Hawaii - Oahu

PCS Transfer:
Shenyang -> Seoul -> Oahu -> Kauai -> Maui -> Phoenix -> Philadelphia

Departing Shenyang on such a high, I couldn't imagine anything better than the last 24 hours. But God has smiled down on me once again and proved that wrong. A trend that soon became the motto for my trip through Hawaii.

If you had twenty work days (or basically four weeks) of paid leave to do whatever you want with, what would you do? Armed with a set budget for flights and an open calendar, I thought pretty hard about that question when I was planning my PCS (permanent change of station) transfer. I cost constructed an itinerary that would have me stopping in Hawaii and Arizona for some adventures and sight-seeing.

Flying east from Shenyang, I figured I could stop in Oahu, Hawaii to visit my best friend and roommate from college, the Egyptian. A beautiful girl with an even more beautiful soul, she's been there for me through everything. After living together for four years, we have come to understand each other and balance out one another's quirks. Thankfully for me, she's currently stationed in Oahu with the Army as an ob/gyn doctor and was willing to have me come visit and stay with her. Super stoked, I made Hawaii my first destination.

I had never been to Hawaii before, so I really didn't know what to expect. In four days on Oahu, I saw the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, the most pristine white sand beaches, the lushest green mountain cliffs, and the clearest blue water I've ever seen in my life.
Aside from the beauty of Oahu, the atmosphere on this island has been my favorite. Known as "the gathering place," Oahu is home to Hawaii's capital Honolulu and the largest population out of the islands (although the big island of Hawaii is actually the largest in size). I visited downtown Honolulu, Waikiki, Hawaii Kai, and Kailua, on the windward coast where the Egyptian lives. Each with its own character, with Waikiki full of luxury shopping malls and fancy dining for the tourists, Hawaii Kai with its sprawling homes in the shadow of the Koko Head Crater, and Kailua, a hidden gem of a town with hands-down the best beach in all of Hawaii.

Knowing I had a limited amount of time on the island, I tried my best to pack as much as possible into my days. Here is my general itinerary and some photos to go along with it:
• Waikiki highrise sunset
• Kailua Beach sunrise and 7km run
• Breakfast at Cinnamon's
• Tailgating at Hawaii Stadium
• Dinner at Korean BBQ
• Boydo-In Japanese Temple
• Sand Island sunset
• Pali Lookout
• Mokapu'u Lighthouse hike
• Coffee Bean distributor
• Waikiki park and Honolulu sunset
• Pillboxes Trail hike
• Kailua Beach relaxing

Boydo-In Temple

Mokapu'u Lighthouse

Waikiki Beach

Pillboxes Hike panorama

Following all of this, I was able to steal the Egyptian away from work to go to Kauai and Maui for a bit of island hopping.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...

Cambodia: Beyond Siem Reap (Day 5)

Itinerary

• Banteay Srei
• Phnom Kulen
• Reclining Buddha
• One Thousand Lingas
• King's Waterfall
• Bar Street
• Blue Pumpkin
• Red Piano
• live jazz at hotel

Yesterday, I arranged a driver and a guide to take me to two of the more distant locations. I had seen photos of the waterfall and I knew it was one of the things I had to do: jump in. So we started off early; I hoped to beat the tourists to the temples.

Banteay Srei is the best example of intricate stonework and carvings. The artwork is also the best preserved in the country. Located about 30 minutes outside of Siem Reap, the temple is situated in the middle of nowhere. During the war, the complex was used a stronghold for the Vietnamese army. Today, with the skies holding back rain but the ground soaked with the previous days' deluge, the moat and the walkways were full of water, adding to the surrealness of my visit. Small in comparison to the Angkor temples, Banteay Srei is humble but absolutely magnificent. I couldn't get over the beautiful depth to the carvings and the infinite level of detail. Every nook was covered with something intricate. I'll let the pictures explain:

Super happy at the Reclining Buddha

After clicking away to my heart's content (as evidenced above), we loaded up for another 30 minute drive to Phnom Kulen National Park. The temple with the Reclining Buddha is still active, so when I visited it was busy with people paying their respects for the current holiday. Originally carved into the side of the mountain, the Buddha is now covered by an enclosure with a roof and stairs, and surrounded by small shrines for donations. The view from the balcony is impressive, of the valley below and the Kulen plateau. On our way down, we stopped at the river but due to the heavy rains, the One Thousand Lingas weren't visible. Onto the waterfall, which was very much visible.

