My Love-Hate Relationship with China's Weather

9th Floor Deck

Today I write you from the luxury of a comfortable wicker chair on the ninth floor deck of my apartment building. The sky is the shade of blue you find in a children's book on primary colors. The clouds are few, but when they pop up in the sky, they are big and fluffy like cotton candy. The temperature is warm and yes, I'm sweating, but I am thoroughly enjoying the glisten on my skin because it means I just might be getting some color on my skin. It's August and I haven't worn my bathing suit at a pool once this summer, or dipped my toes into warm water at the beach. I'm envious of my friends back home who spent three day weekends at the shore, soaking in fresh sun with fresh, salty beach air and the screams on happy children. Here in Shenyang, the ambient noise I hear is cranes creaking, horns honking, and the soft rumble of hundreds of air conditioner units.

But you know what? I'm in a minor state of bliss right now because the planets have aligned and the weather conditions seem perfect. Well, relatively perfect. It is China after all.

The View From the Street: Fluffy White Cloud

When people hear about Shenyang, the cold weather is the most common characteristic that comes to mind. And that's about right, since six months out of the year, the weather falls into the "winter" category. But what about the other months? In my opinion, May and September are the best months in Shenyang. May brings spring and the blooming of flowers and trees, along with crisp breezes and warming temperatures. September is solidly autumn (my favorite season ever) and the leaves (where you can find them) change to yellows, oranges, and reds before falling off in the brisk wind. It's a season of sweaters and knits, scarves and boots. In these months, the air is also at its best, with the air quality generally low, give or take a few consecutive days of smog. If Shenyang only has weather like May through September, it wouldn't be such a bad place.

But the smog is unpredictable. Now that the consulate has its own air monitor, we know just how bad the air can be, at any given hour of the day. As much as we try to guess what tomorrow or the weekend will bring, the air quality index (AQI) can vary drastically from one hour to the next. Yesterday for example, the consulate management team sent out a morning warning that the AQI was high, about 350, and to limit outdoor activity. The written notice only confirmed what I hade earlier realized by myself, waking up with a sore throat and tight chest, and looking out on a haze-filled city landscape. But by 4:00, the skies were as clear and blue as they are today, and our air monitor read an AQI of 26. We sat outside for a CG meet-and-greet and then later a few of us had a drinks outside in the cool evening light.

Shenyang: High AQI vs. Low AQI

There is a very tangible reaction to the weather and air quality here in Shenyang. When the AQI is bad and the weather poor, I notice myself and others are more irritable, more likely to complain. Fewer people walk home, ride their bikes, stay outside. There are weeks when the pollution is consistently bad, and the tension rises to a point where people get together more to increase their spirits. It is very necessary to let off steam, as they say. But, when the AQI is low and the weather gorgeous, I can't help but smile and rejoice. Everyone seems happier and more easy-going. We joke that we are not in Shenyang at all, because this is such a rare occasion. It is such a refreshing feeling to sit outside today and enjoy the vitamin D and the soft breeze while reading a book. It happens so infrequently when the stars align that I feel the urge to make something of it. Every precious hour of blue sky day and clear air must be taken advantage of in some way.

And only now, when the sun has gone behind the skyscraper apartment building next to mine, do I feel like it is okay to go back inside to my apartment for a while. But I could put on my running shoes and go for a long run outside, couldn't I? Any chance to soak up more sun and more fresh air...