The community at the Consulate is small, and therefore it lends itself to these homegrown, genuine relationships building out of necessity. The cold, long winter inspires people to be creative in finding fun, and over time our people have grown very close. I have heard other FS officers mention that you can never beat your first post. I say, amen to that. I can't imagine that I could make such great friends at every post I travel to. And if I do, then this saying goodbye thing is going to get old. Real fast.

Wazigou - A trip to the village

China is a great, big country. Like America, it is a country with a great deal of geological diversity, from the far western dry deserts to the hot and humid southern coast, to the northern steppes and the rocky eastern coasts. Although most people choose to travel outside of the country to regain one's inner peace, visiting China's non-cities can also be rejuvenating and extremely adventurous. Once you get there.

This weekend, a group of us from the Consulate decided to take a two-hour road trip to a small village called Wazigou 瓦子勾, known for its rural home stays 农家院. The BFF & husband, along with J & J had been there before, so this was a return trip to the countryside for them. For the rest of us, this was our first experience in touring the Dongbei's rural homes and sleeping on a kang.

Despite our best efforts of getting out of Shenyang at a reasonable hour, heavy traffic, crazy construction, and absurd detours prevented our anticipated timely arrival in Wazigou. However, once we finally got onto the highway, it was smooth sailing to the village. Driving in China's cities can be extremely frustrating; on the other hand, driving on the highways is actually pleasant since most of them are newly built and empty of traffic. The trouble lies in the maps that advertise highways before they're actually finished, which is often the case in China. Needless to say, it's always an adventure driving anywhere outside city limits.

Our patient driver and co-pilot

On our way, the boys got hungry, so we stopped at the first establishment we saw off the highway that offered food. After inspecting the kitchen's stocked ingredients and negotiating with the cook, two guys in the group ordered us a feast! I'm not the most adventurous eater, so naturally I'm always skeptical when trying out new places. But these guys knew what they were doing and every dish was quite tasty.

Our feast!

After lunch and a bit more driving, we made our way to our home for a night. For those who aren't aware, a rural home stay normally involves a villager family opening their homes to guests (normally rich Chinese or foreigners like us) in a bed-and-breakfast style. The Dongbei-style home stay also includes sleeping on a kang, basically a stone slab bed that's heated from within. In the winter months, kangs seem like a brilliant idea. Toasty beds covered in blankets and pillows to keep you warm. But without all the blankets and pillows to soften the hard concrete? I was skeptically looking forward to seeing what all the hoopla was about.

Our home stay was nothing fancy (most things in China aren't), but provided a good respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. We settled into the second floor balcony overlooking the countryside, drank some beers, and read a bit. The rain came in and out for a good hour, but once it cleared up slightly, we headed down to the reservoir geared up with a baseball and football, fishing pole, and of course, more beer. I wish I had been able to take some photos of the beautiful lake, but the rain came back once or twice and would have been bad for the camera. Once the rain passed, the skies opened up and the sun heartily warmed us. By the second hour, the stresses of Shenyang had left us behind and we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves.

The gang's all here!

Dinner was being served at 7:00, so we headed back in anticipation of our special order. While the home stay did provide regular dishes, we had also called in advance and specifically ordered a whole roasted lamb for our group. While the sun set behind the mountains and provided a beautiful ending to our day, everyone was looking forward to dinner. When it finally arrived, it was go-time!

They named her Mary. 

What's the best way to end a night in a nongjiayuan? With a hootenanny, of course!

Shenyang's hoot, coming to you live from Wazigou

We followed that with a bit of a stroll "downtown" to serenade the neighbors, meet the locals, and enjoy the stars. A great night of fun, lots of laughs, and GREAT company. Couldn't have been a better weekend.

After a rough night of sleep on the kang (not very comfortable, by the way), the BFF, A & I laced up and went for a run around the reservoir. Again, I wish I had brought my phone to take pictures, but it was nice to be unplugged and able to unwind. Worked our way up some killer hills, and got a good leg workout in. This was the last long run in preparation for next weekend's activities, and so the taper begins.

