Hawaii - Oahu

PCS Transfer:
Shenyang -> Seoul -> Oahu -> Kauai -> Maui -> Phoenix -> Philadelphia

Departing Shenyang on such a high, I couldn't imagine anything better than the last 24 hours. But God has smiled down on me once again and proved that wrong. A trend that soon became the motto for my trip through Hawaii.

If you had twenty work days (or basically four weeks) of paid leave to do whatever you want with, what would you do? Armed with a set budget for flights and an open calendar, I thought pretty hard about that question when I was planning my PCS (permanent change of station) transfer. I cost constructed an itinerary that would have me stopping in Hawaii and Arizona for some adventures and sight-seeing.

Flying east from Shenyang, I figured I could stop in Oahu, Hawaii to visit my best friend and roommate from college, the Egyptian. A beautiful girl with an even more beautiful soul, she's been there for me through everything. After living together for four years, we have come to understand each other and balance out one another's quirks. Thankfully for me, she's currently stationed in Oahu with the Army as an ob/gyn doctor and was willing to have me come visit and stay with her. Super stoked, I made Hawaii my first destination.

I had never been to Hawaii before, so I really didn't know what to expect. In four days on Oahu, I saw the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, the most pristine white sand beaches, the lushest green mountain cliffs, and the clearest blue water I've ever seen in my life.
Aside from the beauty of Oahu, the atmosphere on this island has been my favorite. Known as "the gathering place," Oahu is home to Hawaii's capital Honolulu and the largest population out of the islands (although the big island of Hawaii is actually the largest in size). I visited downtown Honolulu, Waikiki, Hawaii Kai, and Kailua, on the windward coast where the Egyptian lives. Each with its own character, with Waikiki full of luxury shopping malls and fancy dining for the tourists, Hawaii Kai with its sprawling homes in the shadow of the Koko Head Crater, and Kailua, a hidden gem of a town with hands-down the best beach in all of Hawaii.

Knowing I had a limited amount of time on the island, I tried my best to pack as much as possible into my days. Here is my general itinerary and some photos to go along with it:
• Waikiki highrise sunset
• Kailua Beach sunrise and 7km run
• Breakfast at Cinnamon's
• Tailgating at Hawaii Stadium
• Dinner at Korean BBQ
• Boydo-In Japanese Temple
• Sand Island sunset
• Pali Lookout
• Mokapu'u Lighthouse hike
• Coffee Bean distributor
• Waikiki park and Honolulu sunset
• Pillboxes Trail hike
• Kailua Beach relaxing

Boydo-In Temple

Mokapu'u Lighthouse

Waikiki Beach

Pillboxes Hike panorama

Following all of this, I was able to steal the Egyptian away from work to go to Kauai and Maui for a bit of island hopping.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...

Cambodia: Beyond Siem Reap (Day 5)

Itinerary

• Banteay Srei
• Phnom Kulen
• Reclining Buddha
• One Thousand Lingas
• King's Waterfall
• Bar Street
• Blue Pumpkin
• Red Piano
• live jazz at hotel

Yesterday, I arranged a driver and a guide to take me to two of the more distant locations. I had seen photos of the waterfall and I knew it was one of the things I had to do: jump in. So we started off early; I hoped to beat the tourists to the temples.

Banteay Srei is the best example of intricate stonework and carvings. The artwork is also the best preserved in the country. Located about 30 minutes outside of Siem Reap, the temple is situated in the middle of nowhere. During the war, the complex was used a stronghold for the Vietnamese army. Today, with the skies holding back rain but the ground soaked with the previous days' deluge, the moat and the walkways were full of water, adding to the surrealness of my visit. Small in comparison to the Angkor temples, Banteay Srei is humble but absolutely magnificent. I couldn't get over the beautiful depth to the carvings and the infinite level of detail. Every nook was covered with something intricate. I'll let the pictures explain:

Super happy at the Reclining Buddha

After clicking away to my heart's content (as evidenced above), we loaded up for another 30 minute drive to Phnom Kulen National Park. The temple with the Reclining Buddha is still active, so when I visited it was busy with people paying their respects for the current holiday. Originally carved into the side of the mountain, the Buddha is now covered by an enclosure with a roof and stairs, and surrounded by small shrines for donations. The view from the balcony is impressive, of the valley below and the Kulen plateau. On our way down, we stopped at the river but due to the heavy rains, the One Thousand Lingas weren't visible. Onto the waterfall, which was very much visible.

