Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 3)

Itinerary

• Crêpe Mania - OPEN!
• Russian Market
• Wat Phnom
• Brown's Coffee Riverside
• Airport transfer to Siem Reap

Sleeping in was a great idea. The morning view from my canopy bed was stunning, with blue skies and temples. ::awe:: So beautiful and serene.

They don't call it the Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel for no reason

I retried going to Crêpe Mania and it was definitely worth going back. The owner said that they were doing a photo shoot the day before for a new menu, so I was glad to have the chance. First, great music soundtrack. I had to keep pulling out my phone to Shazam songs I liked but hadn't heard before. Yay for new mellow music!

My delicious breakfast

Second, what IS it with Phnom Penh and all the good food?? So tasty I couldn't get enough. I had the Madame, like a croque-monsieur plus an egg, wrapped in a tasty whole wheat crêpe. I'd totally come back here a dozen times to try all the types of sweet and salty/savory flavors they offer. A great place to read the newspaper too... PS I need to find another word other than "great" because I obviously use it too much here in Cambodia.

The Russian Market: just another Asian market. BUT, more "real" than the Central Market that is geared to tourists. Locals were shopping here, getting their hair done, buying groceries, and bartering for home goods. There were some incredible colorful photo opportunities in the fabric section and I
bought some souvenirs for the family. I still can't get over the fabrics and silks. Absolutely stunning and in every color imaginable. I bought one today and three yesterday. I know I won't be able to choose which to give away as gifts.

At Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom was a small and slightly run down temple, but perhaps that's because it's still used quite a bit. I enjoyed looking at the bronzes and it was certainly a taste of things to come in Siem Reap. Located on the phnom/hill that the city was named for, this wat/temple is situated at a roundabout, one side of which faces the U.S. Embassy. A newish complex that seems massive compared to the Consulate in Shenyang. Perhaps a future tour in Cambodia? I think yes...

I had a quick lunch at Brown's Riverside location with a local woman I met at the Central Market and her two adorable children. Interesting conversation as well. Her advice? Although unsolicited: life is better with children and without men, since blood will always be thicker than love. Woof! I didn't ask too many questions but I can bet there are some stories behind that!

More iced drinks!

After a hot and dusty tuk-tuk ride to the airport, plus a quick 45-minute plane ride, I landed in paradise. COMPLETELY. I could go on and on about Siem Reap... for another post.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 2)

Itinerary

• Will's Cafe
• National Museum of Cambodia
• Friends Cafe - Closed
• Crêpe Mania - Closed
• Brown's Coffee and Bakery (cafe food)
• Royal Palace
• Hotel
• Deco (Modern American food)

A much tougher run today, not as refreshing as yesterday. But what can you do? I can't control everything. 

Dragon outside the National Museum

After yesterday's intense itinerary, today's was more in the historic realm. My first stop after a fab brunch was the National Museum, which is literally a few blocks from my hotel. I really wish I could have taken photos inside because the artifacts were so impressive. I snuck a few with my iPhone (shh! don't tell!) but there was even beauty in the building itself, so I did admire the architecture and its lush courtyard. Hot as balls with no air conditioning, though with frequent shaded bench breaks and meditation moments outside, I survived. Inside, a room with hundreds of different Buddha statues was the most impressive, all in different sizes and variations of poses. Statues and carvings throughout were staggeringly impressive, yet the museum itself is humble and uncommanding.

I tried a few places nearby for lunch but because of the upcoming holiday, some places were closed. Ended up at a coffee joint suggested to me for a delicious local drink: iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. It threw me into such a state of relaxation that I ended up just chilling there to eat a light lunch. My waitress was so floored to hear that I was American but I chose to visit her country from China. She asked how I had heard about Brown's and was giddy to learn that a foreigner had recommended it to me. The simple things in life. The chicken pesto sandwich was delish (seriously, like so close to Cosi's the memories came rushing back) and it filled me up just enough to get me through the next leg of the day. Brown's is a great place to whittle away the two hours I had until the palace opened after lunch. Oh, and everywhere here has free wifi! Just ask for the password.

