A Dongbei Halloween

Life has been crazy for me these last two months. October was a WHIRLWIND and as November starts, I have entered my LAST MONTH in Shenyang. Who could believe it? Certainly not me.

Autumn is my favorite season, both at home and in Shenyang. Thankfully, I had the opportunity to spend a bit of time in both, for better or worse. After a great trip to Changbaishan in September, I had a quick trip back to PA to spend time with my family. Upon returning, I jetsetted off to Cambodia for absolutely the best trip of my life to date. The pictures don't do the country justice, but I'd go back in a heartbeat for another chance to explore that lush, green jungle. After Cambodia, the ball really started rolling at the Consulate and work was crazy.

With a new batch of colleagues and friends, the pace and the tone of the Consulate has changed completely. And naturally so. I enjoy seeing the difference in how people work, and as R so eloquently put it one day, it shows that everyone can succeed in the Foreign Service. Whether you are outgoing and charismatic, introverted and focused, or somewhere in between, I have seen people of all categories get to the top levels of the FS and come out on top. I like that kind of flexibility and the promise that I can fit in somewhere too.

To celebrate this wonderful season of new beginnings and things to be thankful for, M hosted the most fabulous Monster Mash and Birthday Bash ever. I enjoyed prepping for this Halloween party immensely. At the last minute, I changed my costume for this particular event. With an idea in mind, I went all out after being inspired by a local Dongbeiren. For those of you who don't know, I live in the part of China known as the Dongbei 东北 which means literally east north, or northeastern China. Dongbeiren, or dongbei people, are a hearty breed of Chinese with some fashion sense that could be described as... all or nothing.

Whether it is glittery and rhinestoned skull t-shirts, studded and spiked platform chunky boots, 1/2" thick nude tights with leather shorts, or copious amounts of cat print, anything goes as long as it's all out (bonus points for matching with your significant other). Once I knew what I had in mind, I couldn't stop seeing potential outfit essentials everywhere. I was shocked at every corner because I wanted to buy just ONE MORE THING to make an essential set. As the party drew near, I had finally assembled the entire outfit, much to my satisfaction.

2D and 3D Dongbei Cat Print!!!

From the shoes to the glasses and contact lenses, everything I wore on Halloween was cat print. Everything. Even my fuzzy, gem bedazzled, glittery purse. The problem? When I went to the club, no one knew I was in costume!!! Oh China! Shenyang wins again!!

Un-ironic local Dongbeiren at the club

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...

Nightlife & Bars in Shenyang

So it's Friday night in the middle of summer and you're looking for a place to go. What are your choices? Well, in Shenyang the options are limited, but here's a few that we have found to be solid options when the weather is nice. This list is by no means exclusive or exhaustive, and if you have any other suggestions, feel free to list them in the comments section. Party on!

Black Sugar Restaurant & Bar - Nan Nanning Jie at Bei'Er Ma Lu
Although right now the road outside Black Sugar is all torn up due to construction, I have found the atmosphere to be nice here. There is an outdoor deck with some tables and chairs; inside, there are two floors, the main first floor and a more private second floor. The bar has a handful of beers on tap and their mixed drinks aren't weak. The restaurant offers Western fare, from soups and salads to pasta, burritos, steak or hamburger.  Service is attentive and very often there will be a soccer game on their projection screen. Good for dinner and a drink.

Mo Mo Coffee House (formerly 97 Club) - Zhongshan Lu at Zhongshan Square's SW corner
Sitting under Mao's southwesterly gaze, this indoor-outdoor cafe is very pleasant for its ambiance. Outdoor tables, flowers, and fences with string lights on them make for a place to sit in the summer for a beer or drink after a long night. In Shenyang, there aren't many places where you can sit outside and have a drink. If you don't mind the mosquitos or spiders, this places is pretty chill. They don't have everything they list on the menu, so don't come expecting much. But if you want a place to hang out and catch a beer while enjoying the *air, this place is pretty good. (*good air quality not guaranteed).

Stroller's Bar - Wu Jing Jie and Shi Wei Lu on the SW corner
The inside of this corner joint is filled with random German paraphernalia and rock posters from the '80s, while the bartenders walk around in all black metal band t-shirts (probably also from the '80s). A decent selection of bottled import beers makes this place good for a drink. The snack food is also pretty reliable, with the french fries, hamburger, and "tartilla" being consistently delicious with a cold Belgian beer. It's a pretty small place and can get crowded/smoky if there are lots of locals; but if you're there around 6:00pm any weekday it's still pretty quiet. Good for a drink or two on your way home.

