Hawaii - Oahu

PCS Transfer:
Shenyang -> Seoul -> Oahu -> Kauai -> Maui -> Phoenix -> Philadelphia

Departing Shenyang on such a high, I couldn't imagine anything better than the last 24 hours. But God has smiled down on me once again and proved that wrong. A trend that soon became the motto for my trip through Hawaii.

If you had twenty work days (or basically four weeks) of paid leave to do whatever you want with, what would you do? Armed with a set budget for flights and an open calendar, I thought pretty hard about that question when I was planning my PCS (permanent change of station) transfer. I cost constructed an itinerary that would have me stopping in Hawaii and Arizona for some adventures and sight-seeing.

Flying east from Shenyang, I figured I could stop in Oahu, Hawaii to visit my best friend and roommate from college, the Egyptian. A beautiful girl with an even more beautiful soul, she's been there for me through everything. After living together for four years, we have come to understand each other and balance out one another's quirks. Thankfully for me, she's currently stationed in Oahu with the Army as an ob/gyn doctor and was willing to have me come visit and stay with her. Super stoked, I made Hawaii my first destination.

I had never been to Hawaii before, so I really didn't know what to expect. In four days on Oahu, I saw the most breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, the most pristine white sand beaches, the lushest green mountain cliffs, and the clearest blue water I've ever seen in my life.
Aside from the beauty of Oahu, the atmosphere on this island has been my favorite. Known as "the gathering place," Oahu is home to Hawaii's capital Honolulu and the largest population out of the islands (although the big island of Hawaii is actually the largest in size). I visited downtown Honolulu, Waikiki, Hawaii Kai, and Kailua, on the windward coast where the Egyptian lives. Each with its own character, with Waikiki full of luxury shopping malls and fancy dining for the tourists, Hawaii Kai with its sprawling homes in the shadow of the Koko Head Crater, and Kailua, a hidden gem of a town with hands-down the best beach in all of Hawaii.

Knowing I had a limited amount of time on the island, I tried my best to pack as much as possible into my days. Here is my general itinerary and some photos to go along with it:
• Waikiki highrise sunset
• Kailua Beach sunrise and 7km run
• Breakfast at Cinnamon's
• Tailgating at Hawaii Stadium
• Dinner at Korean BBQ
• Boydo-In Japanese Temple
• Sand Island sunset
• Pali Lookout
• Mokapu'u Lighthouse hike
• Coffee Bean distributor
• Waikiki park and Honolulu sunset
• Pillboxes Trail hike
• Kailua Beach relaxing

Boydo-In Temple

Mokapu'u Lighthouse

Waikiki Beach

Pillboxes Hike panorama

Following all of this, I was able to steal the Egyptian away from work to go to Kauai and Maui for a bit of island hopping.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...

Cambodia: Beyond Siem Reap (Day 5)

Itinerary

• Banteay Srei
• Phnom Kulen
• Reclining Buddha
• One Thousand Lingas
• King's Waterfall
• Bar Street
• Blue Pumpkin
• Red Piano
• live jazz at hotel

Yesterday, I arranged a driver and a guide to take me to two of the more distant locations. I had seen photos of the waterfall and I knew it was one of the things I had to do: jump in. So we started off early; I hoped to beat the tourists to the temples.

Banteay Srei is the best example of intricate stonework and carvings. The artwork is also the best preserved in the country. Located about 30 minutes outside of Siem Reap, the temple is situated in the middle of nowhere. During the war, the complex was used a stronghold for the Vietnamese army. Today, with the skies holding back rain but the ground soaked with the previous days' deluge, the moat and the walkways were full of water, adding to the surrealness of my visit. Small in comparison to the Angkor temples, Banteay Srei is humble but absolutely magnificent. I couldn't get over the beautiful depth to the carvings and the infinite level of detail. Every nook was covered with something intricate. I'll let the pictures explain:

Super happy at the Reclining Buddha

After clicking away to my heart's content (as evidenced above), we loaded up for another 30 minute drive to Phnom Kulen National Park. The temple with the Reclining Buddha is still active, so when I visited it was busy with people paying their respects for the current holiday. Originally carved into the side of the mountain, the Buddha is now covered by an enclosure with a roof and stairs, and surrounded by small shrines for donations. The view from the balcony is impressive, of the valley below and the Kulen plateau. On our way down, we stopped at the river but due to the heavy rains, the One Thousand Lingas weren't visible. Onto the waterfall, which was very much visible.