Intricate roof of the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace itself is a massive white building with tiered roofs and intricate tilework, but the grounds are even more impressive and large. Unfortunately, as I was buying tickets, I heard the ever-familiar drone of Mandarin Chinese. When I realized I would be sharing the space with a whole bunch of Mainlanders, I sighed. But to be honest, the place was big enough that I could avoid them easily. Gilded buildings all over with many awnings, a couple hundred carvings, and sculptures dotting the gardens. Everywhere one looked, another beautiful building to explore. There were even monkeys around, chirping at tourists who brought snacks like bananas or oranges. Quite the photo op!

Nomnomnom

I tired quickly with the grating company of the Zhongguoren and the heat of the afternoon sun. By 3, I was puckered out and in need of some water. Although my hotel was still only 100m from the palace entrance, it felt like a marathon to walk there in the sweltering temperatures. I collapsed on the bed once I arrived, but before I fell asleep, I donned my bathing suit and made my way up to the rooftop pool deck. There, I quick dove in for a swim and promptly passed out on the lounge chair. Almost two hours later, my body somewhat rested, I made my way back to the room to prep for dinner.

Waiting for Gatsby

The Advisor (a weekly local magazine) had rave reviews of a fairly new-ish restaurant called Deco. Small, precise menu but lauded for the fabulous drinks. No convincing necessary here! I made a reservation (for 1, so sad!) and hopped in a tuk-tuk over to the southern part of town. Totally worth the hype for the cocktails and the food was tasty too. I asked for more flatbread to mop up the delicious yogurt spinach lentil dish I started with, but I would have used my fingers it was that good. After two well-crafted drinks made with a hefty amount of gin, I would probably have enjoyed anything though. The music was great and the ambiance was totally Great Gatsby-esque. I had no problem heading to bed early with the hope of sleeping in a bit for my final day in Phnom Penh. 

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 1)

Itinerary

• Choeung Ek Killing Fields
• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
• Magnolia Restaurant (Khmer-Vietnamese food)
• Phsar Thmei - Central Market
• Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel
• Taqueria Corona (Mexican food)
• Riverside walk
• Blue Pumpkin (ice cream & bakery)
• Foreign Correspondents' Club

I woke up to the beautiful sound of birds. You don't hear chirping birds (or any wildlife, for that matter) in China. How refreshing. 

My morning run took me by the Royal Palace, where locals exercised outside the main gate or fed the morning pigeons. Typical Asian elements were there, like choreographed dancing to canned music, fresh fruit stands, people on their motorbikes heading to work. The route went around Koh Pich Island, a desolate Atlantic City-esque place that aims to be a center of luxury but in the daytime is a little sad. Across the Mekong River, you can see high rises that remind me of China's landscape. Perhaps they're built by Chinese real estate tycoons? Nevertheless, it was still nice to get out and stretch my legs after the flight.

Aside from the glorious temples of Cambodia located in Siem Reap, Cambodia has a dark history and is known for the Khmer Rouge regime and Pol Pot. In my opinion, a trip to Cambodia and Phnom Penh wouldn't be complete without a trip to the genocidal killing fields, at least to acknowledge this country's more recent grim history and pay respect to those that lost their lives. So the Choeung Ek Killing Fields site was my first stop of the day, located about 45 minutes via tuk-tuk outside of the city. 

Remembrance Bracelets at the Killing Fields

No two genocides are the "same" but the feeling I had at the Killing Fields is the same I had when I visited the Dachau Concentration Camp. When given a belief to hide behind, people are capable of inhuman things. The difference for Cambodia is that, to my knowledge, it's one of the few genocides where the regime attacked its own people. In any case, the site is well preserved, and the $2 audio
guide was very well made, I totally recommend it. Full of history and insight, the guide provided a narrative to the sights. Listening to a still-alive survivor of the 1978 events while standing beside a mass grave once filled with over 450 innocent bodies is very moving. This atrocity happened only 30 years ago, give or take, so the history for some is very much alive today. I am glad I had the opportunity to learn more about it from a first-hand perspective.