The waterfall has three levels, the top for the king to bathe in, the middle for his family and religious folk, and the bottom for the military and commoners. Because the current was so strong, I could only swim in the bottom level, and even that was tough... It was a great relief from the heat when I finally got in, though. The water was once thought to be holy because it came from Buddha's mountain and it runs all the way into the Siem Reap River and eventually the Tongle Sap Lake. Basically all the water in the region originates here, so every moat and stream in Siem Reap is holy. Cool, huh? Anyway, I clambered around on the mossy river rocks until it was time eat.

Lunch with my guide was interesting, especially to hear from the local as he felt about his country and its place in the world these days. I wish I could remember his name, but he spoke so fast that I never quite got past calling him sir. As a guide, he was certainly knowledgeable, but a bit hard to understand. I enjoyed hearing his stories and his silly jokes. I couldn't understand why he kept calling the drive to the mountain the "massage" road. Until we started up the steep, bumpy road... then I realized he was saying I'd be getting a free massage from the road. Not quite! He eventually explained how military rank equals a level of power here, but if you have enough money you can buy a higher rank, no problem. He also went into detail about the reasons why Thais and Khmer do not get along (from a Khmer perspective) and told me a personal border crossing story that was harrowing. Most people are rice farms, bur tourism and government work are also solid sources of income. All great facts that provided great knowledge for a day in the countryside.

The ride back was long, so I nodded off in the back seat on the way home. Before cleaning up completely for the jazz night at the hotel, I headed downtown to explore the night market, the bar street, and some local restaurants. I hadn't realized how completely my hotel was a little piece of heaven in a bustling tourist town. The bar street and night market reminded me of the night markets in Taipei, alive and bustling with different items to eat and places to grab a drink. I stopped for some quick food at the Red Piano (where Angie ate during filming!) and grabbed a snack for later at the Blue Pumpkin (love the ice cream). After a proper shower, I made my way over to the restaurant of the hotel for some fabulous live jazz and some mingling with local businesspeople, NGOs, teachers, and other hotel patrons. A great ambiance and some really interesting people. Every day gets better and better!

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 4)

Itinerary 

• sunrise at Angkor Wat 
• explore the complex
• breakfast at hotel 
• Phnom Thom complex 
• Bayon 
• Baphoun 
• Phimeanakas 
• Terrace of Elephants 
• lunch at local Khmer restaurant 
• Ta Prohm 

At 5:30am, I walked out of the hotel and looked up at the starry sky. Pitch black except for the bright specks of light that shone back at me and the huge moon above. Mr. Hak was waiting for me there with a nice cooler full of water for the day and fruit. Off we went to the park entrance, heading north to the edge of the huge moat, turning left around its edges as we joined the line of tuk-tuks headlights heading to the west entrance of the Angkor Wat complex. Mr. Hak had obviously done the sunrise thing before, because as I jumped out all bushy-tailed and eager, he handed me a flashlight, a bottle of water, and a cold towel. "I'll be over there whenever you're finished," he giggled as I headed to the causeway.

A muted sunrise, still beautiful

The walk across the land bridge was magical, as I looked up at the moon I realized how awesome this trip really is. Surrounded by a grand moat that wraps around the entire complex, Angkor Wat makes the Forbidden City look like peanuts. Armed with my flashlight, my camera, and accompanied by a thousand twinkling stars, I felt in my element... the start of a great day. The clouds soon rolled in and the sunrise was obscured (nothing like the professional photo shoots you see in magazines), but the moment was still amazing. The hordes were there with me at the northern reflecting pool, but among them I found an inner calm and enjoyed the morning reflection of the western profile of Angkor. Despite the people, it was still serene. I knew it would empty out after "sunrise" as people went back to their hotels for breakfast, so I stuck around to explore.

Inside the complex

I really felt like an ant crawling in a mansion. The temple is tiered, and as it has many walkways, you only realize its immensity after you cross each tiered level, the temple is higher and grander than you ever expected. I entered along with everyone from the west. According to Hindu/Buddhist religion, the west signifies death, which leads historians to believe that this temple was dedicated post-mortem to Jayavarman in order to honor his life. In any case, it's massive and impressive. As I exited the main hall to the north, I crawled up the steep steps of the library building and stopped in awe. The green grass in contrast to the misty mossy rock face of the walls simply caught my breath. 

Angkor Wat from the southern reflecting pool

I enjoyed the good part of the morning scampering across the complex and enjoying the sights. By the time 8:00am rolled around, I'd walked the entire thing and was hankering for some food. Unlike most hotels that offer a complimentary buffet breakfast, the chefs cook to order here at the Heritage. Meaning? I can get whatever I want. My omelet with red and green peppers and onion was scrumptious, as was my bacon and hash browns.