The waterfall has three levels, the top for the king to bathe in, the middle for his family and religious folk, and the bottom for the military and commoners. Because the current was so strong, I could only swim in the bottom level, and even that was tough... It was a great relief from the heat when I finally got in, though. The water was once thought to be holy because it came from Buddha's mountain and it runs all the way into the Siem Reap River and eventually the Tongle Sap Lake. Basically all the water in the region originates here, so every moat and stream in Siem Reap is holy. Cool, huh? Anyway, I clambered around on the mossy river rocks until it was time eat.

Lunch with my guide was interesting, especially to hear from the local as he felt about his country and its place in the world these days. I wish I could remember his name, but he spoke so fast that I never quite got past calling him sir. As a guide, he was certainly knowledgeable, but a bit hard to understand. I enjoyed hearing his stories and his silly jokes. I couldn't understand why he kept calling the drive to the mountain the "massage" road. Until we started up the steep, bumpy road... then I realized he was saying I'd be getting a free massage from the road. Not quite! He eventually explained how military rank equals a level of power here, but if you have enough money you can buy a higher rank, no problem. He also went into detail about the reasons why Thais and Khmer do not get along (from a Khmer perspective) and told me a personal border crossing story that was harrowing. Most people are rice farms, bur tourism and government work are also solid sources of income. All great facts that provided great knowledge for a day in the countryside.

The ride back was long, so I nodded off in the back seat on the way home. Before cleaning up completely for the jazz night at the hotel, I headed downtown to explore the night market, the bar street, and some local restaurants. I hadn't realized how completely my hotel was a little piece of heaven in a bustling tourist town. The bar street and night market reminded me of the night markets in Taipei, alive and bustling with different items to eat and places to grab a drink. I stopped for some quick food at the Red Piano (where Angie ate during filming!) and grabbed a snack for later at the Blue Pumpkin (love the ice cream). After a proper shower, I made my way over to the restaurant of the hotel for some fabulous live jazz and some mingling with local businesspeople, NGOs, teachers, and other hotel patrons. A great ambiance and some really interesting people. Every day gets better and better!

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 4)

Itinerary 

• sunrise at Angkor Wat 
• explore the complex
• breakfast at hotel 
• Phnom Thom complex 
• Bayon 
• Baphoun 
• Phimeanakas 
• Terrace of Elephants 
• lunch at local Khmer restaurant 
• Ta Prohm 

At 5:30am, I walked out of the hotel and looked up at the starry sky. Pitch black except for the bright specks of light that shone back at me and the huge moon above. Mr. Hak was waiting for me there with a nice cooler full of water for the day and fruit. Off we went to the park entrance, heading north to the edge of the huge moat, turning left around its edges as we joined the line of tuk-tuks headlights heading to the west entrance of the Angkor Wat complex. Mr. Hak had obviously done the sunrise thing before, because as I jumped out all bushy-tailed and eager, he handed me a flashlight, a bottle of water, and a cold towel. "I'll be over there whenever you're finished," he giggled as I headed to the causeway.

A muted sunrise, still beautiful

The walk across the land bridge was magical, as I looked up at the moon I realized how awesome this trip really is. Surrounded by a grand moat that wraps around the entire complex, Angkor Wat makes the Forbidden City look like peanuts. Armed with my flashlight, my camera, and accompanied by a thousand twinkling stars, I felt in my element... the start of a great day. The clouds soon rolled in and the sunrise was obscured (nothing like the professional photo shoots you see in magazines), but the moment was still amazing. The hordes were there with me at the northern reflecting pool, but among them I found an inner calm and enjoyed the morning reflection of the western profile of Angkor. Despite the people, it was still serene. I knew it would empty out after "sunrise" as people went back to their hotels for breakfast, so I stuck around to explore.

