Packout and China Familiarity

Sitting here in my empty apartment and it is finally sinking in. I'm leaving Shenyang forever. The time has come to say goodbye and I have to say that I don't feel ready. Two years went by so fast; within a blink and it was gone. It seems like just yesterday that I arrived all fresh-faced and eager to start. But when I sit and think about it, the waves of memories come rushing back. It has been a great tour here, and the people certainly are the best thing about this post.

Packing out this time was much easier than my first experience almost two and half years ago. Now I know what I need to have with me when I am at FSI and what I can say goodbye to for another eight months until I get to Rome. Thankfully, I underestimated the size of my UAB (unaccompanied air baggage) and was pleasantly surprised when the packer coordinator asked if I wanted to add anything else, since I had about 100lbs more. Yes, please! I'll add some more baking supplies, shoes and clothes! The rest of everything else is non-essential, like my books and decorations. I shipped the leftovers of my consumables via HHE (house-hold effects) since in Rosslyn I'll be able to get anything I want at the local stores.

All in all, 37 boxes later, I felt a wave of relief. There's nothing like saying goodbye to ALL OF YOUR STUFF and being as light as two suitcases and a backpack. I'll probably also ship some personal boxes by mail with my spices and my winter coat, since although I won't need a coat in Hawaii, I will need one when I get back to Philadelphia later in December. The packout process also allowed me to pair down a good deal of junk. I donated a few bags of clothes to the consulate staff as well as about 25 pairs of shoes (about 1/3 of my shoe collection). Some things should have been given away before I left for Shenyang, but ended up collecting two years of dust instead. Thankfully, now much of the excess has been given to others who could use it.

Pulling out clothes and packing my suitcase for three climates was slightly tricky, given that I will be in hot, tropical weather in Hawaii, cool and windy weather in Phoenix, and then cold and wintry mix in Philadelphia. But amazingly I did it! Only packed about 12 pairs of shoes, so that's actually not too bad. ;)

Leaving China hasn't really sunk in yet either. I've spent almost my entire educational life and most of my career focused on this country, so transitioning to an Italian mindset will be a challenge. I've talked with other officers who also come from an Asian-studies background and they agree. After a tour in China, being comfortable with the culture and language and history, moving to a new country, climate and locale can be intimidating. But also refreshing for a lifetime student like myself. I'm kind of nerding out about the idea of going back to school full time to study a language. What other career can you get paid for studying Italian as part of your job (and then go live in Italy)? Not many...

As the days tick down, I have a few more things to do: final going-out night in Shenyang, Chinese food tour around town, and an intimate farewell Thanksgiving with friends. I'm looking forward to all of it and catching up with people before I head out. On the horizon after that?? Sunrises, sunsets, and scenery in paradise....

A Dongbei Halloween

Life has been crazy for me these last two months. October was a WHIRLWIND and as November starts, I have entered my LAST MONTH in Shenyang. Who could believe it? Certainly not me.

Autumn is my favorite season, both at home and in Shenyang. Thankfully, I had the opportunity to spend a bit of time in both, for better or worse. After a great trip to Changbaishan in September, I had a quick trip back to PA to spend time with my family. Upon returning, I jetsetted off to Cambodia for absolutely the best trip of my life to date. The pictures don't do the country justice, but I'd go back in a heartbeat for another chance to explore that lush, green jungle. After Cambodia, the ball really started rolling at the Consulate and work was crazy.

With a new batch of colleagues and friends, the pace and the tone of the Consulate has changed completely. And naturally so. I enjoy seeing the difference in how people work, and as R so eloquently put it one day, it shows that everyone can succeed in the Foreign Service. Whether you are outgoing and charismatic, introverted and focused, or somewhere in between, I have seen people of all categories get to the top levels of the FS and come out on top. I like that kind of flexibility and the promise that I can fit in somewhere too.