Post-run breakfast was perfect, with everyone pitching in some goodies: freshly roasted coffee from R, delicious raisin scones from M, spicy & fragrant tea from the BFF, and some brie & crackers to top it all off. All in all, the trip out to the village couldn't have been any better. It's experiences like this that remind me why I love the foreign service and why I am so lucky to be among such amazing people friends.

Wazigou 2013 -- don't stop believing.

Burma Day 1: Shenyang - Seoul - Yangon

Note: I wrote these next few entries as I traveled through Burma, but I have taken the liberty to go back and edit them minimally to add details and pictures. 

Getting out of Chinese airspace is such a great feeling. Even stepping on the Korean Airline flight was a relief: courteous Korean airline stewards and tasty Korean airline food. The little things make it worth it. I had heard such great things about Incheon International Airport that I was very much looking forward to it. Everyone was right! The concourse is so easy to navigate and the design is very modern and clean. 

Happy with my bibimbap, of course!

R, A, and I ate at the food court while we waited for our respective flights. R & I agreed, though, that out of everyone traveling during the Chinese New Year, our destination was the coolest. We're going to BURMA! Much excitement was had just saying that simple sentence over and over.

As R & I boarded the flight to Yangon, we noticed that we were at the lower end of the age spectrum traveling. Aside from a youth-group mission trip, he and I seemed like the youngest travelers on the flight. This makes sense though, when you think about it. Although Burma is opening up, there are still a good deal of hoops we had to jump through to get there (procuring visas at the Myanmar Embassy in Beijing; fully pre-paying hotel arrangements, domestic flights, and travel arrangers in cash; finding crisp, new, and pristine US dollar bills, to name a few). Traveling to Burma is not for your typical southeast Asian backpacker. At least, not yet. 

I never order alcohol when flying. It feels rouge to me to drink when contained in such a small space. And it seems like a luxury on an airplane. But I felt like a glass of white wine, to celebrate the accomplishment of getting through a stressful few weeks and making it on the plane to Burma. The waitress asked what R & I would like to drink, we asked for wine. "Of course!" she chirped, "You can have wine WHENEVER you like!" her voice reaching its highest pitch on the 'when,' accompanied by a jazz-hands motion that indicated lots of sparkle and happiness. R & I looked at each other and giggled. This was going to be an ah-may-zing journey.

We're really going to Burma!

Upon landing in Burma, R and I found ourselves needing to haggle for a taxi and I find myself instantly trusting any man in a skirt. Something about the men wearing longyi here make them seem honest. The taxi drivers could very well cheat me out of $10, but because they're wearing a skirt, I think I'm okay with it. 

Burmese father in longyi

If you can imagine, the drivers are even crazier than Chinese drivers, going speeds of 90+ on curvy, hilly streets. On our way from the airport to downtown Yangon, our taxi's roof sign fell off and smashed against the window, scaring the living daylights out of R and me. But no worries, life just goes on here. At a seemingly pleasant yet eager pace. Everyone smiles and wants to chat. The eagerness comes from their desire to please, I think. And maybe their desire to grasp onto the growth that they're experiencing. 

I digress. 

At least the roads are wide and relatively low in traffic. Though I estimate that during the day the traffic increases significantly. Some cars have the steering on the right, some on the left. It's almost as if all the world's cars have come here to live out their last days as Burmese taxis. 

On the ride from the airport to the downtown, I had a quick chance to see the scenery. It surely is tropical here, with the roads lined in palm trees, and the night full of sounds of bugs and birds living in the heat. As far as I can tell, the roads in the city are well-kept and easy to navigate. Signs are mostly in Burmese, with some English/romanized translation.