The waterfall has three levels, the top for the king to bathe in, the middle for his family and religious folk, and the bottom for the military and commoners. Because the current was so strong, I could only swim in the bottom level, and even that was tough... It was a great relief from the heat when I finally got in, though. The water was once thought to be holy because it came from Buddha's mountain and it runs all the way into the Siem Reap River and eventually the Tongle Sap Lake. Basically all the water in the region originates here, so every moat and stream in Siem Reap is holy. Cool, huh? Anyway, I clambered around on the mossy river rocks until it was time eat.

Lunch with my guide was interesting, especially to hear from the local as he felt about his country and its place in the world these days. I wish I could remember his name, but he spoke so fast that I never quite got past calling him sir. As a guide, he was certainly knowledgeable, but a bit hard to understand. I enjoyed hearing his stories and his silly jokes. I couldn't understand why he kept calling the drive to the mountain the "massage" road. Until we started up the steep, bumpy road... then I realized he was saying I'd be getting a free massage from the road. Not quite! He eventually explained how military rank equals a level of power here, but if you have enough money you can buy a higher rank, no problem. He also went into detail about the reasons why Thais and Khmer do not get along (from a Khmer perspective) and told me a personal border crossing story that was harrowing. Most people are rice farms, bur tourism and government work are also solid sources of income. All great facts that provided great knowledge for a day in the countryside.

The ride back was long, so I nodded off in the back seat on the way home. Before cleaning up completely for the jazz night at the hotel, I headed downtown to explore the night market, the bar street, and some local restaurants. I hadn't realized how completely my hotel was a little piece of heaven in a bustling tourist town. The bar street and night market reminded me of the night markets in Taipei, alive and bustling with different items to eat and places to grab a drink. I stopped for some quick food at the Red Piano (where Angie ate during filming!) and grabbed a snack for later at the Blue Pumpkin (love the ice cream). After a proper shower, I made my way over to the restaurant of the hotel for some fabulous live jazz and some mingling with local businesspeople, NGOs, teachers, and other hotel patrons. A great ambiance and some really interesting people. Every day gets better and better!

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 4)

Itinerary 

• sunrise at Angkor Wat 
• explore the complex
• breakfast at hotel 
• Phnom Thom complex 
• Bayon 
• Baphoun 
• Phimeanakas 
• Terrace of Elephants 
• lunch at local Khmer restaurant 
• Ta Prohm 

At 5:30am, I walked out of the hotel and looked up at the starry sky. Pitch black except for the bright specks of light that shone back at me and the huge moon above. Mr. Hak was waiting for me there with a nice cooler full of water for the day and fruit. Off we went to the park entrance, heading north to the edge of the huge moat, turning left around its edges as we joined the line of tuk-tuks headlights heading to the west entrance of the Angkor Wat complex. Mr. Hak had obviously done the sunrise thing before, because as I jumped out all bushy-tailed and eager, he handed me a flashlight, a bottle of water, and a cold towel. "I'll be over there whenever you're finished," he giggled as I headed to the causeway.

A muted sunrise, still beautiful

The walk across the land bridge was magical, as I looked up at the moon I realized how awesome this trip really is. Surrounded by a grand moat that wraps around the entire complex, Angkor Wat makes the Forbidden City look like peanuts. Armed with my flashlight, my camera, and accompanied by a thousand twinkling stars, I felt in my element... the start of a great day. The clouds soon rolled in and the sunrise was obscured (nothing like the professional photo shoots you see in magazines), but the moment was still amazing. The hordes were there with me at the northern reflecting pool, but among them I found an inner calm and enjoyed the morning reflection of the western profile of Angkor. Despite the people, it was still serene. I knew it would empty out after "sunrise" as people went back to their hotels for breakfast, so I stuck around to explore.