Inside the complex

I really felt like an ant crawling in a mansion. The temple is tiered, and as it has many walkways, you only realize its immensity after you cross each tiered level, the temple is higher and grander than you ever expected. I entered along with everyone from the west. According to Hindu/Buddhist religion, the west signifies death, which leads historians to believe that this temple was dedicated post-mortem to Jayavarman in order to honor his life. In any case, it's massive and impressive. As I exited the main hall to the north, I crawled up the steep steps of the library building and stopped in awe. The green grass in contrast to the misty mossy rock face of the walls simply caught my breath. 

Angkor Wat from the southern reflecting pool

I enjoyed the good part of the morning scampering across the complex and enjoying the sights. By the time 8:00am rolled around, I'd walked the entire thing and was hankering for some food. Unlike most hotels that offer a complimentary buffet breakfast, the chefs cook to order here at the Heritage. Meaning? I can get whatever I want. My omelet with red and green peppers and onion was scrumptious, as was my bacon and hash browns.

Thanks, Mr. Hak!

After the refuel, Mr. Hak took me back out to Angkor Thom, a giant walled city complex with absolutely so much to see. I got so giddy again at the sight of the south gate that Mr. Hak had to tell me to calm down and stop shaking the tuk-tuk. He offered to take my photograph at all the scenic spots (think he's done this before?) which was great as a solo traveler. After driving tourists around his whole life, it turns out he can take better photos than I can!

The Bayon is the first temple one comes to in the complex and it is a ruin with tons of hidden nooks. Also tons of tourists, so I tried to click my camera and admire as deftly as I could so I could move on to somewhere less crowded. On the top, steepest part of the Bayon, you can look down and see the sheer size of the temple below you. I was blown away at how every bit was covered with carvings and yet I was still allowed to crawl on every part. Even more than Bagan, Burma, I felt like Indiana Jones exploring some lost artifacts. 

Inside the Bayon

In my opinion, the Bapuon was the most impressive from afar, with its long walkway approach and the massive reflecting pools. From the inside, the carvings were less intricate and detailed, and the character of the temple was missing. Again, three massive tiers and a breathtaking view from the top as well. At this point in the late morning, my inner battery and my camera battery were strained, so I pushed ahead as the sun beat down.

The Bapuon from above

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas (which means celestial palace) reminded me of the Mayan pyramid temples and their place in Macchu Picchu. A dauntingly deep moat and steep steep steps kept me from climbing up, but I enjoyed the jungle shade surrounding it and the view as the sun shone down overhead. I continued to admire the day as I walked up the steps to the Elephant Terrace, imagining myself as King of the central square, minus all of the tour buses, of course. 

After stopping quickly at two smaller temples (Thommanon & Chau Say Tevoda), Mr. Hak brought me to a local place for lunch. Those two temples might have been my favorite of the day because of their intricate humility and the relative emptiness.

Chau Say Tevoda

Oh, and the Victory Gate, which Mr. Hak took me to on our way out of Angkor Thom, a massive eastern gate that I had the pleasure to enjoy all to myself. Lunch was tasty Khmer food (pronounced kh-may) with a handy helping of ginger and lemongrass. I bucked up for one more temple --> Ta Prohm: the large, famous ruin as featured in the Tomb Raider series. Well worth the trip to Cambodia alone. 

I took about two hours to explore this temple because unlike the others that were cleared of trees and vegetation, Ta Prohm still very much exists within the jungle's embrace. The roots of the large strangler fig trees entwine with the windows and walls of the temple. Tall columns lie on their sides after fighting long battles with the roots and the weather beating down on them, now covered with lush green moss. Parts of the temple are roped off, with restoration scaffolding and machinery strewn around. Elsewhere, guests are free to climb over stones, through ancient doorways still standing, and down tiny crumbled corridors. Despite many restoration projects, it still holds an undiscovered charm. 

