Thanksgiving Memories

Thanksgiving seems like both yesterday and ages ago, but for good reason. Yesterday because the entire day was filled with such wonderful memories; ages ago because the last seven days have been out of this world. But more on that in the next post. Now, to reflect a bit. Thanksgiving was my last day in Shenyang. My first tour of two years, culminating in my favorite holiday with a handful of the people I love. I planned it that way, of course. ;)

When I was scheduling my departure in my TMTWO itinerary, I had the option of leaving 30 days +/- my original arrival date at post. Since I arrived in Shenyang on November 30, 2011, I could leave as early as 11/1 or as late as 12/30. Departure dates are a negotiation between the losing post (Shenyang) and the gaining post (Rome), but because I am not going directly to Rome and instead going to training, my departure was a bit more flexible. My official Italian training starts in February, and I was able to schedule in about a month of other training before that to fill up the month of January. But there was no way that I was going to stay at post an extra month and miss the holidays with my family. Plus, I had to fit in my congressionally-required 20 work days of home leave. So that backs us up a bit to late November. Since I was planning to make a few stops en route to Philadelphia, I was faced with the decision of spending Thanksgiving on the road in an airport or spending it at home in Shenyang with family. Naturally, I chose the latter option.

Having already packed out 99% of my stuff, I felt a bit incapacitated as the day approached. R & P had offered to host an intimate Thanksgiving meal with six of my closest colleagues/friends. But without my pots, pans, and baking ingredients, how was I supposed to contribute to this fabulous meal? Thankfully, everyone opened up their apartments and their hearts to me, allowing me to mix my leftover ingredients with their pantries' and assist with the menu planning. What would I do without these people?

True to form, R & P came up with a fabulous lavender-infused brine and rub for the turkey, and planned out a multi-course meal that absolutely was one of the best. Evenings like this are the essence of living in Shenyang. In a place where luxury is often hard to come by, we have to find our own ways of enjoying the good life. Simple ingredients are often unavailable, and intricate meals take a good deal of planning. I hoarded a can of cream of mushroom soup for 4 months in preparation for the green bean casserole I made for this meal, knowing when I saw it randomly in the supermarket in Beijing that I might not see it in Shenyang in the weeks to come. Can't find your trusty can of French's Fried Onions? Thanks to the internet, I made my own crunchy, pan-fried onions. Grocery store doesn't sell sweet potatoes? How about buying them from that guy on the corner down the street who roasts them from his own garden in the countryside… In Shenyang, you've gotta be creative. That's what I love about this place. I'm proud to have survived and live the sweet life with these people.

Around about noon, I walked over to the Crowne to start cooking with R & P. R greeted me with fresh-squeezed orange juice (because he's an OJ snob and loves pulp) and champagne, with which we toasted the BFF via Skype. Without her here, Shenyang Thanksgiving isn't fully complete. However, by videoconferencing her in, it felt a little better. I'll copy the full menu below, but my contributions were as follows: - green bean casserole with fried onions - rosemary roasted butternut squash with pine nuts - pumpkin spice frosted cupcakes

Thanks to everyone for letting me use their casserole pans, cookie sheets, cupcake tins, and pantry items; it was a great success because I had your help. Cooking my last meal in Shenyang with my best friends was a huge treat for me. Not only was I doing the thing I love best in the house (baking/cooking), but I was doing it with the people love and that made it super special.

Nomming our way through the afternoon, we team-efforted dinner to completion around 5:00pm and ate right on time. Everything, was absolutely delicious. Like I mentioned above that it takes a bit more preparation and planning to put on a great meal, the hard work makes it that much tastier. Whether its the recipes, the chefs, or that extra ingredient of hard work, the meal tasted divine. I had a moment of bliss as I sat there and looked around, the wasabi/pear-apple cranberry sauce dripping over my garlic mashed potatoes, listening to these wonderful people compliment and describe what they were eating in the most genuine of ways. Perfection!

After dinner, we had a dessert intermission with some hooting: guitars and ukeleles were brought out and the classics were sung. "Shenyang, Shenyang" and "Don't Stop Believing," the two local anthems. Although this time, there was a twist. Just as Ms. M had prepared a song for J upon his departure, she fashioned a song for me to that famous Journey song (lyrics below). Almost in tears, I couldn't imagine anything better, but of course that wasn't the end of it. P had one-upped herself in creating a departing scene with Photoshop to help commemorate my first tour and my time in Shenyang (picture below). Needless to say, I was floored. Perhaps the humor doesn't translate over the internet, but these two items mean more to me than words can describe. I'm so happy to have the opportunity to serve here, in this cold town, with these awesome people.

This year, I am thankful for so much. For my family, who is patiently waiting for my return home and with which I will get to spend the holidays. For my friends, old and new, who support me through this crazy life by being there for me in person and digitally. For my career, which has granted me endless opportunities to learn, travel, and explore this grand earth. And for my health, without which none of this is possible.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 4)

Itinerary 

• sunrise at Angkor Wat 
• explore the complex
• breakfast at hotel 
• Phnom Thom complex 
• Bayon 
• Baphoun 
• Phimeanakas 
• Terrace of Elephants 
• lunch at local Khmer restaurant 
• Ta Prohm 

At 5:30am, I walked out of the hotel and looked up at the starry sky. Pitch black except for the bright specks of light that shone back at me and the huge moon above. Mr. Hak was waiting for me there with a nice cooler full of water for the day and fruit. Off we went to the park entrance, heading north to the edge of the huge moat, turning left around its edges as we joined the line of tuk-tuks headlights heading to the west entrance of the Angkor Wat complex. Mr. Hak had obviously done the sunrise thing before, because as I jumped out all bushy-tailed and eager, he handed me a flashlight, a bottle of water, and a cold towel. "I'll be over there whenever you're finished," he giggled as I headed to the causeway.

