Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 2)

Itinerary

• Will's Cafe
• National Museum of Cambodia
• Friends Cafe - Closed
• Crêpe Mania - Closed
• Brown's Coffee and Bakery (cafe food)
• Royal Palace
• Hotel
• Deco (Modern American food)

A much tougher run today, not as refreshing as yesterday. But what can you do? I can't control everything. 

Dragon outside the National Museum

After yesterday's intense itinerary, today's was more in the historic realm. My first stop after a fab brunch was the National Museum, which is literally a few blocks from my hotel. I really wish I could have taken photos inside because the artifacts were so impressive. I snuck a few with my iPhone (shh! don't tell!) but there was even beauty in the building itself, so I did admire the architecture and its lush courtyard. Hot as balls with no air conditioning, though with frequent shaded bench breaks and meditation moments outside, I survived. Inside, a room with hundreds of different Buddha statues was the most impressive, all in different sizes and variations of poses. Statues and carvings throughout were staggeringly impressive, yet the museum itself is humble and uncommanding.

I tried a few places nearby for lunch but because of the upcoming holiday, some places were closed. Ended up at a coffee joint suggested to me for a delicious local drink: iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. It threw me into such a state of relaxation that I ended up just chilling there to eat a light lunch. My waitress was so floored to hear that I was American but I chose to visit her country from China. She asked how I had heard about Brown's and was giddy to learn that a foreigner had recommended it to me. The simple things in life. The chicken pesto sandwich was delish (seriously, like so close to Cosi's the memories came rushing back) and it filled me up just enough to get me through the next leg of the day. Brown's is a great place to whittle away the two hours I had until the palace opened after lunch. Oh, and everywhere here has free wifi! Just ask for the password.

Intricate roof of the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace itself is a massive white building with tiered roofs and intricate tilework, but the grounds are even more impressive and large. Unfortunately, as I was buying tickets, I heard the ever-familiar drone of Mandarin Chinese. When I realized I would be sharing the space with a whole bunch of Mainlanders, I sighed. But to be honest, the place was big enough that I could avoid them easily. Gilded buildings all over with many awnings, a couple hundred carvings, and sculptures dotting the gardens. Everywhere one looked, another beautiful building to explore. There were even monkeys around, chirping at tourists who brought snacks like bananas or oranges. Quite the photo op!

Nomnomnom

I tired quickly with the grating company of the Zhongguoren and the heat of the afternoon sun. By 3, I was puckered out and in need of some water. Although my hotel was still only 100m from the palace entrance, it felt like a marathon to walk there in the sweltering temperatures. I collapsed on the bed once I arrived, but before I fell asleep, I donned my bathing suit and made my way up to the rooftop pool deck. There, I quick dove in for a swim and promptly passed out on the lounge chair. Almost two hours later, my body somewhat rested, I made my way back to the room to prep for dinner.

Waiting for Gatsby

The Advisor (a weekly local magazine) had rave reviews of a fairly new-ish restaurant called Deco. Small, precise menu but lauded for the fabulous drinks. No convincing necessary here! I made a reservation (for 1, so sad!) and hopped in a tuk-tuk over to the southern part of town. Totally worth the hype for the cocktails and the food was tasty too. I asked for more flatbread to mop up the delicious yogurt spinach lentil dish I started with, but I would have used my fingers it was that good. After two well-crafted drinks made with a hefty amount of gin, I would probably have enjoyed anything though. The music was great and the ambiance was totally Great Gatsby-esque. I had no problem heading to bed early with the hope of sleeping in a bit for my final day in Phnom Penh. 

Nightlife & Bars in Shenyang

So it's Friday night in the middle of summer and you're looking for a place to go. What are your choices? Well, in Shenyang the options are limited, but here's a few that we have found to be solid options when the weather is nice. This list is by no means exclusive or exhaustive, and if you have any other suggestions, feel free to list them in the comments section. Party on!

Black Sugar Restaurant & Bar - Nan Nanning Jie at Bei'Er Ma Lu
Although right now the road outside Black Sugar is all torn up due to construction, I have found the atmosphere to be nice here. There is an outdoor deck with some tables and chairs; inside, there are two floors, the main first floor and a more private second floor. The bar has a handful of beers on tap and their mixed drinks aren't weak. The restaurant offers Western fare, from soups and salads to pasta, burritos, steak or hamburger.  Service is attentive and very often there will be a soccer game on their projection screen. Good for dinner and a drink.

Mo Mo Coffee House (formerly 97 Club) - Zhongshan Lu at Zhongshan Square's SW corner
Sitting under Mao's southwesterly gaze, this indoor-outdoor cafe is very pleasant for its ambiance. Outdoor tables, flowers, and fences with string lights on them make for a place to sit in the summer for a beer or drink after a long night. In Shenyang, there aren't many places where you can sit outside and have a drink. If you don't mind the mosquitos or spiders, this places is pretty chill. They don't have everything they list on the menu, so don't come expecting much. But if you want a place to hang out and catch a beer while enjoying the *air, this place is pretty good. (*good air quality not guaranteed).