To celebrate this wonderful season of new beginnings and things to be thankful for, M hosted the most fabulous Monster Mash and Birthday Bash ever. I enjoyed prepping for this Halloween party immensely. At the last minute, I changed my costume for this particular event. With an idea in mind, I went all out after being inspired by a local Dongbeiren. For those of you who don't know, I live in the part of China known as the Dongbei 东北 which means literally east north, or northeastern China. Dongbeiren, or dongbei people, are a hearty breed of Chinese with some fashion sense that could be described as... all or nothing.

Whether it is glittery and rhinestoned skull t-shirts, studded and spiked platform chunky boots, 1/2" thick nude tights with leather shorts, or copious amounts of cat print, anything goes as long as it's all out (bonus points for matching with your significant other). Once I knew what I had in mind, I couldn't stop seeing potential outfit essentials everywhere. I was shocked at every corner because I wanted to buy just ONE MORE THING to make an essential set. As the party drew near, I had finally assembled the entire outfit, much to my satisfaction.

2D and 3D Dongbei Cat Print!!!

From the shoes to the glasses and contact lenses, everything I wore on Halloween was cat print. Everything. Even my fuzzy, gem bedazzled, glittery purse. The problem? When I went to the club, no one knew I was in costume!!! Oh China! Shenyang wins again!!

Un-ironic local Dongbeiren at the club

Books, Books, Books

This is perfection to me.

"Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's too dark to read." - Groucho Marx

"So many books, so little time." - Frank Zappa

"A room without books is like a body without a soul." - Marcus Cicero 

Before the BFF left post, she left her mark on our Consulate community in a big way. Not only on all of our hearts as a lovely person, a dear friend, and great leader, but also by establishing a healthy group of fellow book lovers. From what I've gathered, the Foreign Service is full of people who love to read. We spend a lot of our day reading (cables, memos, emails, news) that it would seem normal if all we wanted to do when we got home was anything BUT read. Yet, I think for many of us a good book can transport us somewhere else entirely (like our hometown, a familiar neighborhood, an adventure, a love story). At least for me, reading helps me cope with the feelings of homesickness, loneliness, the sense of being ungrounded, unsettled that occasionally come along with this career path. Reading also helps me learn about new cultures, future travel (and living) locations, and inspires me to continue my own adventures. I also love reading books suggested by other people: not only does it provide me with a glance at what's interesting to them, but it also shines light on what they think might be interesting to me. A great bonding tool for people to get to know one another.

Here in Shenyang, we've got two kinds of book clubs, both started by the BFF. The first book club I've ever participated in is comprised of other avid readers who work at the Consulate. We meet monthly to talk about a book we've picked amongst ourselves in advance. People originally submit their ideas for book club books, we present the list to everyone, tally a vote, and the top 5 or so become the next books to read for the coming months. Its a fairly democratic process, and I've often found myself voting for books that weren't the books I originally suggested. The book club has covered everything from War and Peace to Redshirts, 1Q84 and Cloud Atlas to Behind The Beautiful Forevers. The last book we read was The Book of Mormon Girl, by Joanna Brooks. As someone who knows very little about the world of Mormonism, I was very interested to read this one and hear from a few book clubbers who are Mormon themselves. By far one of the most interesting (and largest) discussions we've ever had, the last meeting was a perfect example of why this club is great for getting to know our colleagues. I learned so much and the conversation was refreshing, eye-opening, and very instructive. September's book is The Astronauts Wives Club and then later in November (my last Shenyang book club! ::tear::) I'll be excited to read The Telling Room: A Tale of Love, Betrayal, Revenge and the World's Greatest Piece of Cheese (which is totally my pick, evident because of the cheese, nom).