The Tuol Sleng facility is where the victims of the killing fields were first sent after they were arrested, to be tortured, interrogated, and held captive until they were transferred. An old school converted into the Security Prison 21 (S-21), Tuol Sleng's halls and cells are now bare except for barbed wire and metal beds with shackles. When Pol Pot's regime was finally overthrown, the resistance entered Tuol Sleng and freed the seven survivors, while photo-documenting those still chained to the beds who were not as fortunate. Large prints of these victims hang on the walls in the cells, left as they were in 1979. Haunting.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

::sigh:: After such a serious morning, I tried to lighten my afternoon at a local Khmer food restaurant for some authentic dishes (and delicious coffee), and then headed over to the art deco Central Market for some retail therapy. Like typical Asian markets, the wares were cheap and bargainable, and very varied (shoes, belts, bags, clothes, cosmetics, watches, jewelry, glasses, gifts, and oh yes, raw meat, live fish and flowers). I bought some scarves, postcards, and a pair of sandals. Heading back to the hotel after a long day, I thought about how much this country has rebounded after such a momentous past. 

I had dinner with A and his wife who both work here after a number of years serving in China. The Mexican restaurant we met at had some seriously delicious food and the conversations was great. Sharing China memories and comparisons to Cambodia made it easier for me to admire this country for its accomplishments and its charm. They gave me some insider recommendations for Phnom Penh and my onward trip to Siem Reap, and it was exciting to hear about their new lives settling in. It was a true pleasure to see them again in a new setting. Although I didn't really want to say goodbye, we parted ways after a tasty meal and will certainly stay in touch in the future given this small world. 

The evening ended up with a riverside walk along the Mekong, some delicious ice cream and petit madelines, and few local beers with some other expats at the FCC. Day 1, although heart-wrenching and slightly depressing, showed me just how beautiful, diverse, and impressive Cambodia truly is.

The view from the FCC

Nightlife & Bars in Shenyang

So it's Friday night in the middle of summer and you're looking for a place to go. What are your choices? Well, in Shenyang the options are limited, but here's a few that we have found to be solid options when the weather is nice. This list is by no means exclusive or exhaustive, and if you have any other suggestions, feel free to list them in the comments section. Party on!

Black Sugar Restaurant & Bar - Nan Nanning Jie at Bei'Er Ma Lu
Although right now the road outside Black Sugar is all torn up due to construction, I have found the atmosphere to be nice here. There is an outdoor deck with some tables and chairs; inside, there are two floors, the main first floor and a more private second floor. The bar has a handful of beers on tap and their mixed drinks aren't weak. The restaurant offers Western fare, from soups and salads to pasta, burritos, steak or hamburger.  Service is attentive and very often there will be a soccer game on their projection screen. Good for dinner and a drink.

Mo Mo Coffee House (formerly 97 Club) - Zhongshan Lu at Zhongshan Square's SW corner
Sitting under Mao's southwesterly gaze, this indoor-outdoor cafe is very pleasant for its ambiance. Outdoor tables, flowers, and fences with string lights on them make for a place to sit in the summer for a beer or drink after a long night. In Shenyang, there aren't many places where you can sit outside and have a drink. If you don't mind the mosquitos or spiders, this places is pretty chill. They don't have everything they list on the menu, so don't come expecting much. But if you want a place to hang out and catch a beer while enjoying the *air, this place is pretty good. (*good air quality not guaranteed).

Stroller's Bar - Wu Jing Jie and Shi Wei Lu on the SW corner
The inside of this corner joint is filled with random German paraphernalia and rock posters from the '80s, while the bartenders walk around in all black metal band t-shirts (probably also from the '80s). A decent selection of bottled import beers makes this place good for a drink. The snack food is also pretty reliable, with the french fries, hamburger, and "tartilla" being consistently delicious with a cold Belgian beer. It's a pretty small place and can get crowded/smoky if there are lots of locals; but if you're there around 6:00pm any weekday it's still pretty quiet. Good for a drink or two on your way home.

Buddha Bar - Bin He Lu just east of the Kempinski Hotel
Jazz lounge atmosphere tucked away into an unpretentious store front. The beer list is small, but the mixed drinks are well-made and reasonably priced. On the few occasions I've been here, a solo female vocalist was singing cover songs and popular hits, which added to the nice atmosphere.  The first floor is lofty and well-spaced, and I think there's a second floor with private rooms. No food available except for the regular popcorn and nuts, but the drinks will keep you occupied well enough. Good for hanging out to chat and have a drink.