A muted sunrise, still beautiful

The walk across the land bridge was magical, as I looked up at the moon I realized how awesome this trip really is. Surrounded by a grand moat that wraps around the entire complex, Angkor Wat makes the Forbidden City look like peanuts. Armed with my flashlight, my camera, and accompanied by a thousand twinkling stars, I felt in my element... the start of a great day. The clouds soon rolled in and the sunrise was obscured (nothing like the professional photo shoots you see in magazines), but the moment was still amazing. The hordes were there with me at the northern reflecting pool, but among them I found an inner calm and enjoyed the morning reflection of the western profile of Angkor. Despite the people, it was still serene. I knew it would empty out after "sunrise" as people went back to their hotels for breakfast, so I stuck around to explore.

Inside the complex

I really felt like an ant crawling in a mansion. The temple is tiered, and as it has many walkways, you only realize its immensity after you cross each tiered level, the temple is higher and grander than you ever expected. I entered along with everyone from the west. According to Hindu/Buddhist religion, the west signifies death, which leads historians to believe that this temple was dedicated post-mortem to Jayavarman in order to honor his life. In any case, it's massive and impressive. As I exited the main hall to the north, I crawled up the steep steps of the library building and stopped in awe. The green grass in contrast to the misty mossy rock face of the walls simply caught my breath. 

Angkor Wat from the southern reflecting pool

I enjoyed the good part of the morning scampering across the complex and enjoying the sights. By the time 8:00am rolled around, I'd walked the entire thing and was hankering for some food. Unlike most hotels that offer a complimentary buffet breakfast, the chefs cook to order here at the Heritage. Meaning? I can get whatever I want. My omelet with red and green peppers and onion was scrumptious, as was my bacon and hash browns.

Thanks, Mr. Hak!

After the refuel, Mr. Hak took me back out to Angkor Thom, a giant walled city complex with absolutely so much to see. I got so giddy again at the sight of the south gate that Mr. Hak had to tell me to calm down and stop shaking the tuk-tuk. He offered to take my photograph at all the scenic spots (think he's done this before?) which was great as a solo traveler. After driving tourists around his whole life, it turns out he can take better photos than I can!

The Bayon is the first temple one comes to in the complex and it is a ruin with tons of hidden nooks. Also tons of tourists, so I tried to click my camera and admire as deftly as I could so I could move on to somewhere less crowded. On the top, steepest part of the Bayon, you can look down and see the sheer size of the temple below you. I was blown away at how every bit was covered with carvings and yet I was still allowed to crawl on every part. Even more than Bagan, Burma, I felt like Indiana Jones exploring some lost artifacts. 

Inside the Bayon

In my opinion, the Bapuon was the most impressive from afar, with its long walkway approach and the massive reflecting pools. From the inside, the carvings were less intricate and detailed, and the character of the temple was missing. Again, three massive tiers and a breathtaking view from the top as well. At this point in the late morning, my inner battery and my camera battery were strained, so I pushed ahead as the sun beat down.

The Bapuon from above

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas (which means celestial palace) reminded me of the Mayan pyramid temples and their place in Macchu Picchu. A dauntingly deep moat and steep steep steps kept me from climbing up, but I enjoyed the jungle shade surrounding it and the view as the sun shone down overhead. I continued to admire the day as I walked up the steps to the Elephant Terrace, imagining myself as King of the central square, minus all of the tour buses, of course. 

After stopping quickly at two smaller temples (Thommanon & Chau Say Tevoda), Mr. Hak brought me to a local place for lunch. Those two temples might have been my favorite of the day because of their intricate humility and the relative emptiness.

Chau Say Tevoda

Oh, and the Victory Gate, which Mr. Hak took me to on our way out of Angkor Thom, a massive eastern gate that I had the pleasure to enjoy all to myself. Lunch was tasty Khmer food (pronounced kh-may) with a handy helping of ginger and lemongrass. I bucked up for one more temple --> Ta Prohm: the large, famous ruin as featured in the Tomb Raider series. Well worth the trip to Cambodia alone. 

I took about two hours to explore this temple because unlike the others that were cleared of trees and vegetation, Ta Prohm still very much exists within the jungle's embrace. The roots of the large strangler fig trees entwine with the windows and walls of the temple. Tall columns lie on their sides after fighting long battles with the roots and the weather beating down on them, now covered with lush green moss. Parts of the temple are roped off, with restoration scaffolding and machinery strewn around. Elsewhere, guests are free to climb over stones, through ancient doorways still standing, and down tiny crumbled corridors. Despite many restoration projects, it still holds an undiscovered charm. 

Strangler fig tree at Ta Prohm

My walk back to the tuk-tuke came with rain, and by the time I arrived back at the hotel, I was exhausted completely. My nap was SOLID and totally restorative. The rain had finished by then, so I showered and dressed for dinner. This place is swanky, so I didn't feel out of place dressing up in heels. I did feel a little weird eating alone surrounded by couples, but I was able to write this post in peace and reflection. The meal was divine, with marinated Khmer beef rolls, served in a grilled pineapple, and melt-in-your-mouth succulent. The dessert was topped with Bailey's ice cream, so naturally, it was FABULOUS. A splendid first full day in Siem Reap. I love it already.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 3)

Itinerary

• Crêpe Mania - OPEN!
• Russian Market
• Wat Phnom
• Brown's Coffee Riverside
• Airport transfer to Siem Reap

Sleeping in was a great idea. The morning view from my canopy bed was stunning, with blue skies and temples. ::awe:: So beautiful and serene.

They don't call it the Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel for no reason

I retried going to Crêpe Mania and it was definitely worth going back. The owner said that they were doing a photo shoot the day before for a new menu, so I was glad to have the chance. First, great music soundtrack. I had to keep pulling out my phone to Shazam songs I liked but hadn't heard before. Yay for new mellow music!