Inside the complex

I really felt like an ant crawling in a mansion. The temple is tiered, and as it has many walkways, you only realize its immensity after you cross each tiered level, the temple is higher and grander than you ever expected. I entered along with everyone from the west. According to Hindu/Buddhist religion, the west signifies death, which leads historians to believe that this temple was dedicated post-mortem to Jayavarman in order to honor his life. In any case, it's massive and impressive. As I exited the main hall to the north, I crawled up the steep steps of the library building and stopped in awe. The green grass in contrast to the misty mossy rock face of the walls simply caught my breath. 

Angkor Wat from the southern reflecting pool

I enjoyed the good part of the morning scampering across the complex and enjoying the sights. By the time 8:00am rolled around, I'd walked the entire thing and was hankering for some food. Unlike most hotels that offer a complimentary buffet breakfast, the chefs cook to order here at the Heritage. Meaning? I can get whatever I want. My omelet with red and green peppers and onion was scrumptious, as was my bacon and hash browns.

Thanks, Mr. Hak!

After the refuel, Mr. Hak took me back out to Angkor Thom, a giant walled city complex with absolutely so much to see. I got so giddy again at the sight of the south gate that Mr. Hak had to tell me to calm down and stop shaking the tuk-tuk. He offered to take my photograph at all the scenic spots (think he's done this before?) which was great as a solo traveler. After driving tourists around his whole life, it turns out he can take better photos than I can!

The Bayon is the first temple one comes to in the complex and it is a ruin with tons of hidden nooks. Also tons of tourists, so I tried to click my camera and admire as deftly as I could so I could move on to somewhere less crowded. On the top, steepest part of the Bayon, you can look down and see the sheer size of the temple below you. I was blown away at how every bit was covered with carvings and yet I was still allowed to crawl on every part. Even more than Bagan, Burma, I felt like Indiana Jones exploring some lost artifacts. 

Inside the Bayon

In my opinion, the Bapuon was the most impressive from afar, with its long walkway approach and the massive reflecting pools. From the inside, the carvings were less intricate and detailed, and the character of the temple was missing. Again, three massive tiers and a breathtaking view from the top as well. At this point in the late morning, my inner battery and my camera battery were strained, so I pushed ahead as the sun beat down.

The Bapuon from above

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas (which means celestial palace) reminded me of the Mayan pyramid temples and their place in Macchu Picchu. A dauntingly deep moat and steep steep steps kept me from climbing up, but I enjoyed the jungle shade surrounding it and the view as the sun shone down overhead. I continued to admire the day as I walked up the steps to the Elephant Terrace, imagining myself as King of the central square, minus all of the tour buses, of course. 

After stopping quickly at two smaller temples (Thommanon & Chau Say Tevoda), Mr. Hak brought me to a local place for lunch. Those two temples might have been my favorite of the day because of their intricate humility and the relative emptiness.

Chau Say Tevoda

Oh, and the Victory Gate, which Mr. Hak took me to on our way out of Angkor Thom, a massive eastern gate that I had the pleasure to enjoy all to myself. Lunch was tasty Khmer food (pronounced kh-may) with a handy helping of ginger and lemongrass. I bucked up for one more temple --> Ta Prohm: the large, famous ruin as featured in the Tomb Raider series. Well worth the trip to Cambodia alone. 

I took about two hours to explore this temple because unlike the others that were cleared of trees and vegetation, Ta Prohm still very much exists within the jungle's embrace. The roots of the large strangler fig trees entwine with the windows and walls of the temple. Tall columns lie on their sides after fighting long battles with the roots and the weather beating down on them, now covered with lush green moss. Parts of the temple are roped off, with restoration scaffolding and machinery strewn around. Elsewhere, guests are free to climb over stones, through ancient doorways still standing, and down tiny crumbled corridors. Despite many restoration projects, it still holds an undiscovered charm. 

Strangler fig tree at Ta Prohm

My walk back to the tuk-tuke came with rain, and by the time I arrived back at the hotel, I was exhausted completely. My nap was SOLID and totally restorative. The rain had finished by then, so I showered and dressed for dinner. This place is swanky, so I didn't feel out of place dressing up in heels. I did feel a little weird eating alone surrounded by couples, but I was able to write this post in peace and reflection. The meal was divine, with marinated Khmer beef rolls, served in a grilled pineapple, and melt-in-your-mouth succulent. The dessert was topped with Bailey's ice cream, so naturally, it was FABULOUS. A splendid first full day in Siem Reap. I love it already.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 3)

Itinerary

• Crêpe Mania - OPEN!
• Russian Market
• Wat Phnom
• Brown's Coffee Riverside
• Airport transfer to Siem Reap

Sleeping in was a great idea. The morning view from my canopy bed was stunning, with blue skies and temples. ::awe:: So beautiful and serene.