The Lobby Bar - The Grand Hyatt, 25th Floor, Wenyi Lu before Qingnian Da Jie
Shenyang's swankiest and newest bar with a phenomenal view of the city. Facing out to the TV tower, the bar is located on the 25th floor of the Hyatt and is a step above every other drinking establishment in the city. Catering to its hotel guests, the Lobby Bar offers specialty cocktails alongside a pricey beer/wine list. I've visited the bar once and will definitely be going back after work sometime soon. The mojito and cosmopolitans were both delicious and well-made. Would be great for a cocktail party.

O'Reilly's Bar - Liu Wei Lu off Bei San Jin Jie
A low-key Irish bar with an international clientele. The drinks here are so-so and the beers run about average. I've only eaten the kitchen's food once (the menu is mostly Mexican food?), but it was good for Shenyang. Occasionally there is live music here, with local bands or singers performing alongside accompaniment. A good option for St. Patrick's Day, but otherwise there are better places to go.

Green Mile/NYPD Pizza - small alley on the east side of Bei San Jing Jie, south of Shi Fu Da Lu
Hands down the best pizza in Shenyang comes out of the kitchen at the Green Mile Bar. The Green Mile is a huge draw for both Chinese and foreigners alike, and this place is packed on weeknights after 6 and certainly on weekends as well. Get a VIP card and go during happy hour to get buy-one-get-one-half-off for certain beers and drinks. While you're there, you might as well get yourself a pizza too. 10+ options to choose from, and I can tell you they all taste great. If you're coming with a big group, call in advance for a table or you might be waiting a while for a seat.

Lenore's - small alley on the east side of San Jing Jie, south of Shi San Wei Lu
Located just off the main street of 三经街, Lenore's has cheap beer and a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Options to sit inside in the air conditioning with TVs playing soccer, or to sit outside along the alleyway. Mixed drinks tend to be weak, but occasionally they have specials that are mixed well. Hookahs also available here, with a number of different flavors. A good place to have some beers before moving on to Party 98 up the street.

SoHo - Nan Nanning Jie, just south of Zhongshan Lu
Curiously, I don't know if this is part of the SoHo chain in China, but this characteristically Chinese bar/club is located just around the corner from Mo Mo. I stumbled in here with friends one night on our way home and found it to be pretty interesting. Drinks are reasonably priced, but the ambiance is a bit awkward. There is a stage for the DJ and singer, and a catwalk where there is performance dancing. Music trended towards nondescript Chinese house music, but occasionally Western songs came on. Not my first choice for going out, but it's close to downtown.

Party 98 - San Jing Jie, just north of Shi San Wei Lu
A typical Chinese club at its finest, Party 98 offers both live music (Western on the first floor, Chinese on the second floor) and DJ mixes, complete with a hydraulic dance floor. Thursdays are ladies night and Fridays/Saturdays there are great drink specials (15RMB for mixed drinks). A good selection of drinks to choose from and of course you can always order the fruit plate for your table. My recommendation is to go with a group and plan to people watch before getting on the dance floor yourself and rockin' out to some good jams.

Pure Color - Feng Tian Jie, north of Shi Fu Da Lu
Shenyang's best (and only) international dance club. The live band is awesome and they get the crowd pumping. In between their sets, the DJ plays top 40 tracks (erring on the side of last year's top 40, though). Beer is decently-priced and your standard mixed drinks are typically buy-one-get-one-free. You'll see a good amount of expats here, although the music's so loud you won't really be able to start a conversation with them. Just dance, that's what Pure Color is good for. All in all, a great place to end the night.

New Zealand: The North Island

Wellington from the sky

Wellington: a hipster town nestled into the mountains surrounding a breathtaking bay. On first arrival by ferry, Wellington seems very busy, with cars lining the highways and people bustling about. Perhaps as the nation's capital, it has a reason to be busy. The scene is pretty hipster and has tons to offer in terms of food and drink. While there, we continued our gastronomic feast through New Zealand and ate at some solid restaurants, only topped off by some fabulous drinks ( including home-brewed cider and mulled wine). The atmosphere reminds me of Hong Kong, harbour city that's kinda funky with an edge. Windy Welly was the first real stop where the schedule had nothing planned. As such, we took it easy: visited Te Aro Museum, the Botanical Gardens, and Cuba Street. The runs were hilly and the scenes were generically pretty. While in Wellington, we stayed at Kikki's place, an AirB&B apartment. Knowing the perils of AirB&B, this was a risk. However, it turned out Kikki's place was just as lovely and convenient as advertised. And damn, the bed was comfy!