My delicious breakfast

Second, what IS it with Phnom Penh and all the good food?? So tasty I couldn't get enough. I had the Madame, like a croque-monsieur plus an egg, wrapped in a tasty whole wheat crêpe. I'd totally come back here a dozen times to try all the types of sweet and salty/savory flavors they offer. A great place to read the newspaper too... PS I need to find another word other than "great" because I obviously use it too much here in Cambodia.

The Russian Market: just another Asian market. BUT, more "real" than the Central Market that is geared to tourists. Locals were shopping here, getting their hair done, buying groceries, and bartering for home goods. There were some incredible colorful photo opportunities in the fabric section and I
bought some souvenirs for the family. I still can't get over the fabrics and silks. Absolutely stunning and in every color imaginable. I bought one today and three yesterday. I know I won't be able to choose which to give away as gifts.

At Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom was a small and slightly run down temple, but perhaps that's because it's still used quite a bit. I enjoyed looking at the bronzes and it was certainly a taste of things to come in Siem Reap. Located on the phnom/hill that the city was named for, this wat/temple is situated at a roundabout, one side of which faces the U.S. Embassy. A newish complex that seems massive compared to the Consulate in Shenyang. Perhaps a future tour in Cambodia? I think yes...

I had a quick lunch at Brown's Riverside location with a local woman I met at the Central Market and her two adorable children. Interesting conversation as well. Her advice? Although unsolicited: life is better with children and without men, since blood will always be thicker than love. Woof! I didn't ask too many questions but I can bet there are some stories behind that!

More iced drinks!

After a hot and dusty tuk-tuk ride to the airport, plus a quick 45-minute plane ride, I landed in paradise. COMPLETELY. I could go on and on about Siem Reap... for another post.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 2)

Itinerary

• Will's Cafe
• National Museum of Cambodia
• Friends Cafe - Closed
• Crêpe Mania - Closed
• Brown's Coffee and Bakery (cafe food)
• Royal Palace
• Hotel
• Deco (Modern American food)

A much tougher run today, not as refreshing as yesterday. But what can you do? I can't control everything. 

Dragon outside the National Museum

After yesterday's intense itinerary, today's was more in the historic realm. My first stop after a fab brunch was the National Museum, which is literally a few blocks from my hotel. I really wish I could have taken photos inside because the artifacts were so impressive. I snuck a few with my iPhone (shh! don't tell!) but there was even beauty in the building itself, so I did admire the architecture and its lush courtyard. Hot as balls with no air conditioning, though with frequent shaded bench breaks and meditation moments outside, I survived. Inside, a room with hundreds of different Buddha statues was the most impressive, all in different sizes and variations of poses. Statues and carvings throughout were staggeringly impressive, yet the museum itself is humble and uncommanding.

I tried a few places nearby for lunch but because of the upcoming holiday, some places were closed. Ended up at a coffee joint suggested to me for a delicious local drink: iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. It threw me into such a state of relaxation that I ended up just chilling there to eat a light lunch. My waitress was so floored to hear that I was American but I chose to visit her country from China. She asked how I had heard about Brown's and was giddy to learn that a foreigner had recommended it to me. The simple things in life. The chicken pesto sandwich was delish (seriously, like so close to Cosi's the memories came rushing back) and it filled me up just enough to get me through the next leg of the day. Brown's is a great place to whittle away the two hours I had until the palace opened after lunch. Oh, and everywhere here has free wifi! Just ask for the password.

Intricate roof of the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace itself is a massive white building with tiered roofs and intricate tilework, but the grounds are even more impressive and large. Unfortunately, as I was buying tickets, I heard the ever-familiar drone of Mandarin Chinese. When I realized I would be sharing the space with a whole bunch of Mainlanders, I sighed. But to be honest, the place was big enough that I could avoid them easily. Gilded buildings all over with many awnings, a couple hundred carvings, and sculptures dotting the gardens. Everywhere one looked, another beautiful building to explore. There were even monkeys around, chirping at tourists who brought snacks like bananas or oranges. Quite the photo op!

Nomnomnom

I tired quickly with the grating company of the Zhongguoren and the heat of the afternoon sun. By 3, I was puckered out and in need of some water. Although my hotel was still only 100m from the palace entrance, it felt like a marathon to walk there in the sweltering temperatures. I collapsed on the bed once I arrived, but before I fell asleep, I donned my bathing suit and made my way up to the rooftop pool deck. There, I quick dove in for a swim and promptly passed out on the lounge chair. Almost two hours later, my body somewhat rested, I made my way back to the room to prep for dinner.

Waiting for Gatsby

The Advisor (a weekly local magazine) had rave reviews of a fairly new-ish restaurant called Deco. Small, precise menu but lauded for the fabulous drinks. No convincing necessary here! I made a reservation (for 1, so sad!) and hopped in a tuk-tuk over to the southern part of town. Totally worth the hype for the cocktails and the food was tasty too. I asked for more flatbread to mop up the delicious yogurt spinach lentil dish I started with, but I would have used my fingers it was that good. After two well-crafted drinks made with a hefty amount of gin, I would probably have enjoyed anything though. The music was great and the ambiance was totally Great Gatsby-esque. I had no problem heading to bed early with the hope of sleeping in a bit for my final day in Phnom Penh. 

New Zealand: The South Island

Please enjoy my photo-journal of New Zealand's South Island! More photos of the South Island to come via Facebook, and next up an entry on the North Island. Enjoy!

All photos taken by me via Canon Rebel T3i with a EF-S 18-55mm lens, aka my best purchase ever
^_^ Enlarge for full enjoyment!