Stroller's Bar - Wu Jing Jie and Shi Wei Lu on the SW corner
The inside of this corner joint is filled with random German paraphernalia and rock posters from the '80s, while the bartenders walk around in all black metal band t-shirts (probably also from the '80s). A decent selection of bottled import beers makes this place good for a drink. The snack food is also pretty reliable, with the french fries, hamburger, and "tartilla" being consistently delicious with a cold Belgian beer. It's a pretty small place and can get crowded/smoky if there are lots of locals; but if you're there around 6:00pm any weekday it's still pretty quiet. Good for a drink or two on your way home.

Buddha Bar - Bin He Lu just east of the Kempinski Hotel
Jazz lounge atmosphere tucked away into an unpretentious store front. The beer list is small, but the mixed drinks are well-made and reasonably priced. On the few occasions I've been here, a solo female vocalist was singing cover songs and popular hits, which added to the nice atmosphere.  The first floor is lofty and well-spaced, and I think there's a second floor with private rooms. No food available except for the regular popcorn and nuts, but the drinks will keep you occupied well enough. Good for hanging out to chat and have a drink.

The Lobby Bar - The Grand Hyatt, 25th Floor, Wenyi Lu before Qingnian Da Jie
Shenyang's swankiest and newest bar with a phenomenal view of the city. Facing out to the TV tower, the bar is located on the 25th floor of the Hyatt and is a step above every other drinking establishment in the city. Catering to its hotel guests, the Lobby Bar offers specialty cocktails alongside a pricey beer/wine list. I've visited the bar once and will definitely be going back after work sometime soon. The mojito and cosmopolitans were both delicious and well-made. Would be great for a cocktail party.

O'Reilly's Bar - Liu Wei Lu off Bei San Jin Jie
A low-key Irish bar with an international clientele. The drinks here are so-so and the beers run about average. I've only eaten the kitchen's food once (the menu is mostly Mexican food?), but it was good for Shenyang. Occasionally there is live music here, with local bands or singers performing alongside accompaniment. A good option for St. Patrick's Day, but otherwise there are better places to go.

Green Mile/NYPD Pizza - small alley on the east side of Bei San Jing Jie, south of Shi Fu Da Lu
Hands down the best pizza in Shenyang comes out of the kitchen at the Green Mile Bar. The Green Mile is a huge draw for both Chinese and foreigners alike, and this place is packed on weeknights after 6 and certainly on weekends as well. Get a VIP card and go during happy hour to get buy-one-get-one-half-off for certain beers and drinks. While you're there, you might as well get yourself a pizza too. 10+ options to choose from, and I can tell you they all taste great. If you're coming with a big group, call in advance for a table or you might be waiting a while for a seat.

Lenore's - small alley on the east side of San Jing Jie, south of Shi San Wei Lu
Located just off the main street of 三经街, Lenore's has cheap beer and a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Options to sit inside in the air conditioning with TVs playing soccer, or to sit outside along the alleyway. Mixed drinks tend to be weak, but occasionally they have specials that are mixed well. Hookahs also available here, with a number of different flavors. A good place to have some beers before moving on to Party 98 up the street.

SoHo - Nan Nanning Jie, just south of Zhongshan Lu
Curiously, I don't know if this is part of the SoHo chain in China, but this characteristically Chinese bar/club is located just around the corner from Mo Mo. I stumbled in here with friends one night on our way home and found it to be pretty interesting. Drinks are reasonably priced, but the ambiance is a bit awkward. There is a stage for the DJ and singer, and a catwalk where there is performance dancing. Music trended towards nondescript Chinese house music, but occasionally Western songs came on. Not my first choice for going out, but it's close to downtown.

Party 98 - San Jing Jie, just north of Shi San Wei Lu
A typical Chinese club at its finest, Party 98 offers both live music (Western on the first floor, Chinese on the second floor) and DJ mixes, complete with a hydraulic dance floor. Thursdays are ladies night and Fridays/Saturdays there are great drink specials (15RMB for mixed drinks). A good selection of drinks to choose from and of course you can always order the fruit plate for your table. My recommendation is to go with a group and plan to people watch before getting on the dance floor yourself and rockin' out to some good jams.

Pure Color - Feng Tian Jie, north of Shi Fu Da Lu
Shenyang's best (and only) international dance club. The live band is awesome and they get the crowd pumping. In between their sets, the DJ plays top 40 tracks (erring on the side of last year's top 40, though). Beer is decently-priced and your standard mixed drinks are typically buy-one-get-one-free. You'll see a good amount of expats here, although the music's so loud you won't really be able to start a conversation with them. Just dance, that's what Pure Color is good for. All in all, a great place to end the night.