Downtown Wellington

A view of the Wellington Harbour

Auckland B&W

Auckland: a superbly accessible city that's hip without being TOO hipster and beautiful to boot! I preferred Auckland to Wellington for the same reason why Shenyang is better than Beijing (wait, what? Did I just say that?) Wellington was busy and full of "stuff" to do, but Auckland had real character. The people in Auckland were genuine and took themselves less seriously than the capital people. Now, that's all given the fact that all Kiwis are more genuine and laid-back than any other population I've ever met. Anyway, like Wellington, Auckland also has its hills (gorgeous botanical gardens) and its harbour (biggest marina in the Southern Hemisphere) but in my opinion, it's a much better designed city. The neighborhoods are accessible and the culture is thriving. Lots to see, eat, and drink: so we did! Did I mention it has a huge harbour? Happened to take a spin on an America's Cup racing boat and it made me decide: Auckland is definitely my favorite real city in New Zealand. I'd move here in a heartbeat! While we were here, we stayed in the funky and chic Hotel DeBrett and it was worth the cost to be in the heart of town and surrounded by up-to-date luxury. Divine!

The Domain

A view of the Auckland Harbour while sailing

Best meal of the entire trip

Viaduct Harbour at sunset

The War Memorial

David Does Shenyang! Day 2: "A Perspective"

Shenyang: In a word ~ busy, colorful, cold, snowy, bustling, open and friendly.

Following a very long flight from Detroit to Beijing and then to Shenyang, Deb and I were at the baggage claim carousel merely looking to grab our stuff and head out to the wilds of Shenyang.
Instantly, it all became more than worthwhile when we saw beautiful Ca, a big bouquet of flowers and an even bigger smile welcoming us to Shenyang.  Tears, laughter, hugs, kisses and smiles ensued.

We were carried away to her home at The Somerset. Following more tears, laughter, hugs and kisses, we settled in for a well-deserved coma at her lovely apartment.

Easter Sunday morning greeted us with snow.  Perhaps a more accurate description would be slush, followed by puddles. Undaunted, we went for shopping, snacking, exploring and getting a feel for the city.  Larger than one would imagine. Much.  It's a city certainly "under construction" with cranes and new buildings at every turn.  Ca explains that some of it is due to China's Olympic games held here later this summer. Other 20+ story buildings are what we'd all call "spec."  Great looking, full-service, modern places, all looking for tenants.  My guess is that it's a case of "If you build it, they will come."

The folks in Shenyang are very open, pleasant, helpful and friendly.  Ca's command of Chinese, however, was essential throughout our sightseeing, food ordering and getting around.

We had dinner with no less than a dozen State co-workers last night.  It could best be described as Sichuan ~ again, lots of great food shared by all.  Spicy, varied and delicious.  Great company of friends.

We lunched today at (believe it or not) at a Korean shop that Ca had recommended highly ~ even before we left for China. Korean bibimbap is an absolutely delicious culinary treasure. Simultaneously simple and complex, it's a combination of vegetables, bean sprouts, carrots and many other ingredients placed over rice in a HOT ceramic pot and an egg is cracked over the concoction.  The heat of the food and the pot itself cook the egg which is then mixed into other the yummy ingredients. Comfort food extraordinaire!

Our visit to the U. S. Consulate today will surely be remembered as a highlight of the trip that we're only half-way through.  We met privately with the Consul General and were then introduced to most of the staff. We're certainly proud of Ca; she and her co-workers do good things.

Deb and I went out afterward, locally, to explore on our own and had a very nice eight-story department store in mind ~ perhaps a city block away.  Who knew the store we actually wanted was right next door to the store we entered?  A half hour of looking for an exit and finding the entrance with very few English signs and international symbols, we found our way into the right store.  Here too, very friendly, helpful folks assisting two clearly lost window-shoppers were nearly everywhere.