Queenstown Airport: Your gateway to beauty

Queenstown - An adrenaline city with a fabulous view alongside a crystal clear lake. As my first impression of New Zealand, Queenstown definitely tops the list for coolest city out there. I definitely recommend taking the cable car up to the top of the mountain for a breathtaking view of the lake and the city below. If it's clear night, the company also offers star gazing tours and complimentary hot chocolate. The guides were super knowledgeable and it was neat to see constellations that aren't visible in the Northern Hemisphere, including the Southern Cross. In the fall, the visitor traffic was light, which made for enjoyable, laid-back touristing; however, with all the restaurants and bars available, I could vividly imagine what it would be like in the thick of winter when the snow season is in full swing. I did my first run in New Zealand here along the route through the Gardens. If I had more time, I would have liked to run along the water on the path heading back up toward the airport, which looked to be beautiful as I drove in. While we were there, we stayed at the Alpine View Backpackers and it was my first hostel experience: a clean & quiet lodge-style joint just outside of downtown with a separate bathroom shared with 1 other room.

Lake Wanaka: Picturesque in Autumn

Wanaka - Another adventure town with lots to offer for the newly addicted or long-time adrenaline junkie. Wanaka is a short (1 hour-ish), scenic, cheap ($35) bus ride away from Queenstown and totally worth the visit to see the picturesque town and Lake Wanaka. The city has a good number of walking/hiking trails and serves as a good jumping off point for other excursions (paragliding, kayaking, horseback riding). The downtown area is really only two or three streets, but there are a wide variety of different food options available. The i-Site is located right on the lake front and it has a ton of information for things to do. The staff are supremely helpful and will do their best to make reservations for whatever adrenaline-pack activity you want to do. We hung out there while we waited for the bus to take us horseback riding. The city has a handful of pubs and cafes along Ardmore Street with great views of the lake in the morning and evening. We stayed at Holly's Backpacker and it was also clean and very quiet, with a full kitchen and living area. The dorm-style bathrooms were well-kept, and the bed was comfy enough.

Cardrona Valley: From the bus window

Cardrona Valley - Located in between Queenstown and Wanaka, Cardrona Valley is a filled with wide open farms and rolling, green hills. Blink and you'll miss the town as you drive through, but Cardrona Hotel is worth a peek even if only for a pit stop and a picture in front of the classic hotel. I don't know about accommodations there, but the hotel is located in the middle of nowhere so it is not that convenient for anything else. The wait staff were eh, and the food was so-so, but the beers on tap were many and quite refreshing. We stopped their briefly before touring the valley via a 2-hour trek on horseback, which was a fabulous way to see the scenery and landscape. I definitely recommend doing something in the valley to get a closer look at the beautiful environment.

Christchurch - This is a city still very much in repair.  My morning run met with many closed roads, destroyed buildings, and reconstruction. The Gardens are worth a jog through and once the city center is rebuilt, it's supposed to be the most modern city ever. But it has a long way to go. Since by this point we had picked up a car, we drove over to visit Pomeroy's Brewery for dinner and drinks, both of which were fabulous. Enjoying the live jazz music was also a plus; this place felt like it was the corner place for a variety of locals and everyone was having fun. While we were there, we stayed at the City Central Motel Apartments, which were newly built and well-designed. Aside from stopping here, there's not much to see... yet.

Pegasus Bay

Mud House

Waipara Valley = Wine central! A must-see if you have time. There are plenty of good wineries to stop at and all of them could keep your arteries pumping with delicious nectar. We just so happened to turn off a side road and visit Pegasus Bay Wineries, which had an expansive estate and gardens to tour. The staff were helpful, but reserved during the complimentary wine tasting and we ended up picking up a bottle each and a guide to the valley. Mud House Winery and Restaurant had been on our list of vineyards to see and both the wine and the food exceeded our expectations. The staff were extremely helpful in explaining their offerings, the history of the winery, and the background of the valley itself. The tasting was complimentary because we planned to have lunch there, so the wine kept on flowing until we had to stop! Note: make sure to have a bite to eat before, during, or after your wine tastings -- even if you've only had a sip of all the wines offered, you'll need some sustenance before getting back on the road. As we found out, May-June is post harvest time, so while the offerings were vast, the wineries were quiet. If you're dying for a tour of the wine cellar while it's active, make sure to schedule your trip during the harvest season, which is earlier in the year.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walk

Kaikoura - Wow. Quite possibly the most beautiful landscape I've ever seen in person. Imagine: craggy ocean shore with pebble beaches and wind-swept chest-high grasses. High cliffs edged with fields of the lushest, greenest grass you've ever seen. Herds of healthy, glossy cows idling lazily along the rolling expanse of soft green. All of this is in the foreground while the Seaward Kaikoura Mountain Range stands in the distance, a panorama of snow-capped peaks that tower above a peaceful valley below. Kaikoura is a small town located on the peninsula that sticks out from the eastern coast of the South Island. Because of the ocean currents and the ocean floor, it is also home to a vast amount of sea life, including seals, dolphins, whales and albatross.

Seals along the coastal car lot

Every corner was a "wow" moment and it certainly goes down in my book as my favorite natural city in New Zealand. While you're there, enjoy the landscape, take a whale/seal watch tour on a boat or kayak, or do as we did and fly a helicopter up into the mountains for a birds-eye view of the peninsula. A must-see if you're driving through. While we were here, we stayed at the Aspen Lodge, a fairly modern motel with high-tech showers and wonderful balcony views of the coast.

Blenheim - First, let me say that the drive through Malborough Region was phenomenal. Kudos to my

Malborough wine country

copilot for his patience with me, not only stopping every time I had a "wow" scenery shot, but asking him to be my backup photographer while we drove. But in the end, he and I both got some great shots and enjoyed the scenery around us. Blenheim is like Waipara Valley in the amount of vineyards around. We only happened to stop at one (Withering Hills) and unfortunately, the wine, food, and service were not that good. The views, however, were fabulous and if anything, they made the stop worthwhile. If I had more time, I would have liked to schedule a wine tour of the valley, but I suppose that means I'll have to come back!