Strangler fig tree at Ta Prohm

My walk back to the tuk-tuke came with rain, and by the time I arrived back at the hotel, I was exhausted completely. My nap was SOLID and totally restorative. The rain had finished by then, so I showered and dressed for dinner. This place is swanky, so I didn't feel out of place dressing up in heels. I did feel a little weird eating alone surrounded by couples, but I was able to write this post in peace and reflection. The meal was divine, with marinated Khmer beef rolls, served in a grilled pineapple, and melt-in-your-mouth succulent. The dessert was topped with Bailey's ice cream, so naturally, it was FABULOUS. A splendid first full day in Siem Reap. I love it already.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 3.5)

Siem Reap is amazing. And I know this from just a few hours of being here.

First of all, the reason I chose the hotel I did in Siem Reap was because of the airport-hotel transfer. 1964 Mercedes Benz, suckaaaaa! Of course the driver would think there would be two in my party ("Where is your husband, Mrs. Brosious?) so I had to drink both of the fresh, hand-squeezed, pineapple juice drinks he pulled out of the cooler.

Second, this hotel is nestled in a wooded paradise off the main drag, but still in the downtown area. The grounds themselves are a sight to see, with lush green foliage everywhere, intricate but classy woodwork, a real sense of serenity around.

And third, (this is the greatest of all), the lowest class room I booked was not available when I checked in. How is that great? Because I was upgraded to the PRIVATE MASTER VILLA!!! CAN YOU SAY LUCKY DUCK!?!

After crawling all of the compound to take pictures, arranging for my spa day on Saturday, and oogling my suite, I called the front desk for a tuk-tuk. Mr. Hak, my driver, offered to be my tuk-tuk guide for the whole trip. We set off for Phnom Bakheng for the first night's sunset.

Underwhelming for color, but impressive for scale. On the way, I saw Angkor Wat!! Sooooo many tourists were with me at Phnom Bakheng, all taking photos and chattering away in Chinese. Mostly Mainlanders, to be honest, but it was fine keeping to myself.

Note to self: wear long dresses or pants because some temples DO require more modesty. I wasn't allowed in with the shorts I was wearing, but thankfully I had a shawl I could use as a skirt. Great success!

So far, my seven hours in Siem Reap have been infinitely more relaxing and enjoyable than anything else I could have imagined. Like Myanmar, Siem Reap is to Bagan what Rangoon is to Phnom Penh. A respite from a hustle, bustle, developing city full of culture and noise. PP certainly has more "stuff" to offer, but I think that the political and economic offerings have enabled it to grow more than Rangoon. In some ways, I hope Myanmar stays undiscovered but still continues to develop. Highly unlikely, seeing the trend here with tourists enjoying Cambodia. In any case, this is a truly remarkable country.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 1)

Itinerary

• Choeung Ek Killing Fields
• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
• Magnolia Restaurant (Khmer-Vietnamese food)
• Phsar Thmei - Central Market
• Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel
• Taqueria Corona (Mexican food)
• Riverside walk
• Blue Pumpkin (ice cream & bakery)
• Foreign Correspondents' Club

I woke up to the beautiful sound of birds. You don't hear chirping birds (or any wildlife, for that matter) in China. How refreshing. 

My morning run took me by the Royal Palace, where locals exercised outside the main gate or fed the morning pigeons. Typical Asian elements were there, like choreographed dancing to canned music, fresh fruit stands, people on their motorbikes heading to work. The route went around Koh Pich Island, a desolate Atlantic City-esque place that aims to be a center of luxury but in the daytime is a little sad. Across the Mekong River, you can see high rises that remind me of China's landscape. Perhaps they're built by Chinese real estate tycoons? Nevertheless, it was still nice to get out and stretch my legs after the flight.