Thanks, Mr. Hak!

After the refuel, Mr. Hak took me back out to Angkor Thom, a giant walled city complex with absolutely so much to see. I got so giddy again at the sight of the south gate that Mr. Hak had to tell me to calm down and stop shaking the tuk-tuk. He offered to take my photograph at all the scenic spots (think he's done this before?) which was great as a solo traveler. After driving tourists around his whole life, it turns out he can take better photos than I can!

The Bayon is the first temple one comes to in the complex and it is a ruin with tons of hidden nooks. Also tons of tourists, so I tried to click my camera and admire as deftly as I could so I could move on to somewhere less crowded. On the top, steepest part of the Bayon, you can look down and see the sheer size of the temple below you. I was blown away at how every bit was covered with carvings and yet I was still allowed to crawl on every part. Even more than Bagan, Burma, I felt like Indiana Jones exploring some lost artifacts. 

Inside the Bayon

In my opinion, the Bapuon was the most impressive from afar, with its long walkway approach and the massive reflecting pools. From the inside, the carvings were less intricate and detailed, and the character of the temple was missing. Again, three massive tiers and a breathtaking view from the top as well. At this point in the late morning, my inner battery and my camera battery were strained, so I pushed ahead as the sun beat down.

The Bapuon from above

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas (which means celestial palace) reminded me of the Mayan pyramid temples and their place in Macchu Picchu. A dauntingly deep moat and steep steep steps kept me from climbing up, but I enjoyed the jungle shade surrounding it and the view as the sun shone down overhead. I continued to admire the day as I walked up the steps to the Elephant Terrace, imagining myself as King of the central square, minus all of the tour buses, of course. 

After stopping quickly at two smaller temples (Thommanon & Chau Say Tevoda), Mr. Hak brought me to a local place for lunch. Those two temples might have been my favorite of the day because of their intricate humility and the relative emptiness.

Chau Say Tevoda

Oh, and the Victory Gate, which Mr. Hak took me to on our way out of Angkor Thom, a massive eastern gate that I had the pleasure to enjoy all to myself. Lunch was tasty Khmer food (pronounced kh-may) with a handy helping of ginger and lemongrass. I bucked up for one more temple --> Ta Prohm: the large, famous ruin as featured in the Tomb Raider series. Well worth the trip to Cambodia alone. 

I took about two hours to explore this temple because unlike the others that were cleared of trees and vegetation, Ta Prohm still very much exists within the jungle's embrace. The roots of the large strangler fig trees entwine with the windows and walls of the temple. Tall columns lie on their sides after fighting long battles with the roots and the weather beating down on them, now covered with lush green moss. Parts of the temple are roped off, with restoration scaffolding and machinery strewn around. Elsewhere, guests are free to climb over stones, through ancient doorways still standing, and down tiny crumbled corridors. Despite many restoration projects, it still holds an undiscovered charm. 

Strangler fig tree at Ta Prohm

My walk back to the tuk-tuke came with rain, and by the time I arrived back at the hotel, I was exhausted completely. My nap was SOLID and totally restorative. The rain had finished by then, so I showered and dressed for dinner. This place is swanky, so I didn't feel out of place dressing up in heels. I did feel a little weird eating alone surrounded by couples, but I was able to write this post in peace and reflection. The meal was divine, with marinated Khmer beef rolls, served in a grilled pineapple, and melt-in-your-mouth succulent. The dessert was topped with Bailey's ice cream, so naturally, it was FABULOUS. A splendid first full day in Siem Reap. I love it already.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 3.5)

Siem Reap is amazing. And I know this from just a few hours of being here.

First of all, the reason I chose the hotel I did in Siem Reap was because of the airport-hotel transfer. 1964 Mercedes Benz, suckaaaaa! Of course the driver would think there would be two in my party ("Where is your husband, Mrs. Brosious?) so I had to drink both of the fresh, hand-squeezed, pineapple juice drinks he pulled out of the cooler.

Second, this hotel is nestled in a wooded paradise off the main drag, but still in the downtown area. The grounds themselves are a sight to see, with lush green foliage everywhere, intricate but classy woodwork, a real sense of serenity around.

And third, (this is the greatest of all), the lowest class room I booked was not available when I checked in. How is that great? Because I was upgraded to the PRIVATE MASTER VILLA!!! CAN YOU SAY LUCKY DUCK!?!

After crawling all of the compound to take pictures, arranging for my spa day on Saturday, and oogling my suite, I called the front desk for a tuk-tuk. Mr. Hak, my driver, offered to be my tuk-tuk guide for the whole trip. We set off for Phnom Bakheng for the first night's sunset.