Nelson

Nelson - A small town located along the northern coast of the South Island that reminded me in a way of Reading, PA (with much better views of course). The town was quaint and the people were pleasant enough. There isn't much to do in Nelson specifically, so it's not worth a long stay for the activities it has to offer. Craft beers, on the other hand, are in ample supply and the restaurants do their best to showcase the variety. We stayed at the Tasman Bay Backpackers, which was picturesque, colorful, and superbly managed. There was a full professional kitchen, fireplace lounge, and free unlimited wifi. We used Nelson as a stopping point for our early morning trek the next day to:

Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park - Quite a hike (literally)! The southern entrance to the park is about 1 hour from Nelson by highway and then a small country road. In the summer, this park the ultimate destination for hikers and backpackers. Unfortunately, the tides weren't in our favor and we didn't have get too far into the park before we had to get on the road again. But the sunrise was absolutely beautiful! In the summer time, I would love to come back and kayak along the coast.

Queen Charlotte Highway: A view from the car window

Picton - Tiny port city where the main draw is the ferry terminal. If you have the chance to drive in (and are a confident driver), do so by the Queen Charlotte Highway that runs along the northern part of the island. Absolutely stunning views of the sounds and a fun, windy road with tons of switchbacks. Many thanks again to J for his patience with me stopping for pictures along the way. It was helpful to get out and stretch after some white-knuckle driving along the steep, curvy paths. Once we got to town, we had a tasty brunch and strolled along the town (which is really a two-by-two grid of places to eat and buy touristy goods). The Interislander Ferry is not cheap ($100+/person), but a reliable way to get to Wellington. As they advertise, it's also a destination in itself, if only for the fantastic views of the sounds as you make the trek over to the North Island...

The Interislander: Onward to Wellington and the North Island!

Wazigou - A trip to the village

China is a great, big country. Like America, it is a country with a great deal of geological diversity, from the far western dry deserts to the hot and humid southern coast, to the northern steppes and the rocky eastern coasts. Although most people choose to travel outside of the country to regain one's inner peace, visiting China's non-cities can also be rejuvenating and extremely adventurous. Once you get there.

This weekend, a group of us from the Consulate decided to take a two-hour road trip to a small village called Wazigou 瓦子勾, known for its rural home stays 农家院. The BFF & husband, along with J & J had been there before, so this was a return trip to the countryside for them. For the rest of us, this was our first experience in touring the Dongbei's rural homes and sleeping on a kang.

Despite our best efforts of getting out of Shenyang at a reasonable hour, heavy traffic, crazy construction, and absurd detours prevented our anticipated timely arrival in Wazigou. However, once we finally got onto the highway, it was smooth sailing to the village. Driving in China's cities can be extremely frustrating; on the other hand, driving on the highways is actually pleasant since most of them are newly built and empty of traffic. The trouble lies in the maps that advertise highways before they're actually finished, which is often the case in China. Needless to say, it's always an adventure driving anywhere outside city limits.

Our patient driver and co-pilot

On our way, the boys got hungry, so we stopped at the first establishment we saw off the highway that offered food. After inspecting the kitchen's stocked ingredients and negotiating with the cook, two guys in the group ordered us a feast! I'm not the most adventurous eater, so naturally I'm always skeptical when trying out new places. But these guys knew what they were doing and every dish was quite tasty.

Our feast!

After lunch and a bit more driving, we made our way to our home for a night. For those who aren't aware, a rural home stay normally involves a villager family opening their homes to guests (normally rich Chinese or foreigners like us) in a bed-and-breakfast style. The Dongbei-style home stay also includes sleeping on a kang, basically a stone slab bed that's heated from within. In the winter months, kangs seem like a brilliant idea. Toasty beds covered in blankets and pillows to keep you warm. But without all the blankets and pillows to soften the hard concrete? I was skeptically looking forward to seeing what all the hoopla was about.

Our home stay was nothing fancy (most things in China aren't), but provided a good respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. We settled into the second floor balcony overlooking the countryside, drank some beers, and read a bit. The rain came in and out for a good hour, but once it cleared up slightly, we headed down to the reservoir geared up with a baseball and football, fishing pole, and of course, more beer. I wish I had been able to take some photos of the beautiful lake, but the rain came back once or twice and would have been bad for the camera. Once the rain passed, the skies opened up and the sun heartily warmed us. By the second hour, the stresses of Shenyang had left us behind and we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves.

The gang's all here!

Dinner was being served at 7:00, so we headed back in anticipation of our special order. While the home stay did provide regular dishes, we had also called in advance and specifically ordered a whole roasted lamb for our group. While the sun set behind the mountains and provided a beautiful ending to our day, everyone was looking forward to dinner. When it finally arrived, it was go-time!

They named her Mary. 

What's the best way to end a night in a nongjiayuan? With a hootenanny, of course!

Shenyang's hoot, coming to you live from Wazigou

We followed that with a bit of a stroll "downtown" to serenade the neighbors, meet the locals, and enjoy the stars. A great night of fun, lots of laughs, and GREAT company. Couldn't have been a better weekend.

After a rough night of sleep on the kang (not very comfortable, by the way), the BFF, A & I laced up and went for a run around the reservoir. Again, I wish I had brought my phone to take pictures, but it was nice to be unplugged and able to unwind. Worked our way up some killer hills, and got a good leg workout in. This was the last long run in preparation for next weekend's activities, and so the taper begins.

Post-run breakfast was perfect, with everyone pitching in some goodies: freshly roasted coffee from R, delicious raisin scones from M, spicy & fragrant tea from the BFF, and some brie & crackers to top it all off. All in all, the trip out to the village couldn't have been any better. It's experiences like this that remind me why I love the foreign service and why I am so lucky to be among such amazing people friends.