Aside from the glorious temples of Cambodia located in Siem Reap, Cambodia has a dark history and is known for the Khmer Rouge regime and Pol Pot. In my opinion, a trip to Cambodia and Phnom Penh wouldn't be complete without a trip to the genocidal killing fields, at least to acknowledge this country's more recent grim history and pay respect to those that lost their lives. So the Choeung Ek Killing Fields site was my first stop of the day, located about 45 minutes via tuk-tuk outside of the city. 

Remembrance Bracelets at the Killing Fields

No two genocides are the "same" but the feeling I had at the Killing Fields is the same I had when I visited the Dachau Concentration Camp. When given a belief to hide behind, people are capable of inhuman things. The difference for Cambodia is that, to my knowledge, it's one of the few genocides where the regime attacked its own people. In any case, the site is well preserved, and the $2 audio
guide was very well made, I totally recommend it. Full of history and insight, the guide provided a narrative to the sights. Listening to a still-alive survivor of the 1978 events while standing beside a mass grave once filled with over 450 innocent bodies is very moving. This atrocity happened only 30 years ago, give or take, so the history for some is very much alive today. I am glad I had the opportunity to learn more about it from a first-hand perspective.

The Tuol Sleng facility is where the victims of the killing fields were first sent after they were arrested, to be tortured, interrogated, and held captive until they were transferred. An old school converted into the Security Prison 21 (S-21), Tuol Sleng's halls and cells are now bare except for barbed wire and metal beds with shackles. When Pol Pot's regime was finally overthrown, the resistance entered Tuol Sleng and freed the seven survivors, while photo-documenting those still chained to the beds who were not as fortunate. Large prints of these victims hang on the walls in the cells, left as they were in 1979. Haunting.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

::sigh:: After such a serious morning, I tried to lighten my afternoon at a local Khmer food restaurant for some authentic dishes (and delicious coffee), and then headed over to the art deco Central Market for some retail therapy. Like typical Asian markets, the wares were cheap and bargainable, and very varied (shoes, belts, bags, clothes, cosmetics, watches, jewelry, glasses, gifts, and oh yes, raw meat, live fish and flowers). I bought some scarves, postcards, and a pair of sandals. Heading back to the hotel after a long day, I thought about how much this country has rebounded after such a momentous past. 

I had dinner with A and his wife who both work here after a number of years serving in China. The Mexican restaurant we met at had some seriously delicious food and the conversations was great. Sharing China memories and comparisons to Cambodia made it easier for me to admire this country for its accomplishments and its charm. They gave me some insider recommendations for Phnom Penh and my onward trip to Siem Reap, and it was exciting to hear about their new lives settling in. It was a true pleasure to see them again in a new setting. Although I didn't really want to say goodbye, we parted ways after a tasty meal and will certainly stay in touch in the future given this small world. 

The evening ended up with a riverside walk along the Mekong, some delicious ice cream and petit madelines, and few local beers with some other expats at the FCC. Day 1, although heart-wrenching and slightly depressing, showed me just how beautiful, diverse, and impressive Cambodia truly is.

The view from the FCC

Why Rome?

Please forgive my excitement, but maybe I'm looking forward with great anticipation to the chance to run along River Tiber and see some of this for myself:

http://whyrome.blogspot.com/2013/09/biking-down-by-river-in-rome.html

Ahh!! :)

Wordless Wednesday (Burma)

100 Days

People in the Foreign Service are planners. Before FS folk bid on a place, they research the post extensively, including everything from schools and driving to the availability of dish soap and kitty litter. We have an entire office dedicated to providing guidance and planning information for our transfers. Once at post, we work off of to-the-minute Outlook calendars and weekly countdown meetings, taskers and hourly schedules for incoming visitors. Especially in the OMS world, organization is the key and the MO of our daily lives. So with that knowledge, I present to you:

The Countdown Spreadsheet:

Someone waaaaay before me created this spreadsheet and I heard about it through the BFF when I got to post. Simply plug in your start and end date and the spreadsheet tells you how many months, weeks, days, hours, minutes and seconds you have left in your tour. I can see this being potentially dangerous for people who have awful tours, but I only ever looked at this once or twice during my time here. Once at about the 1-year mark, and then more recently when I realized I was coming up on 100 days. Well folks: I have 100 days and counting left in Shenyang...