In my hotel room, I'm happy to have wifi, but it almost feels like I'm cheating. Before I left, all the research I had done told me that there would be little to no connectivity anywhere. But actually, the internet is free and faster than in China. Who knew the digital infrastructure would have changed in such a short amount of time. I sense the rest of Burma will be like this, surprises around the corner everywhere.

Nevertheless, I am tired and planning to get up early to see the Sule Pagoda, which is viewable from my room's window. 

Sule Pagoda from my window in daytime

Until then!

December

The holidays have begun.

So has the season of baking, celebrating, and partying. I think in the past two weeks, the group has had a handful of get-togethers. I have made three batches of cookies (chocolate chip, heath bar, and brownie). Last night was R's birthday and I made wonton chicken cups. It's that time.

The holidays can be a hard time to be away from home. I hit my one-year at Post two weeks ago and it is amazing how fast time flies. Today we were decorating the CGR for the Christmas party next week, and I kept saying, "Last year we had the kids do this..." and "When we had the party last year..." I couldn't believe that I was one of the longest-standing people at post when in that group of people. A resident Shenyang expert? Maybe.

As I mentioned last year, the season is a great time to be in a small community like ours. Nothing brings people together like being away from our families. To be honest, I've created a family of sorts here among my friends. I feel such a tight connection with the people here that I can't imagine leaving in one year. True, many of the people here now will already have departed post, but there will be the people who have just recently arrived that I will have to say goodbye to. I can't imagine the tears!

~
Last weekend was completely splendid. Saturday I spent at the gym and around the apartment during the day, putting together some things for Christmas gifts. In the evening, I joined a group of people from the Consulate at a new Indian restaurant opening. Good restaurants in Shenyang are few, and when we find favorites, it's great to give them our business. Pakwaan, an Indian restaurant that we often order from for lunch, opened a new shop across from the consulate district (coincidence? Me thinks not). They had their opening last Saturday night and it was a great success. I guarantee that we'll be heading there for lunch more often now.

Sunday was a day of relaxing. In the morning, A and I went over the BFF's to make breakfast (bacon and pancakes, in that order) and watch the Pacquiao/Marquez fight together with the husband and an out-of-town guest. I'm not a fan of boxing (typically) and I wasn't really looking forward to the fight. But boy -- was it an interesting match!! What athletes!! What muscle structure!! What a knockout!! With a broken nose, Marquez landed a TKO punch against Pacquiao in the 5th Round that ended the match just as Pacquiao was heating up. Certainly brutal and hard to watch, but there was an impressive show of athleticism that I was not expecting.

After a nap and a shower, we headed back over to the BFF's for a cocktail party. The theme was "Elegant." I know how to do elegant. After channeling Holly Golightly, I headed over to enjoy some homemade cocktails, courtesy of their guest from London's mixology skillz. On the menu: ginger-infused martinis, lemongrass gin and tonic, a Chinese-style negroni, and more. It was a brilliant evening. There was brie. There was dancing. It was wonderful.

This weekend, we will have another get-together at the BFF's: a brustilli baking party. I plan on making a batch of my family's traditional People Puppy Chow (that I will try my hardest not to eat in one sitting). Sunday will be a snickerdoodle baking party at my place and then early in the week is the Consulate Christmas party. Time flies! It's 13 days until Christmas and I hope my presents get home in time for everyone to open them. I'm slowly accumulating a pile under my tree to open via Skype with my family. Plans are in the works for Christmas eve and Christmas day parties. What a season to be surrounded by friends who are basically family. In this holiday season, I don't have anything to complain about. My only wish is that I could spend it with my real family too, and then it would be the best of both worlds. <3

Thanksgiving, etc.

One year ago on Thanksgiving (or a week before due to timing), I spent the day with the people I love most. As is annual tradition, Mom-Mom Brosious hosted a gathering at her house in NJ. The difference was that this was the last Thanksgiving I'd have in the US. So I invited all my closest friends to join as well. We celebrated the spirit of the season together, eating good food, cookies, and lots of pie. I remember leaving Mom-Mom's that night with tears in my eyes, knowing that it would be a long time before I saw all of these people again. The night continued late in Willow Grove with the Ninja Crew and before I knew it, midnight had come and it was time to say good-bye. A week later and I was on a plane to China.