Wazigou 2013 -- don't stop believing.

Dandong

Sorry the blog's been quiet lately. April has been a busy month, with visitors, travel, and work. I hope you enjoyed Mom & David's guest posts while they were in China. I sure enjoyed their visit here and am so happy that they made the trek out to Shenyang to see my side of the world. Playing tour guide was a great opportunity to see China from a newbie's perspective, like when I first became enamored with this big country, the culture, and the language. After a consecutive year and a half in country, I'll be honest when I say that some of the charm has worn off and I've become a bit cynical about China. But deep down I will always have a fascination with the Middle Kingdom and its deep history. No better way to rekindle that fascination than showing family all the awesome things at once. The food, the sights, the sheer size of it all; China has a lot to offer. Thanks again, M&D, for coming out, spending time together with me, and being fantastic travelers. It isn't easy to travel in China and I give you lots of credit for sticking with it and staying optimistic when it got frustrating. Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did!!

A week or so after M&D's trip to China, a group from the Consulate headed to Dandong. For those who have never heard of this city before, Dandong sits at the China-North Korean border along the Yalu River. For most Chinese citizens, it's the closest they'll ever get to the DPRK and thus, a tourist attraction. Visiting Dandong has been on my list of things-to-do and so this trip was by all means a success!

We had a caravan of four cars heading down, some families and some younger officers like myself. The ride was quick (about 2.5 hours), simple (a straight highway shot), and scenic (as scenic as Northeast China can be). Once we got there, the amazement of seeing North Korea was fulfilling, as it was a grey, blustery, and rainy day, just about as desolate as I had imagined the border to be. The group stuck together for a good part of the day, touring the major sites. These included:

The Yalu River

The Broken Bridge (bombed by the US during the Korean War)

The Hushan Great Wall 

Yi Bu Hua (one step across)

After touring for a while, three of us headed to our hotel to check in. We were staying the night so we could experience Dandong nightlife and see the Museum of American Aggression in the morning. We met up again with the families at a fantastic Korean barbecue restaurant and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves to start the night. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the dance club: Zhen Ai 真爱 or "Real Love," but I can summarize it in four words. LED Hydraulic Dance Floor. Simply awesome.

Oh yeah, Korean food.

The following morning was beautiful, with a bright blue sky and sunshine. It gave me hope that spring was coming. I took a run along the river walk, from our hotel in the southern part of the city back to the broken bridge. Being outside in the warmth of the sun was refreshing and it made me miss running along the streets of Philadelphia. After a decent brunch at the hotel, we checked out and made our way over to the museum.

I had heard from other officers that the museum was basically a propaganda show, filled with explanations of how the Chinese were peaceful big brothers to Korea and it was the big bad aggressive Americans who came in and ruined things. Well, a good deal of the museum was devoted to just that.

Click on picture to enlarge: it says, "She's happy because her husband is a POW."
Don't think that ever really happened.

Visiting the museum was in part a humbling experience, and the information presented there did give me pause to think about history from a different perspective. All in all, I am glad I visited and the memory of the museum and the city as a whole will stay with me for a long, long time. To all who plan to come to China: if you have the time, I strongly recommend a visit to Dandong.

Mom & David: Conclusions on China

Sitting here at home, reflecting back, it seems hard to believe that David and I really were on the other side of the world just ten days ago.

We only got to see the smallest bit of the country, so really aren’t qualified to talk about China in general. But for us, the main things we do remember most are the amazing numbers of people in the urban areas we saw, the fantastic food, the shopping, and the majesty of the Forbidden City and Great Wall.

People - You know how crowded it feels when you walk down the street in Manhattan or in Times Square? Imagine that New York City is well below Beijing on the “world’s biggest cities by population” lists. Reminds me of those subway rides! Thank Goodness for Ca and the “Get off in 3 stations” method!

Food – I seriously don’t think we had a bad meal! Now I understand what people mean when they have said “Chinese food in America isn’t real Chinese food.” Well, that’s true, but I think both can be very good. We loved the subtle sauces and the variety. Delicate dumplings with yummy fillings…Ca showed us all the best things.

Shopping – I am still striving to understand how much VOLUME there is. Good Lord, one wouldn’t think there would be any pearls LEFT to sell in the rest of the world. Just yesterday we were walking through Lambertville and stopped at a favorite jewelry store window. Darn!! Staring me in the face was the same type of beautiful pink quartz that we didn’t buy (but should have). Hah!! It’s worth the plane ticket just to go shopping! Right behind that display was a similar strand of pearls in the beautiful combination we saw there, white with cream with gray with golden pearls. Aahh, like I said, seeing everything so accessible makes one greedy! Needless to say, I’d have to empty the bank accounts to buy the same pearls here in the US!

Great Wall: It was a dream of mine to stand on the Great Wall. When you do, you can not help but be amazed by the enormity of it. I think about the people who built it. Ironically, we saw a documentary about it the other day and were still amazed by the fact that hundreds of slaves would produce up to a mile of wall a day of a wall that was 20 feet high. Amazing numbers of people to achieve that. Our guide, Ming, explained how the “mortar” in some places was actually a mix of sand, RICE powder, and other things. I like to think about what was going on in Europe at the same time the Forbidden City was being created. We are so fortunate to be able to travel to all these places and see the history preserved.

We were so lucky to see China with Ca. Honestly, I don’t think we would have felt so secure or able without her. It’s a big place and a little a LOT intimidating if one doesn’t know the language. Thanks to the best tour guide and hostess ever! We promise we can manage in Rome and the rest of Europe with less guidance!!

David Does Shenyang! Day 2: "A Perspective"

Shenyang: In a word ~ busy, colorful, cold, snowy, bustling, open and friendly.