Honestly, it's gone by so fast. The comings and goings of people. The happenings of large events and parties. Trips and excursions and getting lost along the way. Shenyang 2011-2013 is 3.32 months from over for me and I can't believe it. True, I've had hard times and heartbreak that make November 2013 seem long in coming, but the absolutely great times, great memories, and great friends throughout have made it the best anyone could have expected out of a first tour. I wouldn't exchange it for the world!

Fourteen weeks is still a long time, and I am glad for it. I'm not ready to leave yet and I have some things to check off before I go. Some of them include:

• A road trip to Changbaishan, the glacier lake along North Korea's border (mid Sep)
• An adventure through Cambodia, to visit friends in Phonm Penh and tour Siem Reap and Angkor Wat (end Sep- early Oct)
• A Halloween pub crawl to leave my last mark on the bar scene in Shenyang (end Oct)
• A final visit to Beijing to get my last set of clothes made and bid farewell to the capital (mid Nov)
• A massive Thanksgiving party to rival last years' extravaganza (end Nov)

Plus, having just witnessed the crazy amount of farewell gatherings for my colleagues here in Shenyang, I can guess that the last two or three weeks will simply be PACKED full of dinners, lunches, and outings to say goodbye (in addition to the official duties like packing out my apartment and checking out of the office). 

In the meantime, I have really been enjoying looking on the bright side of life lately. R mentioned to me that perhaps it is the weight lifted from my shoulders of no longer worrying about saying goodbye. Instead of fretting to eek out precious moments here at post, I am actively making plans to reunite with the people who left in their new habitats. That excitement, in addition to the weekend's beautiful weather, has me feeling simply buoyant. I'd like to hold onto this summery glow of basking in the worry-free sun forever, but I know that just as autumn and winter will soon tumble down upon us, my impending departure date will also creep up faster than I can imagine.

Here's to 2,404 2,402 more wonderful hours in Shenyang!

Summer in Shenyang and Some 'Merica Lovin'

The city of Shenyang has two major seasons: summer and winter. Most people reading into Shenyang hear a lot about the harsh winter, which lasts about 6-7 months from late October to mid April. You can look back into the archives to hear me go on about the climate during that season, but I can sum it up in one word: frigid. Spring is short, about 6 weeks in May-June, and the weather pleasantly surprises us all, especially after being frozen for so long. I missed part of it this year when I was on R&R, so it seemed even shorter for me.

Compared to the rest of China, summer in Shenyang is mild. Unlike the southern cities of Guangzhou and Shanghai that experience heavy bouts of rain and the oppressive heat & humidity, Shenyang stays fairly dry except for the intermittent thunderstorm. Even Beijing experiences temperatures in the mid-90s and exceptionally high humidity. Out of all the Chinese cities I've visited in the summer, I prefer Shenyang's climate to all of them. I often say that we see more blue-sky days here than any other city in the country (which is not to say we don't see our fair share of smoggy days, but they are interspersed with clear days more often).

The Consulate gets pretty busy during the summertime, having come unfrozen after the deep dark winter. We get more official visitors, more visa applicants, and a slew of incoming/outgoing officers. The turnover is palpable. It's also a season of events, with the annual Independence Day Celebration and this year, the upcoming Liaoning Games (China's own version of the Olympics). Needless to say, in the midst of preparation, hails and farewells, I've been busy.

America the Beautiful
Photo credit: C. Stein 2013

The July 4th Event planning starts very early, back in March, with theme-choosing, vendor solicitation, and invite-sending. Thankfully, we have a lot of hands-on officers who help coordinate different tasks. By the day of the event, almost everyone at the Consulate has contributed to the party in some way. And it truly showed this year -- we had a fabulous event.