Holidays abroad always have the potential to be lonely and depressing. But thankfully, this year was warm and fuzzy like any Thanksgiving ought to be.

The BFF and I had planned to go running by the river on Thanksgiving morning, but unfortunately, when we woke the sky was filled with smog/haze. Instead, I packed a bag and headed over to the Crowne to join her at the gym. We did a solid, easy 5K and headed upstairs to clean up. "Do you want pumpkin muffins?" she asked as I took my shoes off. Um, it's Thanksgiving -- who doesn't want pumpkin muffins? We spent the rest of the morning knitting, chatting, and relaxing, preparing ourselves mentally for the afternoon's activities.

N has an annual bowling tradition in his family, where each year everyone bowls together (or apart) and sends in their scores to see who will win the coveted trophy. We had all bowled in Shenyang before, so we were mostly prepared for the activities ahead. A group of six of us walked over to the alley to lend our support to N's family tradition.

Looks fancy, huh?

The alley is dank and cold, and the decor looks as if it had been plucked out of a bowling alley in Texas from the 1980s. The lanes worked just as well, and we had to switch half-way through because our gates wouldn't work. But, despite all the hardships, N overcame adversity to bowl a 175. My first run was awful (I suck at bowling) and I improved slightly in the second round to finish with a 96.

Eating early is normal on Thanksgiving, so five of us headed over to a Beijing-style restaurant close to Taiyuan Jie, the shopping street where I live. Turkey dinner had been devoured last weekend at the block party, so we decided instead on some traditional Beijing duck 北京烤鸭 Beijing kaoya. For those who have never had this style of duck before, I'm truly sorry for you. You have not had a chance to enjoy the delicious, juicy, fatty goodness of crisp duck skin and succulent duck meat, wrapped in a light and fluffy crepe-like pancake with savory dipping sauce. It's absolutely divine. And certainly a respectable Thanksgiving-dinner meal. To be honest, I actually preferred it to turkey (but don't tell anyone I said that!).

After eating my weight in duck, I headed back to the BFF's to pack up my knitting and clothes, and then hurried my way back to my apartment in the cold. N had asked to check out my movie collection and I suggested we watch a movie in the process. S and B joined us minutes after we started Argo, a recently-released film about the 1980 secret operation to extract six US diplomats out of Iran during the hostage crisis. I promise we don't always watch movies about ourselves, but I had been dying to watch this one because it's been getting good reviews. Rightfully so, the movie was done well and Ben Affleck underacted perfectly (p.s. something about his beard made him super attractive in this movie... or maybe his calm-cool-collectedness). I would suggest the movie to anyone, not just people interested in the Iranian conflict or diplomacy, but it also has a lot of humor and interesting movie-making info in it. 

Needless to say, Thanksgiving day was filled with lots of people, fun, and good food, which in my books is the perfect recipe for happiness. This year, I'm thankful for a few important things:

• The friends who have become my family abroad -- without them, Shenyang would be a boring, cold place to live
• The opportunity to live the FS life -- the opportunities seem endless and the doors keep opening
• The safety of my current location -- especially when looking around at my colleagues serving in the Maghreb region. My prayers go out to all of those who currently live in the hotspots of the world -- may you be safe and sound during this holiday season.

First (Annual?) Shenyang Pre-Thanksgiving Block Party and Pie Contest

Arriving last year around the holidays, I enjoyed the many parties and gatherings at Post that allowed me to interact with my colleagues (soon-to-be friends) on a personal/social level. That season has official begun again.