Underwhelming for color, but impressive for scale. On the way, I saw Angkor Wat!! Sooooo many tourists were with me at Phnom Bakheng, all taking photos and chattering away in Chinese. Mostly Mainlanders, to be honest, but it was fine keeping to myself.

Note to self: wear long dresses or pants because some temples DO require more modesty. I wasn't allowed in with the shorts I was wearing, but thankfully I had a shawl I could use as a skirt. Great success!

So far, my seven hours in Siem Reap have been infinitely more relaxing and enjoyable than anything else I could have imagined. Like Myanmar, Siem Reap is to Bagan what Rangoon is to Phnom Penh. A respite from a hustle, bustle, developing city full of culture and noise. PP certainly has more "stuff" to offer, but I think that the political and economic offerings have enabled it to grow more than Rangoon. In some ways, I hope Myanmar stays undiscovered but still continues to develop. Highly unlikely, seeing the trend here with tourists enjoying Cambodia. In any case, this is a truly remarkable country.

The Joys of Driving in China

Recently, the weather has been perfect in Shenyang. You've read my post on the back-and-forth nature of the weather here, so it's been a pleasure to enjoy some fresh air, clear blue skies, and mild temperatures. The other night on my way home from work, I rolled down the window and said, "Goodness! It's a great night for a drive!" So I drove around the corner to a nearby park and parked the car next to the lake to enjoy some tunes. Why didn't I actually drive around town, enjoying the nice air? Well, because driving in China is anything but relaxing.

A group of us with the Panda on the way to Dandong

Earlier this summer, I got my Chinese driver's license and agreed to share a vehicle with a colleague at the Consulate. He purchased a hand-me-down vehicle from a former Consulate employee, a cute 5-speed mini car affectionately known as the Panda. Actually, it's a imitation of the Fiat Panda, made by Geely, a Chinese car manufacturer. But to be honest, it actually does look like a panda because it's white with black accents.

I truly enjoy driving, especially a manual transmission vehicle. This winter, I look forward to going back to the US to drive my pickup around the rolling hills of Bucks County. In the meantime, I'll roll my windows down as I drive down Nanjing Jie and imagine I'm driving along the Delaware River instead of across the Hunhe. In China, the thrill of driving is less relaxing, but certainly exciting in a different kind of way. Mainly because you never know what to expect.

To start, let's talk about driving etiquette on the roads. There is none. Since many Chinese drivers are only recently licensed, they've logged very few hours behind the wheel. There is no mandatory driver's education and no road test to be licensed. From what I've heard about the written test, the questions are also kinda bogus and unrelated to the real conditions of driving. Another point to keep in mind: in Chinese traffic law, it's the vehicle that impacts the other car that is at fault. So it makes (some) sense when Chinese drivers merge into traffic and they don't look behind them to yield to other drivers. No looking---at all. Even if they were hit, the accident wouldn't be their fault.

When I drive on the roads here, what keeps me sane is 1) knowing that I'm probably more experienced than the majority of drivers on the road and 2) imagining I'm playing a car driving video game. The video game isn't one of those that you race for the best time around a track; it's one of those that you have to swerve and manoeuvre around obstacles and pedestrians that come out of nowhere. Because people do just walk out into the street out of nowhere. The other day a woman walked into the street on a red light (at least she was in a crosswalk) on her cell phone and texting. Six! lanes of traffic stopped for her. Incredible.

At least downtown, the roads are easily navigable with street signs and traffic lights. Shenyang has seen a good deal of construction as of late due to the summer Olympic Games in Liaoning. But the city has done its part to pave and beautify the streets throughout town. The connections to the highways exiting the city are a different story. Our trip to Wazigou back in April was delayed by 2 hours trying to find an on-ramp to the highway that is listed on the maps as being open. Unfortunately for us, the highway wasn't open at all, and so it took a massive detour to get us out of the city. Fortunately for us, we were among the best of friends and it was a grand adventure. Once you make it to the highway (if you ever get there), the high-speed roads are fantastic. Well built and empty, there is relatively no traffic on the highways connecting the major cities. Chinese don't really use the highways as a mode of transportation between major cities because trains and planes are cheaper than owning a car. This might change in the future, but for now it's relatively relaxing to drive on the highways in China (that relative is to the frustration of driving in the city).

I write this entry as I start to plan a weekend journey via Panda to Changbaishan. With just about 6 hours of driving on roads that aren't yet on maps, I hope to have another entry that continues the theme. Wish me luck!