Following a very long flight from Detroit to Beijing and then to Shenyang, Deb and I were at the baggage claim carousel merely looking to grab our stuff and head out to the wilds of Shenyang.
Instantly, it all became more than worthwhile when we saw beautiful Ca, a big bouquet of flowers and an even bigger smile welcoming us to Shenyang.  Tears, laughter, hugs, kisses and smiles ensued.

We were carried away to her home at The Somerset. Following more tears, laughter, hugs and kisses, we settled in for a well-deserved coma at her lovely apartment.

Easter Sunday morning greeted us with snow.  Perhaps a more accurate description would be slush, followed by puddles. Undaunted, we went for shopping, snacking, exploring and getting a feel for the city.  Larger than one would imagine. Much.  It's a city certainly "under construction" with cranes and new buildings at every turn.  Ca explains that some of it is due to China's Olympic games held here later this summer. Other 20+ story buildings are what we'd all call "spec."  Great looking, full-service, modern places, all looking for tenants.  My guess is that it's a case of "If you build it, they will come."

The folks in Shenyang are very open, pleasant, helpful and friendly.  Ca's command of Chinese, however, was essential throughout our sightseeing, food ordering and getting around.

We had dinner with no less than a dozen State co-workers last night.  It could best be described as Sichuan ~ again, lots of great food shared by all.  Spicy, varied and delicious.  Great company of friends.

We lunched today at (believe it or not) at a Korean shop that Ca had recommended highly ~ even before we left for China. Korean bibimbap is an absolutely delicious culinary treasure. Simultaneously simple and complex, it's a combination of vegetables, bean sprouts, carrots and many other ingredients placed over rice in a HOT ceramic pot and an egg is cracked over the concoction.  The heat of the food and the pot itself cook the egg which is then mixed into other the yummy ingredients. Comfort food extraordinaire!

Our visit to the U. S. Consulate today will surely be remembered as a highlight of the trip that we're only half-way through.  We met privately with the Consul General and were then introduced to most of the staff. We're certainly proud of Ca; she and her co-workers do good things.

Deb and I went out afterward, locally, to explore on our own and had a very nice eight-story department store in mind ~ perhaps a city block away.  Who knew the store we actually wanted was right next door to the store we entered?  A half hour of looking for an exit and finding the entrance with very few English signs and international symbols, we found our way into the right store.  Here too, very friendly, helpful folks assisting two clearly lost window-shoppers were nearly everywhere.

A KFC across the street beckoned Deb and I (believe it or not).  They had coffee, fries and best of all, pictures of food! Lots of nodding, smiling, and charade-like movements, and we were happily back at Ca's who (typically polite) was very understanding of our "adventures in misadventures" this evening.

Back tonight for a delicious hot shower and (no doubt) another excellent and well-earned coma. Photos of all of the above ~ and then some ~ are sure to follow.

Mom Does Shenyang! Day 1:

Written by Mom:

What is your first impression of Shenyang?

Wow...when you leave the airport in Shenyang, it feels slightly like a war zone.  Dusty, concrete, almost like, well, a war zone or deserted apocalypse movies you've seen.  Then, as you approach the city, you see the overwhelming amount of new construction.  Huge skyscrapers, like the Miami real estate boom.  Only it's not Miami.  Ca told us about the Chinese love for festive, gaudy lighting...you have to see it to believe it!  Twinkling lights, almost like Christmas overload, are EVERYWHERE.  And it stays that way all year long.  Vibrant blues and pinks, crazy neon colors everywhere.  In the trees, on the buildings, wow.  It's a really large city, but you can not tell that by looking out the window.  I suppose it's the air that limits your view to the distance, kind of foggy all the time.

We noticed right away that we really were the oddity and that's an interesting feeling.  People do stare at you, but in a friendly way.  We had more than a few occasions when complete strangers would come over and start chatting!  No care on their part that we were staring at them like deer in the headlights.  I was mistaken for a Russian, but I suppose there are a lot of Russians here.  Having a Shenyangese man speaking Russian to you in the North Market is kind of fun!  It was good to have the knowledge to be able to answer back.

The market is something to see!  Amazing fish and aquarium supplies, then upstairs to the jewelry.  Man, if Beijing is better, you better pull out your wallet!!!  Amazing amber, jade of all colors, white, red, and of course, green.  Pink Opals.  Love, love, love. Pottery, beautiful scrolls on and on and on.  We're holding up on the shopping because a little bird told us there is MORE in Beijing.  I am loving it.

What has been your favorite dish so far?

That is hard to say...the dumpling place was amayyyzzing.  Everything there was to die for.  Probably best was this combo of eggplant wrapped around a small slice of beef and then dipped in batter and fried lightly like tempura!  (oh yeah, with the little shrimps in it too!) AND the broccoli / carrot stir fry.  Now I see what the Chinese restaurants at home are trying to represent!  and it is darn good.  Best of all, we ate like kings and spent a total of +/- $20 for everybody.  Crazy!

How does it feel to be an American in Shenyang?

I felt different, and we clearly were seen that way.  That's a new feeling for me! People were so friendly, and curious to talk to us, or try their English.  The faces were always smiling, even if not a word was understood.  For certain you realize that the high end life pictured in Shanghai or Beijing is not exactly the norm in Shenyang.  We are so fortunate to live as we do.  I think we really take our material life for granted.  The things we consider "normal" are considered luxuries in a lot of the world. Hanging out with the FS people too makes one aware of the great people, great smarts, and great ambition these folks have.  They really are the best and represent the US in such a wonderful way.  I'm proud of my country and always feel it more when I'm out of it.

Full day #1 and we are really pleased to see where Ca lives and works.  It is truly what she said - "the real China."  Wouldn't miss a minute.