The second book club is a bit different. The Public Affairs Section often holds Thursday Night lectures on topics of interest, hosted by officers from the Consulate. My colleagues have presented lectures on sports, American sports, music, coffee, American universities, and much more. The audience is local Chinese students and English-language learners who want to practice listening and speaking. From one of these lectures started a book club for Chinese students to come in and discuss a book with an American officer. Well, just yesterday I hosted one of these on the book Farenheit 451, by Ray Bradbury. A controversial book even for some Americans, 451 talks about a dystopian society where firemen burn books instead of putting out flames. Books are banned because they make people envious of what they don't have (knowledge, power, money, rights). The government controls people through television and consumerism, and leaves little room for creativity and free thinking. Needless to say, in a country where censorship is dominant throughout the media, I was curious how the book would be received. The discussion was lively and all the readers had different thoughts about interpretation and implications of a book like this. The underlying tone seemed to be that Bradbury's tale is a cautionary one, and everyone seemed to agree that we as humans have a great responsibility with knowledge its power.

I'm curious to know what everyone is reading these days. Leave a comment below and tell me what I should read next!!

The Joys of Driving in China

Recently, the weather has been perfect in Shenyang. You've read my post on the back-and-forth nature of the weather here, so it's been a pleasure to enjoy some fresh air, clear blue skies, and mild temperatures. The other night on my way home from work, I rolled down the window and said, "Goodness! It's a great night for a drive!" So I drove around the corner to a nearby park and parked the car next to the lake to enjoy some tunes. Why didn't I actually drive around town, enjoying the nice air? Well, because driving in China is anything but relaxing.

A group of us with the Panda on the way to Dandong

Earlier this summer, I got my Chinese driver's license and agreed to share a vehicle with a colleague at the Consulate. He purchased a hand-me-down vehicle from a former Consulate employee, a cute 5-speed mini car affectionately known as the Panda. Actually, it's a imitation of the Fiat Panda, made by Geely, a Chinese car manufacturer. But to be honest, it actually does look like a panda because it's white with black accents.

I truly enjoy driving, especially a manual transmission vehicle. This winter, I look forward to going back to the US to drive my pickup around the rolling hills of Bucks County. In the meantime, I'll roll my windows down as I drive down Nanjing Jie and imagine I'm driving along the Delaware River instead of across the Hunhe. In China, the thrill of driving is less relaxing, but certainly exciting in a different kind of way. Mainly because you never know what to expect.

To start, let's talk about driving etiquette on the roads. There is none. Since many Chinese drivers are only recently licensed, they've logged very few hours behind the wheel. There is no mandatory driver's education and no road test to be licensed. From what I've heard about the written test, the questions are also kinda bogus and unrelated to the real conditions of driving. Another point to keep in mind: in Chinese traffic law, it's the vehicle that impacts the other car that is at fault. So it makes (some) sense when Chinese drivers merge into traffic and they don't look behind them to yield to other drivers. No looking---at all. Even if they were hit, the accident wouldn't be their fault.

When I drive on the roads here, what keeps me sane is 1) knowing that I'm probably more experienced than the majority of drivers on the road and 2) imagining I'm playing a car driving video game. The video game isn't one of those that you race for the best time around a track; it's one of those that you have to swerve and manoeuvre around obstacles and pedestrians that come out of nowhere. Because people do just walk out into the street out of nowhere. The other day a woman walked into the street on a red light (at least she was in a crosswalk) on her cell phone and texting. Six! lanes of traffic stopped for her. Incredible.

At least downtown, the roads are easily navigable with street signs and traffic lights. Shenyang has seen a good deal of construction as of late due to the summer Olympic Games in Liaoning. But the city has done its part to pave and beautify the streets throughout town. The connections to the highways exiting the city are a different story. Our trip to Wazigou back in April was delayed by 2 hours trying to find an on-ramp to the highway that is listed on the maps as being open. Unfortunately for us, the highway wasn't open at all, and so it took a massive detour to get us out of the city. Fortunately for us, we were among the best of friends and it was a grand adventure. Once you make it to the highway (if you ever get there), the high-speed roads are fantastic. Well built and empty, there is relatively no traffic on the highways connecting the major cities. Chinese don't really use the highways as a mode of transportation between major cities because trains and planes are cheaper than owning a car. This might change in the future, but for now it's relatively relaxing to drive on the highways in China (that relative is to the frustration of driving in the city).