We held the party at a recently-opened luxury hotel in Shenyang, and every element was coordinated down to the finest detail. From the food and flowers to the tourism vendors, an extreme amount of attention was paid to perfection. And as one would expect, the result was an event that went off without a hitch. Having experienced two July 4th parties in my tour here, I can say that we took all the lessons learned from last year's party and improved greatly on the outcome. If anything, I hope that we set the bar for next year's pretty high.

Incredible food spreads & flowers
Photo credit: C. Stein 2013

In addition to the official party held by the Consulate (for official contacts), the local AmCham branch held a party down in Dalian for Americans, expats, and local Chinese involved in the AmCham community. A group of us from the Consulate headed down for a night by train to attend. Although there was a good amount of travel involved for just a one-day event, I felt refreshed after heading down there. I felt the same feeling at the family party held by one of the Consulate families in the suburbs. For a few hours, we felt like we weren't in China. We were among other Americans, listening to a live American music, enjoying fresh clean air, and eating hearty American food with our friends. To end the both nights, there were even fireworks. I echo others in saying that this brought a tear to my eye.

Fireworks in Dalian
(iPhone)

I'm normally pretty sentimental about patriotic things, but this specific moment, watching fireworks and celebrating July 4th in China, was super important to me. For some background, last year, I was blessed to be able to spend July 4th with my family at home in the USA. I had the chance to watch amazing fireworks not once, but twice! First with my mom and stepdad at the Midway Fire Station in Doylestown, PA and then again with my dad, sister, brother-in-law, and extended family down at Ocean City, NJ. The whole experience of coming home after a year abroad was emotional, but being back on our nation's holiday as an employee of the US government, that filled me with a sense of pride that I hadn't experienced before.

On a daily basis, I don't actively think of myself as a representative of America abroad. I live my life as I wish, with a subtle subconscious reminder that I am a government employee. Yes, it's obvious to just about everyone in this city that I am not local. They don't know that I'm an American, though. I could just as easily be French, Canadian, German, or Russian. But when I was in America for July 4th last year, I wanted to shout at the top of my lungs: "I AM AN AMERICAN! I LOVE MY COUNTRY!" Whether it was the sense of freedom and liberty I was feeling, or the fact that I could walk into Walmart and choose from 25 different kinds of pasta sauce, I knew I loved the US.

My love of country amplified a hundred times being outside of America for its birthday. Americans can easily forget how great their country is when they live there. The convenience of everything. We truly are lucky as Americans to have what we have and access to so much more (information, goods, opportunity, you name it). I am so thankful to have the chance to come home every two years to "repatriate" and immerse myself in the good ol' American culture. During the time at home, I think we (as Foreign Service folk) come to realize how proud we are of the US and it helps us recommit to our mission to represent/protect this great country abroad. It also gives us a chance to realize what is truly important to us in life, whether it's family, friends, fresh air, or freedom.

So here's to you, America. Happy 237th. You're one classy broad.

Happy Birthday, America
from Cabby

Australia: Melbourne

Bell's Beach

A city and suburb that knows how to do culture. If I had to compare it to the truly "great" cities out there, I'd say Melbourne is the Philadelphia of Australia. Hah, guess I'm biased though. ^_~ This was my longest stop throughout the entire trip. I scheduled four nights, five days here, and for good reason. My first desire: drive the Great Ocean Road. Night one and two were spent in the suburbs staying with another colleague who works at the Consulate General there. In order to facilitate the logistics, I rented a car and fulfilled my desire. Day two was spent along the southern coast of Australia, admiring the natural beaches, rock formations, and waterfalls. I love driving, so it was a great pleasure for me to get back out behind the wheel. My Holden Commodore suited me well and we enjoyed the coastal towns of Apollo's Bay, Lorne, Airesley Inlet, and of course Bell's Beach (of Keanu Reeves fame). 

My ride!