Hotpot: the Chinese fondue

When I first came to China back in 2006, I was a wary eater, fearful of trying anything new. Those who know me from the States know that I grew up as a very picky eater. If it didn't look appetizing, odds are I probably wouldn't eat it. That summer in China I lost a considerable amount of weight because I was so skeptical of Chinese food. How foolish. China has a host of delicious dishes that I crave nowadays. One of these is hotpot (in Chinese 火锅, huǒ guō, literally "fire" "pot").

Haidilao Hot Pot - delicious!

There is a chain in China called Haidilao Hot Pot that has mastered the cuisine, and it's probably the only hot pot restaurant I'll go to by choice (unless I'm dragged to a C-grade leather-meat Sichuan hot pot restaurant against my will ;). They've perfected the art of hotpot, and thought of everything. Most Haidilaos have full amenities for waiting guests, including nail salons, day cares, computer stations, shoe shiners, and wet bars. The service is the best I've come across in a Chinese restaurant chain, with courteous and well-trained wait staff. Waiters seat you around a table with a hole in the center, supplying you with an apron to don in order to protect your clothes. If you have glasses, they'll give you wipe cloths; if your hair is down, they'll give you a hair tie; if you have long sleeves, they'll give you cloth arm protectors. Seriously.

Once you've gotten the menu, the decisions are up to you on what you want to dip into boiling broth. Most of the time I get a half-and-half broth (as seen above): half spicy, half tomato-based, both delicious. The menu is divided up into meats (beef, pork, mutton, etc), fish (ehhh), veggies, tofu, etc. Sooner than you'd expect, they bring you bowls and plates of the items you ordered, along with the cauldron that fits in the table with the bubbling soup inside. Once the liquid is rolling, the waiters will spoon off a bowl of tasty tomato soup for you to sip on while you get settled. In my opinion, the best thing about hot pot is the next step: the sauces.

The Shenyang Haidilao is massive. It takes up most of the sixth floor of a shopping mall just down the road from where I live. Inside, I estimate there are over 150 tables and private rooms. Each mini-section of seating has its own condiment/sauce bar. Before you start throwing your selected dishes into the hotpot, you have the chance to mix your own sauce to dip the goodies in once they're cooked. I normally make two sauces. The first is your basic soy/vinegar/garlic sauce, but with a bit of chives, coriander, sesame seeds, and chilis added in for flavor. The next is the sesame sauce, complete with (normally too much) garlic, chives, and peanuts. A turned me on to the peanut idea. When I saw him dump a bowl of peanuts into his sesame sauce, I was skeptical (as per normal). But, like in most things, turns out he was on to something. Now I can't refrain from getting my own bowl of peanuts to dump into my sesame sauce. Turns out I can eat it all on its own without dipping anything into it but nuts. :P

So by now your broth is boiling and all of your dishes are on the table, ready to be loaded in. I normally order two plates of meat, like beef and pork with some dumplings as well. You can't go wrong with some tofu, either in long strips or in thick frozen blocks. As for veggies, the broccoli is standard, but lotus root, spinach, and potatoes are good too. Some people like the shrimp goo, but that's one thing I can't get into. Mashed-up shrimp guts squeezed out of a puff pastry bag and puffed up into shrimp cheetos doesn't look, sound, or taste like my kind of yum. But all the rest of the dishes are amazing. And as is normal for Chinese eating, it's hard to gauge how much you've eaten. Whether it's because of the rotating lazy susan or because you're concentrating on fishing your meal out of a boiling pot of oil and broth, you forget how much food actually ends up on your plate. Needless to say, I'm always stuffed after hotpot, having gorged myself on tasty meat and veggies. Haidilao, you've done it right. Here's a toast to you, for filling me with yummy boiled goodness. Two thumbs and two chopsticks up!

Burma Day 5: Yangon

I don't have a problem having a "me" day. Today's been that kind of day. I woke up in the mid-morning range, and meandered down to the Asian buffet breakfast that the hotel provides. I could get used to these Burmese fried noodles. Good thing they don't make them in Shenyang.

Poolside. The hardest decision I've made today is whether to turn over now or in 10 minutes. It's a hard life when that's your biggest worry. I mean, it could be worse, I suppose. I could find it more difficult to decide whether I want a margarita or a piña colada. But I'm pretty sure I want the margarita with my caprese salad and samosas. The pool waiters must think I'm a glutton because I ordered both of these dishes; I didn't expect to get 8 samosas though. In Shenyang, we only get 2 per order!!

Alas, eventually I must get up from my lounge position. I am meeting R & D at the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in the city center at 5:00pm. This is my last tourist stop before my midnight departure back to Seoul and then Shenyang. We plan to meet at the east gate and then explore the complex together. From what I've heard, it's the biggest attraction in Yangon, so here's for saving the best for last!

-/-

While I was walking to the pagoda, I realized that there is a great deal of diversity in the Burmese population. Although the majority of the people here would call themselves Buddhist Burmese, I have met and seen many Muslims and Indians as well. There are churches and mosques, temples and pagodas everywhere. Freedom to practice and belong to whichever faith one believes in. It's refreshing, especially coming from China. And once again, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda is a living temple, with people coming to present their offerings at one of the many different shrines in the complex. Aside from the tourists, there are young families with children, old couples, Buddhist priests and students, all worshipping side-by-side in this holy place. 

So I definitely saved the most splendor for last! Shwe Dagon did not disappoint. As we walked up the interior steps to the elevated temple, I couldn't stop thinking how amazing the last 5 days have been. Certainly the most exciting trip I've ever been on in my entire life. The people, the sights, the sounds, the tastes, and even the smells have been one surprise after another. Who knew a country like this could hold so many adventures? Burma is a hidden gem and I encourage all of you to visit if you have the chance. I'm already planning my return trip.