They don't call it the Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel for no reason

I retried going to Crêpe Mania and it was definitely worth going back. The owner said that they were doing a photo shoot the day before for a new menu, so I was glad to have the chance. First, great music soundtrack. I had to keep pulling out my phone to Shazam songs I liked but hadn't heard before. Yay for new mellow music!

My delicious breakfast

Second, what IS it with Phnom Penh and all the good food?? So tasty I couldn't get enough. I had the Madame, like a croque-monsieur plus an egg, wrapped in a tasty whole wheat crêpe. I'd totally come back here a dozen times to try all the types of sweet and salty/savory flavors they offer. A great place to read the newspaper too... PS I need to find another word other than "great" because I obviously use it too much here in Cambodia.

The Russian Market: just another Asian market. BUT, more "real" than the Central Market that is geared to tourists. Locals were shopping here, getting their hair done, buying groceries, and bartering for home goods. There were some incredible colorful photo opportunities in the fabric section and I
bought some souvenirs for the family. I still can't get over the fabrics and silks. Absolutely stunning and in every color imaginable. I bought one today and three yesterday. I know I won't be able to choose which to give away as gifts.

At Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom was a small and slightly run down temple, but perhaps that's because it's still used quite a bit. I enjoyed looking at the bronzes and it was certainly a taste of things to come in Siem Reap. Located on the phnom/hill that the city was named for, this wat/temple is situated at a roundabout, one side of which faces the U.S. Embassy. A newish complex that seems massive compared to the Consulate in Shenyang. Perhaps a future tour in Cambodia? I think yes...

I had a quick lunch at Brown's Riverside location with a local woman I met at the Central Market and her two adorable children. Interesting conversation as well. Her advice? Although unsolicited: life is better with children and without men, since blood will always be thicker than love. Woof! I didn't ask too many questions but I can bet there are some stories behind that!

More iced drinks!

After a hot and dusty tuk-tuk ride to the airport, plus a quick 45-minute plane ride, I landed in paradise. COMPLETELY. I could go on and on about Siem Reap... for another post.

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 2)

Itinerary

• Will's Cafe
• National Museum of Cambodia
• Friends Cafe - Closed
• Crêpe Mania - Closed
• Brown's Coffee and Bakery (cafe food)
• Royal Palace
• Hotel
• Deco (Modern American food)

A much tougher run today, not as refreshing as yesterday. But what can you do? I can't control everything. 

Dragon outside the National Museum

After yesterday's intense itinerary, today's was more in the historic realm. My first stop after a fab brunch was the National Museum, which is literally a few blocks from my hotel. I really wish I could have taken photos inside because the artifacts were so impressive. I snuck a few with my iPhone (shh! don't tell!) but there was even beauty in the building itself, so I did admire the architecture and its lush courtyard. Hot as balls with no air conditioning, though with frequent shaded bench breaks and meditation moments outside, I survived. Inside, a room with hundreds of different Buddha statues was the most impressive, all in different sizes and variations of poses. Statues and carvings throughout were staggeringly impressive, yet the museum itself is humble and uncommanding.

I tried a few places nearby for lunch but because of the upcoming holiday, some places were closed. Ended up at a coffee joint suggested to me for a delicious local drink: iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. It threw me into such a state of relaxation that I ended up just chilling there to eat a light lunch. My waitress was so floored to hear that I was American but I chose to visit her country from China. She asked how I had heard about Brown's and was giddy to learn that a foreigner had recommended it to me. The simple things in life. The chicken pesto sandwich was delish (seriously, like so close to Cosi's the memories came rushing back) and it filled me up just enough to get me through the next leg of the day. Brown's is a great place to whittle away the two hours I had until the palace opened after lunch. Oh, and everywhere here has free wifi! Just ask for the password.