A KFC across the street beckoned Deb and I (believe it or not).  They had coffee, fries and best of all, pictures of food! Lots of nodding, smiling, and charade-like movements, and we were happily back at Ca's who (typically polite) was very understanding of our "adventures in misadventures" this evening.

Back tonight for a delicious hot shower and (no doubt) another excellent and well-earned coma. Photos of all of the above ~ and then some ~ are sure to follow.

Mom Does Shenyang! Day 1:

Written by Mom:

What is your first impression of Shenyang?

Wow...when you leave the airport in Shenyang, it feels slightly like a war zone.  Dusty, concrete, almost like, well, a war zone or deserted apocalypse movies you've seen.  Then, as you approach the city, you see the overwhelming amount of new construction.  Huge skyscrapers, like the Miami real estate boom.  Only it's not Miami.  Ca told us about the Chinese love for festive, gaudy lighting...you have to see it to believe it!  Twinkling lights, almost like Christmas overload, are EVERYWHERE.  And it stays that way all year long.  Vibrant blues and pinks, crazy neon colors everywhere.  In the trees, on the buildings, wow.  It's a really large city, but you can not tell that by looking out the window.  I suppose it's the air that limits your view to the distance, kind of foggy all the time.

We noticed right away that we really were the oddity and that's an interesting feeling.  People do stare at you, but in a friendly way.  We had more than a few occasions when complete strangers would come over and start chatting!  No care on their part that we were staring at them like deer in the headlights.  I was mistaken for a Russian, but I suppose there are a lot of Russians here.  Having a Shenyangese man speaking Russian to you in the North Market is kind of fun!  It was good to have the knowledge to be able to answer back.

The market is something to see!  Amazing fish and aquarium supplies, then upstairs to the jewelry.  Man, if Beijing is better, you better pull out your wallet!!!  Amazing amber, jade of all colors, white, red, and of course, green.  Pink Opals.  Love, love, love. Pottery, beautiful scrolls on and on and on.  We're holding up on the shopping because a little bird told us there is MORE in Beijing.  I am loving it.

What has been your favorite dish so far?

That is hard to say...the dumpling place was amayyyzzing.  Everything there was to die for.  Probably best was this combo of eggplant wrapped around a small slice of beef and then dipped in batter and fried lightly like tempura!  (oh yeah, with the little shrimps in it too!) AND the broccoli / carrot stir fry.  Now I see what the Chinese restaurants at home are trying to represent!  and it is darn good.  Best of all, we ate like kings and spent a total of +/- $20 for everybody.  Crazy!

How does it feel to be an American in Shenyang?

I felt different, and we clearly were seen that way.  That's a new feeling for me! People were so friendly, and curious to talk to us, or try their English.  The faces were always smiling, even if not a word was understood.  For certain you realize that the high end life pictured in Shanghai or Beijing is not exactly the norm in Shenyang.  We are so fortunate to live as we do.  I think we really take our material life for granted.  The things we consider "normal" are considered luxuries in a lot of the world. Hanging out with the FS people too makes one aware of the great people, great smarts, and great ambition these folks have.  They really are the best and represent the US in such a wonderful way.  I'm proud of my country and always feel it more when I'm out of it.

Full day #1 and we are really pleased to see where Ca lives and works.  It is truly what she said - "the real China."  Wouldn't miss a minute.

Hotpot: the Chinese fondue

When I first came to China back in 2006, I was a wary eater, fearful of trying anything new. Those who know me from the States know that I grew up as a very picky eater. If it didn't look appetizing, odds are I probably wouldn't eat it. That summer in China I lost a considerable amount of weight because I was so skeptical of Chinese food. How foolish. China has a host of delicious dishes that I crave nowadays. One of these is hotpot (in Chinese 火锅, huǒ guō, literally "fire" "pot").

Haidilao Hot Pot - delicious!

There is a chain in China called Haidilao Hot Pot that has mastered the cuisine, and it's probably the only hot pot restaurant I'll go to by choice (unless I'm dragged to a C-grade leather-meat Sichuan hot pot restaurant against my will ;). They've perfected the art of hotpot, and thought of everything. Most Haidilaos have full amenities for waiting guests, including nail salons, day cares, computer stations, shoe shiners, and wet bars. The service is the best I've come across in a Chinese restaurant chain, with courteous and well-trained wait staff. Waiters seat you around a table with a hole in the center, supplying you with an apron to don in order to protect your clothes. If you have glasses, they'll give you wipe cloths; if your hair is down, they'll give you a hair tie; if you have long sleeves, they'll give you cloth arm protectors. Seriously.