Buddha Bar - Bin He Lu just east of the Kempinski Hotel
Jazz lounge atmosphere tucked away into an unpretentious store front. The beer list is small, but the mixed drinks are well-made and reasonably priced. On the few occasions I've been here, a solo female vocalist was singing cover songs and popular hits, which added to the nice atmosphere.  The first floor is lofty and well-spaced, and I think there's a second floor with private rooms. No food available except for the regular popcorn and nuts, but the drinks will keep you occupied well enough. Good for hanging out to chat and have a drink.

The Lobby Bar - The Grand Hyatt, 25th Floor, Wenyi Lu before Qingnian Da Jie
Shenyang's swankiest and newest bar with a phenomenal view of the city. Facing out to the TV tower, the bar is located on the 25th floor of the Hyatt and is a step above every other drinking establishment in the city. Catering to its hotel guests, the Lobby Bar offers specialty cocktails alongside a pricey beer/wine list. I've visited the bar once and will definitely be going back after work sometime soon. The mojito and cosmopolitans were both delicious and well-made. Would be great for a cocktail party.

O'Reilly's Bar - Liu Wei Lu off Bei San Jin Jie
A low-key Irish bar with an international clientele. The drinks here are so-so and the beers run about average. I've only eaten the kitchen's food once (the menu is mostly Mexican food?), but it was good for Shenyang. Occasionally there is live music here, with local bands or singers performing alongside accompaniment. A good option for St. Patrick's Day, but otherwise there are better places to go.

Green Mile/NYPD Pizza - small alley on the east side of Bei San Jing Jie, south of Shi Fu Da Lu
Hands down the best pizza in Shenyang comes out of the kitchen at the Green Mile Bar. The Green Mile is a huge draw for both Chinese and foreigners alike, and this place is packed on weeknights after 6 and certainly on weekends as well. Get a VIP card and go during happy hour to get buy-one-get-one-half-off for certain beers and drinks. While you're there, you might as well get yourself a pizza too. 10+ options to choose from, and I can tell you they all taste great. If you're coming with a big group, call in advance for a table or you might be waiting a while for a seat.

Lenore's - small alley on the east side of San Jing Jie, south of Shi San Wei Lu
Located just off the main street of 三经街, Lenore's has cheap beer and a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Options to sit inside in the air conditioning with TVs playing soccer, or to sit outside along the alleyway. Mixed drinks tend to be weak, but occasionally they have specials that are mixed well. Hookahs also available here, with a number of different flavors. A good place to have some beers before moving on to Party 98 up the street.

SoHo - Nan Nanning Jie, just south of Zhongshan Lu
Curiously, I don't know if this is part of the SoHo chain in China, but this characteristically Chinese bar/club is located just around the corner from Mo Mo. I stumbled in here with friends one night on our way home and found it to be pretty interesting. Drinks are reasonably priced, but the ambiance is a bit awkward. There is a stage for the DJ and singer, and a catwalk where there is performance dancing. Music trended towards nondescript Chinese house music, but occasionally Western songs came on. Not my first choice for going out, but it's close to downtown.

Party 98 - San Jing Jie, just north of Shi San Wei Lu
A typical Chinese club at its finest, Party 98 offers both live music (Western on the first floor, Chinese on the second floor) and DJ mixes, complete with a hydraulic dance floor. Thursdays are ladies night and Fridays/Saturdays there are great drink specials (15RMB for mixed drinks). A good selection of drinks to choose from and of course you can always order the fruit plate for your table. My recommendation is to go with a group and plan to people watch before getting on the dance floor yourself and rockin' out to some good jams.

Pure Color - Feng Tian Jie, north of Shi Fu Da Lu
Shenyang's best (and only) international dance club. The live band is awesome and they get the crowd pumping. In between their sets, the DJ plays top 40 tracks (erring on the side of last year's top 40, though). Beer is decently-priced and your standard mixed drinks are typically buy-one-get-one-free. You'll see a good amount of expats here, although the music's so loud you won't really be able to start a conversation with them. Just dance, that's what Pure Color is good for. All in all, a great place to end the night.