Intricate roof of the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace itself is a massive white building with tiered roofs and intricate tilework, but the grounds are even more impressive and large. Unfortunately, as I was buying tickets, I heard the ever-familiar drone of Mandarin Chinese. When I realized I would be sharing the space with a whole bunch of Mainlanders, I sighed. But to be honest, the place was big enough that I could avoid them easily. Gilded buildings all over with many awnings, a couple hundred carvings, and sculptures dotting the gardens. Everywhere one looked, another beautiful building to explore. There were even monkeys around, chirping at tourists who brought snacks like bananas or oranges. Quite the photo op!

Nomnomnom

I tired quickly with the grating company of the Zhongguoren and the heat of the afternoon sun. By 3, I was puckered out and in need of some water. Although my hotel was still only 100m from the palace entrance, it felt like a marathon to walk there in the sweltering temperatures. I collapsed on the bed once I arrived, but before I fell asleep, I donned my bathing suit and made my way up to the rooftop pool deck. There, I quick dove in for a swim and promptly passed out on the lounge chair. Almost two hours later, my body somewhat rested, I made my way back to the room to prep for dinner.

Waiting for Gatsby

The Advisor (a weekly local magazine) had rave reviews of a fairly new-ish restaurant called Deco. Small, precise menu but lauded for the fabulous drinks. No convincing necessary here! I made a reservation (for 1, so sad!) and hopped in a tuk-tuk over to the southern part of town. Totally worth the hype for the cocktails and the food was tasty too. I asked for more flatbread to mop up the delicious yogurt spinach lentil dish I started with, but I would have used my fingers it was that good. After two well-crafted drinks made with a hefty amount of gin, I would probably have enjoyed anything though. The music was great and the ambiance was totally Great Gatsby-esque. I had no problem heading to bed early with the hope of sleeping in a bit for my final day in Phnom Penh. 

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 1)

Itinerary

• Choeung Ek Killing Fields
• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
• Magnolia Restaurant (Khmer-Vietnamese food)
• Phsar Thmei - Central Market
• Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel
• Taqueria Corona (Mexican food)
• Riverside walk
• Blue Pumpkin (ice cream & bakery)
• Foreign Correspondents' Club

I woke up to the beautiful sound of birds. You don't hear chirping birds (or any wildlife, for that matter) in China. How refreshing. 

My morning run took me by the Royal Palace, where locals exercised outside the main gate or fed the morning pigeons. Typical Asian elements were there, like choreographed dancing to canned music, fresh fruit stands, people on their motorbikes heading to work. The route went around Koh Pich Island, a desolate Atlantic City-esque place that aims to be a center of luxury but in the daytime is a little sad. Across the Mekong River, you can see high rises that remind me of China's landscape. Perhaps they're built by Chinese real estate tycoons? Nevertheless, it was still nice to get out and stretch my legs after the flight.

Aside from the glorious temples of Cambodia located in Siem Reap, Cambodia has a dark history and is known for the Khmer Rouge regime and Pol Pot. In my opinion, a trip to Cambodia and Phnom Penh wouldn't be complete without a trip to the genocidal killing fields, at least to acknowledge this country's more recent grim history and pay respect to those that lost their lives. So the Choeung Ek Killing Fields site was my first stop of the day, located about 45 minutes via tuk-tuk outside of the city. 

Remembrance Bracelets at the Killing Fields

No two genocides are the "same" but the feeling I had at the Killing Fields is the same I had when I visited the Dachau Concentration Camp. When given a belief to hide behind, people are capable of inhuman things. The difference for Cambodia is that, to my knowledge, it's one of the few genocides where the regime attacked its own people. In any case, the site is well preserved, and the $2 audio
guide was very well made, I totally recommend it. Full of history and insight, the guide provided a narrative to the sights. Listening to a still-alive survivor of the 1978 events while standing beside a mass grave once filled with over 450 innocent bodies is very moving. This atrocity happened only 30 years ago, give or take, so the history for some is very much alive today. I am glad I had the opportunity to learn more about it from a first-hand perspective.