Once you've gotten the menu, the decisions are up to you on what you want to dip into boiling broth. Most of the time I get a half-and-half broth (as seen above): half spicy, half tomato-based, both delicious. The menu is divided up into meats (beef, pork, mutton, etc), fish (ehhh), veggies, tofu, etc. Sooner than you'd expect, they bring you bowls and plates of the items you ordered, along with the cauldron that fits in the table with the bubbling soup inside. Once the liquid is rolling, the waiters will spoon off a bowl of tasty tomato soup for you to sip on while you get settled. In my opinion, the best thing about hot pot is the next step: the sauces.

The Shenyang Haidilao is massive. It takes up most of the sixth floor of a shopping mall just down the road from where I live. Inside, I estimate there are over 150 tables and private rooms. Each mini-section of seating has its own condiment/sauce bar. Before you start throwing your selected dishes into the hotpot, you have the chance to mix your own sauce to dip the goodies in once they're cooked. I normally make two sauces. The first is your basic soy/vinegar/garlic sauce, but with a bit of chives, coriander, sesame seeds, and chilis added in for flavor. The next is the sesame sauce, complete with (normally too much) garlic, chives, and peanuts. A turned me on to the peanut idea. When I saw him dump a bowl of peanuts into his sesame sauce, I was skeptical (as per normal). But, like in most things, turns out he was on to something. Now I can't refrain from getting my own bowl of peanuts to dump into my sesame sauce. Turns out I can eat it all on its own without dipping anything into it but nuts. :P

So by now your broth is boiling and all of your dishes are on the table, ready to be loaded in. I normally order two plates of meat, like beef and pork with some dumplings as well. You can't go wrong with some tofu, either in long strips or in thick frozen blocks. As for veggies, the broccoli is standard, but lotus root, spinach, and potatoes are good too. Some people like the shrimp goo, but that's one thing I can't get into. Mashed-up shrimp guts squeezed out of a puff pastry bag and puffed up into shrimp cheetos doesn't look, sound, or taste like my kind of yum. But all the rest of the dishes are amazing. And as is normal for Chinese eating, it's hard to gauge how much you've eaten. Whether it's because of the rotating lazy susan or because you're concentrating on fishing your meal out of a boiling pot of oil and broth, you forget how much food actually ends up on your plate. Needless to say, I'm always stuffed after hotpot, having gorged myself on tasty meat and veggies. Haidilao, you've done it right. Here's a toast to you, for filling me with yummy boiled goodness. Two thumbs and two chopsticks up!

Burma Day 4: Bagan - Yangon

Sunrise over Bagan

Painted skies

I'm going to miss Bagan. Before we arrived, I thought I would grow tired of looking at temples. But that's not the case. Perhaps it's the sense of exploration in getting to each. We rented bikes for today and yesterday and rode our way around Old Bagan and the surrounding villages. No agenda, no plan except to see temples. Each one is different and from each you have a different view of your surroundings. Which is basically the same: temples everywhere. Breathtaking. And never tiring. But different because there's always JUST another temple you can see that you want to find, explore, and see up close. In part, I felt as if I was trying to complete a massive-scale scavenger hunt. Armed with my map and my bike, I could have tried to check off all the "suggested" temples. But I borrowed the sense of calm from my travel companions and just let it happen. Felt good to relax.

So far my impression of Burma is, well.... impressed. With the people (so nice), the food (Thai fusion with fresh fruit? Yes please!), the scenery (city and countryside), and atmosphere (relaxed ambition). Amongst the three of us (not experts by any means), we estimate that in five years, a historical gem like Bagan will be at the top of the Southeast Asian traveler's list alongside places like Angkor Wat and Luang Prabang. I hope that it doesn't lose it's charm by becoming commercialized, but I think that the Burmese people and hopefully the government will do their part in preserving the indescribable qualities of their country that make it so wonderful.