Melbourne - Australia's Philadelphia

 The next two nights were spent downtown, at the luxe and environmentally friendly Vibe Savoy, where I was conveniently upgraded to a corner room king suite because I'm awesome (dudes, fill out their surveys!). Lets see, the city had so much to offer, I couldn't choose what to do first. But I managed to fulfill all my other desires: the Shrine of Remembrance, the Botanical Gardens, the Exhibition Hall, Queen Victoria Market, Flinders Street & alleyways, Federation Square, the Museum of Moving Art, and ::gasp:: Hosier Lane. Oh! So fabulous. I could have spent another week in Melbourne but sadly I had to head home. 

Hosier Lane Street Art

The Exhibition Hall

Australia: Sydney

Iconic.

Breathtaking.

Memorable.

When you ask someone what they think of when you think of the city of Sydney, 9 times out of 10 they're going to mention the Opera House. There's no doubt why: its the focal point of the city and harbour. Understandably so, it's absolutely gorgeous. I met up with M, a colleague from The Embassy, and we explored every facet of the Opera House on a behind the scenes tour. Highly encouraged; also, we had the luck to tour it while the Sydney Philharmonic Orchestra was rehearsing Camille Saint-Saëns' "Symphony No. 3 (Organ Symphony)" One of my favorites. My ears were in bliss. The natural acoustics of the amphitheater require no artificial projection. It's truly a masterpiece and showcases the music in all it's glory. Another highlight of my (too-short) time in Sydney was the bridge-climb. M looked this one up and so glad she did. The three-hour tour included us donning jumpsuits sans accessories (no watches, bracelets, cameras, or anything that could fall off) and climbing through the inner structure of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, all the way to the top. The panoramic views of the skyline, harbour, and opera house were breathtaking. It's moments like the one we had on the top of the bridge when I realize how lucky I am to be in the Foreign Service. I'd never get this experience otherwise. Certainly such a realization required celebration, so we headed to The Rocks area for a bite to eat and some liquid nourishment. My only wish for Sydney was that I had longer to spend there. 

New Zealand: The North Island

Wellington from the sky

Wellington: a hipster town nestled into the mountains surrounding a breathtaking bay. On first arrival by ferry, Wellington seems very busy, with cars lining the highways and people bustling about. Perhaps as the nation's capital, it has a reason to be busy. The scene is pretty hipster and has tons to offer in terms of food and drink. While there, we continued our gastronomic feast through New Zealand and ate at some solid restaurants, only topped off by some fabulous drinks ( including home-brewed cider and mulled wine). The atmosphere reminds me of Hong Kong, harbour city that's kinda funky with an edge. Windy Welly was the first real stop where the schedule had nothing planned. As such, we took it easy: visited Te Aro Museum, the Botanical Gardens, and Cuba Street. The runs were hilly and the scenes were generically pretty. While in Wellington, we stayed at Kikki's place, an AirB&B apartment. Knowing the perils of AirB&B, this was a risk. However, it turned out Kikki's place was just as lovely and convenient as advertised. And damn, the bed was comfy!

Downtown Wellington

A view of the Wellington Harbour

Auckland B&W

Auckland: a superbly accessible city that's hip without being TOO hipster and beautiful to boot! I preferred Auckland to Wellington for the same reason why Shenyang is better than Beijing (wait, what? Did I just say that?) Wellington was busy and full of "stuff" to do, but Auckland had real character. The people in Auckland were genuine and took themselves less seriously than the capital people. Now, that's all given the fact that all Kiwis are more genuine and laid-back than any other population I've ever met. Anyway, like Wellington, Auckland also has its hills (gorgeous botanical gardens) and its harbour (biggest marina in the Southern Hemisphere) but in my opinion, it's a much better designed city. The neighborhoods are accessible and the culture is thriving. Lots to see, eat, and drink: so we did! Did I mention it has a huge harbour? Happened to take a spin on an America's Cup racing boat and it made me decide: Auckland is definitely my favorite real city in New Zealand. I'd move here in a heartbeat! While we were here, we stayed in the funky and chic Hotel DeBrett and it was worth the cost to be in the heart of town and surrounded by up-to-date luxury. Divine!

The Domain

A view of the Auckland Harbour while sailing

Best meal of the entire trip

Viaduct Harbour at sunset

The War Memorial