The Tuol Sleng facility is where the victims of the killing fields were first sent after they were arrested, to be tortured, interrogated, and held captive until they were transferred. An old school converted into the Security Prison 21 (S-21), Tuol Sleng's halls and cells are now bare except for barbed wire and metal beds with shackles. When Pol Pot's regime was finally overthrown, the resistance entered Tuol Sleng and freed the seven survivors, while photo-documenting those still chained to the beds who were not as fortunate. Large prints of these victims hang on the walls in the cells, left as they were in 1979. Haunting.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

::sigh:: After such a serious morning, I tried to lighten my afternoon at a local Khmer food restaurant for some authentic dishes (and delicious coffee), and then headed over to the art deco Central Market for some retail therapy. Like typical Asian markets, the wares were cheap and bargainable, and very varied (shoes, belts, bags, clothes, cosmetics, watches, jewelry, glasses, gifts, and oh yes, raw meat, live fish and flowers). I bought some scarves, postcards, and a pair of sandals. Heading back to the hotel after a long day, I thought about how much this country has rebounded after such a momentous past. 

I had dinner with A and his wife who both work here after a number of years serving in China. The Mexican restaurant we met at had some seriously delicious food and the conversations was great. Sharing China memories and comparisons to Cambodia made it easier for me to admire this country for its accomplishments and its charm. They gave me some insider recommendations for Phnom Penh and my onward trip to Siem Reap, and it was exciting to hear about their new lives settling in. It was a true pleasure to see them again in a new setting. Although I didn't really want to say goodbye, we parted ways after a tasty meal and will certainly stay in touch in the future given this small world. 

The evening ended up with a riverside walk along the Mekong, some delicious ice cream and petit madelines, and few local beers with some other expats at the FCC. Day 1, although heart-wrenching and slightly depressing, showed me just how beautiful, diverse, and impressive Cambodia truly is.

The view from the FCC

Why Rome?

Please forgive my excitement, but maybe I'm looking forward with great anticipation to the chance to run along River Tiber and see some of this for myself:

http://whyrome.blogspot.com/2013/09/biking-down-by-river-in-rome.html

Ahh!! :)

Wordless Wednesday (Burma)

Photography through Carolyn's Lens

When I joined the Foreign Service, the only camera I owned was my iPhone, which is actually quite decent for capturing spur of the moment shots. However, when I traveled to cool new places like the Great Wall, Taipei, Burma, and New Zealand, an iPhone was not going to cut it. Earlier this year I bought my first "real" camera: a Canon EOS Rebel T3i. I had played around with a friend's T2i and really enjoyed the feel and ease. Most of my photographs from Taipei are from the T2i. I had also played around with my colleague's Nikon D90 a bit too. All of my Burma photographs (Yangon / Bagan) are from the D90. In my opinion, I found the Canon easier to adjust the settings and take stunning photographs that were effortless on my part.

Disclaimer: I am not a camera guru. I have never taken photography courses. I like to read the Instruction Manuals (yes, I am a nerd), and this is a great place to start for people who have never taken photographs with a DSLR camera that has manual settings. The Internet is also a helpful resource for anyone who is willing to read and watch other peoples' advice. That's basically what you're doing right now, ya know?

I encourage you to click on the photos for a larger view so you can see what I'm describing.

• Exposure: Think of exposure as the overall combination of three settings. To help myself remember what each one does, I liken the settings to the functions of my eye:
• Aperture - pupil & lens, shrinking and dilating to focus the light
• Shutter speed - lid, blinking slow or fast to take in more/less information
• ISO - retina, light-sensing film to take in more/less light
• Aperture: You're on the couch reading a book and suddenly someone comes in the door. As you look up, it takes a second for your eyes to adjust to the new distance. Just like in your eye, setting the aperture allows your camera lens to focus the light. It is measured in f-stop increments. An open aperture is a low number (f/2.8) that would blur the immediate foreground and background, setting the focus on the mid-ground, which is good for portraits. A small aperture is a high number (f/20) that would keep everything sharp from the foreground, mid-ground, and distance background, which can be good for landscapes. 

f/5 - blurred foreground and background with a sharp mid-ground 

f/18 - sharp at all points, even the mountains in the distance

• Shutter speed: Let's say if you're in a park, and you have your eyes shut and open them fast, take in info, and then shut them, you get a pretty good idea of what's going on. You might remember someone mid-stance, a ball in mid-air, a bird flying by. That would be a high shutter speed, maybe 1/1000 of a second. In that picture, you would have frozen the action. If you open your eyes, and maybe even turn your head, you get more information and see the movement. That would be a slow shutter speed, maybe 1 whole second, 1/6 of a second. In that picture, you see water moving, and blurred images of people walking by.