This weekend, the citizens of the 17th floor hosted the First (Annual?) Pre-Thanksgiving Block Party and Pie Contest. Over 50 people were in attendance, crowding the halls of the shabbily decorated Crowne Plaza apartments. Despite the ugly carpets and grandmothery decor, the mood was lively and wholesome, with tons of food to boot.

I made three dishes, two from recipes of Mom-Mom Brosious (courtesy of the family cookbook): the traditional green bean casserole with French's french fried onions and Cambell's cream of mushroom soup; the Brosious-style sweet potato casserole with marshmallows and (hidden) pineapple flavor; and a from-scratch recipe of pigs in blankets from handmade dough. Since they were based on tried and true classics, I knew they would turn out okay. I mean -- how can you go wrong with brown sugar, sweet potatoes, and butter topped with marshmallows?

Ready for topping and baking

Among the other dishes present were delicious traditional must-haves like stuffing, mashed potatoes, potatoes au gratin, and of course turkey! We had three people brine turkeys for the event and each one of them was divine in its own way. My favorite was the beer brine. Yum!

You can never have enough potatoes

In addition to the dinner feast, the BFF organized an official pie contest. This contest was serious, folks. Not only was their an engraved glass trophy for the winning Pie Master, but on competition day, my boss (one of the 5 judges) unveiled his scoring scheme, complete with pre-printed score cards that rated the pies on density, composition, appearance, and "mouthfeel." These guys meant business.

The contestants:
1. Pecan Pie A
2. Blueberry Pie
3. Pecan Pie B
4. Apple Pie
5. Pumpkin Pie
6. Coconut Creme Pie

The full pie spread, including those not up for competition

 Needless to say, it was a night of epic eating proportions. Shenyang, you did not disappoint!
After eating, some of the musically-inclined participated in what others have referred to as a hootenanny. Someone might have even fashioned together a washtub-bass. I might have lent my vocals to a song or to, but others had much better pitch than I.

"I think I'm turning Japanese" was actually one of the songs we sang

After all was said and done in the hallways, we retired to the BFF's apartment to finished off some of the mulled cider wine and relax in peace. As I said on FB, thanks to all for great memories and a feast-well-done!

Happy New Year - American Version!

Aside from it being New Year's Eve this weekend, my days have been overall relaxing and uneventful (a good thing). I have gotten into the habit of reading nightly, which helps keep my thoughts from straying to all the people, places, and things I miss from home. I've finished three books in the last five days, a feat even I am proud of. Since I've graduated from Villanova, I have had this love-hate relationship with reading for pleasure. I think now that I'm so far away, I've gotten over that and started to love books again. The ease of the iPad, the Nook app, and the gift certificates for downloading books has increased my desire to read dramatically, along with many good suggestions for titles that have come my way. Oh, and the Shenyang Book Club. That, too, would encourage my reading. :P

I spent New Year's Eve partying with the BFF (my fellow OMS), her husband, and a number of other friends from the Consulate. Everyone brought over a bottle of wine or champagne, and we toasted the New Year in style. After some dancing, Rock Band, and chatting, I called the night as it was and headed back to my apartment to sleep away most of Sunday. The combination of a skimpy pre-party meal and super-sweet Chinese champagne probably wasn't the best, but no one said life lessons stop after you leave college, right?

I had fully recuperated by Monday and spent the early part of the day with BFF and the husband again, walking around town to see some parks and recreation, specifically Zhong Shan Gong Yuan (中山公园 - middle mountain park) and the small but delightful ice sculpture garden they had erected there. Nothing in comparison to Harbin, the home of the internationally-recognized Ice & Snow Festival, but enough to put smiles on our faces. The best decision of the day? To ride the ice luge on inflatable tubes. For about $1.50, we treked up a mini-mountain made of ice cubes and slid our way down. My happiness couldn't have been greater!