I write this entry as I start to plan a weekend journey via Panda to Changbaishan. With just about 6 hours of driving on roads that aren't yet on maps, I hope to have another entry that continues the theme. Wish me luck!

My Love-Hate Relationship with China's Weather

9th Floor Deck

Today I write you from the luxury of a comfortable wicker chair on the ninth floor deck of my apartment building. The sky is the shade of blue you find in a children's book on primary colors. The clouds are few, but when they pop up in the sky, they are big and fluffy like cotton candy. The temperature is warm and yes, I'm sweating, but I am thoroughly enjoying the glisten on my skin because it means I just might be getting some color on my skin. It's August and I haven't worn my bathing suit at a pool once this summer, or dipped my toes into warm water at the beach. I'm envious of my friends back home who spent three day weekends at the shore, soaking in fresh sun with fresh, salty beach air and the screams on happy children. Here in Shenyang, the ambient noise I hear is cranes creaking, horns honking, and the soft rumble of hundreds of air conditioner units.

But you know what? I'm in a minor state of bliss right now because the planets have aligned and the weather conditions seem perfect. Well, relatively perfect. It is China after all.

The View From the Street: Fluffy White Cloud

When people hear about Shenyang, the cold weather is the most common characteristic that comes to mind. And that's about right, since six months out of the year, the weather falls into the "winter" category. But what about the other months? In my opinion, May and September are the best months in Shenyang. May brings spring and the blooming of flowers and trees, along with crisp breezes and warming temperatures. September is solidly autumn (my favorite season ever) and the leaves (where you can find them) change to yellows, oranges, and reds before falling off in the brisk wind. It's a season of sweaters and knits, scarves and boots. In these months, the air is also at its best, with the air quality generally low, give or take a few consecutive days of smog. If Shenyang only has weather like May through September, it wouldn't be such a bad place.

But the smog is unpredictable. Now that the consulate has its own air monitor, we know just how bad the air can be, at any given hour of the day. As much as we try to guess what tomorrow or the weekend will bring, the air quality index (AQI) can vary drastically from one hour to the next. Yesterday for example, the consulate management team sent out a morning warning that the AQI was high, about 350, and to limit outdoor activity. The written notice only confirmed what I hade earlier realized by myself, waking up with a sore throat and tight chest, and looking out on a haze-filled city landscape. But by 4:00, the skies were as clear and blue as they are today, and our air monitor read an AQI of 26. We sat outside for a CG meet-and-greet and then later a few of us had a drinks outside in the cool evening light.

Shenyang: High AQI vs. Low AQI

There is a very tangible reaction to the weather and air quality here in Shenyang. When the AQI is bad and the weather poor, I notice myself and others are more irritable, more likely to complain. Fewer people walk home, ride their bikes, stay outside. There are weeks when the pollution is consistently bad, and the tension rises to a point where people get together more to increase their spirits. It is very necessary to let off steam, as they say. But, when the AQI is low and the weather gorgeous, I can't help but smile and rejoice. Everyone seems happier and more easy-going. We joke that we are not in Shenyang at all, because this is such a rare occasion. It is such a refreshing feeling to sit outside today and enjoy the vitamin D and the soft breeze while reading a book. It happens so infrequently when the stars align that I feel the urge to make something of it. Every precious hour of blue sky day and clear air must be taken advantage of in some way.

And only now, when the sun has gone behind the skyscraper apartment building next to mine, do I feel like it is okay to go back inside to my apartment for a while. But I could put on my running shoes and go for a long run outside, couldn't I? Any chance to soak up more sun and more fresh air...

