Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...