1/1000 of a second - caught the wave, and all the spray 

1/3 of a second - blurred to show movement

• ISO: You're walking in from a brightly-light parking lot and you notice right away how dark it is inside the restaurant where you're meeting someone for a romantic dinner. Just as your pupil adjusted earlier to the light to focus it, your retina will also sense you're in a dark room and take in more light so you can see your meal. When your environment is bright, you want a low ISO number, around 200 or 400, to avoid overexposure. When the environment is dark, you should allow for more light sensitivity, about 1600 or higher, to capture as much information as possible. Unfortunately, when it's too dark and a 3200 ISO cannot capture anything, your image will be grainy and blah.

ISO 100 - A lot of natural light from the window at the back

ISO 3200 - This was taken in pitch black darkness without a tripod with a 6 second shutter speed. The slow shutter speed plus no tripod makes it super blurry. I shot this in RAW format to get the highest amount of information so I could take it into Photoshop and potentially edit it. This is the un-edited version. PS: this is the Milky Way :)

• To help you keep track of all of this, most DSLRs have a general exposure meter that runs from -3 -- 0 -- +3, with 0 being the optimal exposure, -3 being underexposed, and +3 being overexposed. All of this is personal preference, so you can be perfectly happy with an overexposed photo if that's what you're going for. 
• Lens & focal length: Your first setting here is your distance to the subject, which is changed by... well, YOU! To help you get virtually closer, you can use a zoom lens to change the focal length. My DSLR kit came with a moderate lens that ranges from 18-55mm with a max aperture f/3.5-5.6. I use this for most of my shots. I also got a telephoto zoom lens that ranges from 55-250mm with a max aperture f/4-5.6. This is good for super zooms and still captures fine detail. Canon does a great job at explaining what the different lenses do on their website: http://www.canonlenses.ca/ Just drag and drop the different lenses into the compare feature and you can see the difference. Lots of fun.

18mm - Taken with a 18-55mm lens, at the lowest zoom
ISO 400, 18mm, f/14, 1/500

55mm - Taken with a 55-250mm lens, at the lowest zoom
ISO 400, 55mm, f/11, 1/800 

109mm - Taken with a 55-250mm lens at mid-zoom
ISO 400, 109mm, f/11, 1/800

• Focus: With cameras these days, auto focus is awesome. For the most part, I let the camera do the work once I've found what to focus on. On my Canon, if you press the shutter button down half-way, the camera will select the focus based on how I've composed the shot. If I want the picture to focus on another object in the frame, I move the camera so the object is in the center, push the button down half-way to focus, and then reframe the shot by moving the object to where I want it to be. For example, in the shot on the left below, the camera had originally auto-focused on the mountains and I didn't know until I took the shot that the foreground would be so dark. In the second shot on the right, I had refocused on one of the cows in the foreground and then moved the camera so they were in the right side of the picture. You can see that both are pretty shots, but for different reasons. 

Original focus: the mountains in the distance.
The camera realized that it needed to shadow the foreground to capture the light and detail from the background.
ISO 100, 65mm, f/10, 1/320

Refocused: the hill and cows in the foreground.
I lost detail in the mountains by focusing on the cows, but the camera is able to make both visible.
ISO 100, 65mm, f/7.1, 1/160

This is certainly not an exclusive tutorial for photography, by any means at all. But for those of you who have asked me about my camera and my photos, here's an insight in how to get started taking the same kind of pictures! I have found the best way to get good shots is to take a lot of them, and then be very critical of yourself... keep changing settings and perspective until you get the shot you want. Branch out of Auto mode and dive into Manual, or Av (aperture-priority) or Tv (shutter-priority) to have some assistance in choosing the right settings. Read your manual and learn the camera menus so you get faster at changing settings on the fly. Bring your camera with you when you go, because you'll never get "that shot" if you don't have your camera. Charge your batteries and bring an extra memory card, because you never want to have to delete a photo you haven't seen on the computer screen. And take some time to compose the shot!

Happy snapping!