Right now I'm on the plane back to Yangon and I have to say, I'm a tad bit scared. We laughed at the quaintness of the security and immigration check on our way in (when doing the ID check, the airport staff simply asked, "where are you from?" and then stamped our boarding passes with a 'checked' stamp when we replied "USA", adding a tick mark in a column of nationalities). As we were taxiing down the runway, though, the plane came to an abrupt stop and we turned around to go back to the beginning. A small problem, our captain explained. We will be taking off 10 minutes later. ::sigh:: I'm forcing myself to get in the zen place I need to be to deal with this "small problem." Why, you ask? This is why: same airline, same flight number crashed just a month or two ago...

-/-

Back in Yangon, and I am sitting in The Strand Hotel dining room, surrounded by colonial opulence. I am the youngest person here, and the only person by myself. But to be honest, I don't mind. I'm enjoying the ambiance, and I am enamored with the acoustic six-string guitar player who is playing the most beautiful pieces.

I don't mean to, but wherever I go, I seem to find restaurants that offer dishes with truffles. Needless to say, I'm a big fan of truffles. At the top of my dining favorites these days, it's bibimbap, truffles, avocado, and duck. I guess it's reflective of where I'm living? What a luxurious combination.

Anyway, the Strand is a glorious old hotel. As a lodging option, it's a five-star hotel, mostly for its prestige and its location (waterfront views, downtown). The cafe serves high tea every day and from what I hear and read, it draws quite the crowd (although I imagine it's mostly a q-tipped bunch). I've always imagined the colonial countries as being still reminiscent of their pre-independence days, with scrubby Brits lounging around in their khakis and drinking tea with bamboo fans overhead. Pretty accurate still. It's a good feeling.

This truffle risotto = divine. My guitar player just started playing Somewhere Over The Rainbow and I think I'm there, in heaven, eating this dish. The server sprinkled something on the dish before I got a bite, I think it's pepper with cinnamon or nutmeg? Either way, with the chestnut and pear bits (technical term: ragout) on top and the delicious bits of black truffle spread throughout, I'm seriously content. The hardest question of tonight? Do I order the apple tart to finish or be good with coffee and petite madelines? Decisions, decisions!

Restaurant: The Spicy Noodle Guan

When we have a craving for a little bit of spice in a our lives, we head over to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant we fondly call, "The Spicy Noodle Guan." Guan, or 馆 means "shop" or "house."

B, A, BFF, & J walking to the noodle place

Before I came to China, I was a bit of a spice wimp. I tear up when eating buffalo wings and I can't handle hot wings without regretting it later. But the BFF has a way of encouraging me to try things I haven't before (for example, Indian food!). At the noodle shop, I don't get the 辣面 là miàn, literally "spicy noodle," because it's killer spicy for me. But I do enjoy the other dishes that back a good spice punch themselves. 

From right to left:
土豆丝 tǔdòu sī - literally "potato silk;" actually potato strips in a hot vinegar sauce
干煸四季豆 gān biān sìjì dòu - dry stir-fried green beans with bits of pork and Chinese peppercorns
地三鮮 de sān xiān - literally "earth three fresh;" actually fried eggplant, green peppers, and potato
The 辣面 là miàn in the background is the big soup-like dish with noodles and HOT RED BROTH.

Want some spice?

When you walk into a restaurant that has racks of hanging hot red peppers by the stringful, you know that everything is going to taste spicy. Normally this restaurant is crowded with people, all enjoying their daily dose of hot. The 老板 lǎobǎn (cook/owner/boss) is a young lady who knows our group and our orders (for example, she knows I don't get the noodles but order a small cup of rice instead). I assume we're probably the only Westerners that frequent this joint, and we stick out pretty bad when the place is full of locals. 

It's not much, but it's our Spicy Noodle Guan

Today, because of the snow, the Spicy Noodle Guan was empty! Only a small group of girls was finishing up when we came in; by the time we left, we were the only ones there.

The best thing about this place (and a general awesome fact about hole-in-the-wall eateries in China) is that the entire meal, everything pictured above and two more spicy noodles, cost 45 RMB (USD $7.25). And I've never left this place unsatisfied with what I ate: tasty, spicy, salty goodness.