100 Days

People in the Foreign Service are planners. Before FS folk bid on a place, they research the post extensively, including everything from schools and driving to the availability of dish soap and kitty litter. We have an entire office dedicated to providing guidance and planning information for our transfers. Once at post, we work off of to-the-minute Outlook calendars and weekly countdown meetings, taskers and hourly schedules for incoming visitors. Especially in the OMS world, organization is the key and the MO of our daily lives. So with that knowledge, I present to you:

The Countdown Spreadsheet:

Someone waaaaay before me created this spreadsheet and I heard about it through the BFF when I got to post. Simply plug in your start and end date and the spreadsheet tells you how many months, weeks, days, hours, minutes and seconds you have left in your tour. I can see this being potentially dangerous for people who have awful tours, but I only ever looked at this once or twice during my time here. Once at about the 1-year mark, and then more recently when I realized I was coming up on 100 days. Well folks: I have 100 days and counting left in Shenyang...

Honestly, it's gone by so fast. The comings and goings of people. The happenings of large events and parties. Trips and excursions and getting lost along the way. Shenyang 2011-2013 is 3.32 months from over for me and I can't believe it. True, I've had hard times and heartbreak that make November 2013 seem long in coming, but the absolutely great times, great memories, and great friends throughout have made it the best anyone could have expected out of a first tour. I wouldn't exchange it for the world!

Fourteen weeks is still a long time, and I am glad for it. I'm not ready to leave yet and I have some things to check off before I go. Some of them include:

• A road trip to Changbaishan, the glacier lake along North Korea's border (mid Sep)
• An adventure through Cambodia, to visit friends in Phonm Penh and tour Siem Reap and Angkor Wat (end Sep- early Oct)
• A Halloween pub crawl to leave my last mark on the bar scene in Shenyang (end Oct)
• A final visit to Beijing to get my last set of clothes made and bid farewell to the capital (mid Nov)
• A massive Thanksgiving party to rival last years' extravaganza (end Nov)

Plus, having just witnessed the crazy amount of farewell gatherings for my colleagues here in Shenyang, I can guess that the last two or three weeks will simply be PACKED full of dinners, lunches, and outings to say goodbye (in addition to the official duties like packing out my apartment and checking out of the office). 

In the meantime, I have really been enjoying looking on the bright side of life lately. R mentioned to me that perhaps it is the weight lifted from my shoulders of no longer worrying about saying goodbye. Instead of fretting to eek out precious moments here at post, I am actively making plans to reunite with the people who left in their new habitats. That excitement, in addition to the weekend's beautiful weather, has me feeling simply buoyant. I'd like to hold onto this summery glow of basking in the worry-free sun forever, but I know that just as autumn and winter will soon tumble down upon us, my impending departure date will also creep up faster than I can imagine.

Here's to 2,404 2,402 more wonderful hours in Shenyang!

The Chinese Belly

During the summer in China, there's no doubt that you will have a sighting of a belly or two. Chinese men young and old, large and small, often bare their bellies by pulling their shirts up over their stomachs. As far as I'm aware, the belly baring is to increase airflow and lower the overall body temperature. When walking around at lunch time, I've often seen groups of men completely shirtless while eating hot and spicy dishes. Nevertheless, I'm still amazed at the frequency and lack of modesty in all shapes and sizes. 

Never seen a Chinese belly before? Well, here are some examples for your viewing pleasure:

The Smoking Belly: A common sight in China

The Skeptical Belly: He's not so sure he's okay with this picture

The Belly Outfit: This guy dressed in his finest matching pajamas for the photo

The Seven Months Belly: On him, not her!

The Chuar Belly: Fan those coals!

What's better than a regular belly? The Belly Fondle...

The Belly with a Purse: Common sight for men to carry their lady's purse or...

Better yet, The Belly with a Murse (man-purse)!

Happy Monday!

Haters Gonna Hate: we all wish we had the confidence...