As I said before, nothing spectacular happened, no huge fireworks ceremonies, no crazy nights on the town. Really, it's the casual atmosphere that I'm learning to enjoy as I get more comfortable in Shenyang. I remind myself daily that a) it could be colder b) it will get warmer c) the people make all the difference. I won't lie and say that I don't miss everyone from home IMMENSELY, but I'm getting more in tune with my surroundings. Eating enough food is still a challenge, but compared to the last time I was in China, my range of food options has improved dramatically beyond bananas and pb&j. I have a lot of things planned: cooking classes, grocery shopping with locals, walking excursions town, Chinese lessons; that should help me feel more connected to this place I'm calling home. I'm looking forward to it all!

Until next time.

The Busy RSO Shop

My job as an OMS in the RSO Shop can be pretty busy from time to time. Like my other jobs in the past, the busy-ness comes in overwhelming waves and droughts. I enjoy the variety of tasks I do and the opportunities they bring.

Today has been no different, although I'm learning by trial through most of the new assignments. We received a new employee today in the Information Management section, so I'm no longer the newest kid on the block. I feel the most connected with H in terms of experiencing Shenyang with new eyes, ears, and nose; however, that's about as far as our similarities go. I have only been here fewer than 30 days, and already I feel like I have some insight on the things to see, places to go, and stuff to know. I wonder if when I arrived everyone else felt the same, imparting their knowledge through little tidbits of conversation mixed in with the regular introductory greetings and pleasantries.

Another thing I've realized about arriving when I did: although the winter season in Shenyang is harsh, I think it is the perfect time to arrive at post. My reasoning is based on the overwhelming sense of community developed during the holidays. Imagine 25 or so Americans in a cold, sometimes dreary city located on the other side of the globe, all wishing they were back home with family. In a country where Christmas is no more than a shopping holiday, these brave souls come together to celebrate with traditions that remind them of their loved ones and cherished memories. As a new person, I felt so welcome during this time, especially because everyone else is yearning for the sense of community that a new person desires when arriving in a foreign place. Not only that, but the holiday is the time of parties and festivities. The first few weeks I was in Shenyang, I attended a party or two a week and had a great opportunity to meet everyone while they were in jolly spirits.

I've been enjoying post so far, and I'm looking forward to being the tour guide for all the brave souls who come from America to visit this little place I'll be calling home. It's not Philadelphia, the home of all homes, but it will do for the next two years.

Back on the Path

First post in a while, finally feel settled enough to comment on life in China.

Shenyang is an amazing little city, and although it's considered a second-tier city in China standards, it's massive in its scope and size. I've explored only parts of the city so far, but I do feel that I have a better understanding of its ins and outs. After two years, I hope to be a master!

Today was my third time to the Wu'Ai Market 无爱市场, a very successful shopping trip. Wu'Ai works like any wholesale market in China, where goods are cheap and must be bargained for. I went with a few items in mind (I had actually made a list to keep myself on track) and got most of them. The two biggest purchases were sturdy brown boots and a warm mid-length coat. The boots were my first purchase of the day, when my bargaining skills were not up to par. I'm sure I could have gotten them for cheaper, but I'm pretty satisfied with a pair of leather riding boots, lined with fur, for about 168元 (~26US$). The coat was my last purchase, and by that time, I had perfected my pout and my confidence in expressing my opinion (tai gui le!). The coat is tan wool, and it has a beautiful fur trim around the neck. The size cracked me up (the ladies fit me in an XXXL) but at least I got it at a huge discount for 190元 (~30US$). Pictures soon to come.

I met the BFF & the husband at Zhong Jie 中街, another shopping avenue east of the market for some hearty dumplings at Laobian Jiaozi Guan 老边饺子馆. Unfortunately, my Chinese speaking skills were not up to par, and we started off pretty rough with ordering some gelatinous items (which we later learned was "frozen skin" -- yum!). But in the end, the BFF successfully ordered us three kinds of jiaozi: beef, pork with celery?, pork with parsley. Scrumptious! I do think dumplings will be the end of me, or at least the end of my figure!

Will try to keep updating daily. Here's for my new year's resolution!