Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 6)

Itinerary

• Pool lounging at hotel
• Preah Khan
• Kraol Ko
• Neak Poan
• Ta Som
• East Mebon
• Pre Rup
• Sras Srang
• Banteay Kdei

Today was absolutely, blissfully amazing. I have never been more drenched in my life, yet despite the torrential downpours, I had the best adventure of my life. Every turn made me take my breath, and each staircase offered a rewarding view. 

Looking up in Preah Khan

The morning started out slow, with a late start and a long breakfast. I lounged a bit by the pool, but the rain soon came in the late morning. I used the opportunity to eat a quick lunch and then head out to some of the less visited temples as everyone was heading back for lunch. Best. Decision. Ever. When I arrived at Preah Khan (my favorite temple experience ever), the skies cleared to an amazing blue with big puffy clouds. Incredibly no tourists, either! In a state of awe, I walked throughout this large city complex by myself. As I got into the central temple, the rain started up again but I was so ecstatic that I couldn't be bothered with a little rain. I was completely content climbing over the rocks with my poncho and my camera, exploring every nook as the rain dripped down on me.

In the same vein as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan had been left to nature, but survived the jungle more intact than its more popular friend. The strangler figs were everywhere, with almost every wall covered with some root or vine. I spent a good two hours (at least!) at Preah Khan, and met the tuk-tuk at the opposite end of the temple city, with a fabulous view of the lake. I passed a group of Germans entering on that side and, seeing the crazy look on my face, they asked if I liked the temple. "Magical," I replied. It really was incredible. 

Preah Khan

My attempt to see Neak Poan was foiled, by weather and Chinese tourists. At this point, the rain was so

Rain on the walkway to Neak Poan

incredibly strong, that I could barely see more than 10 feet in front of me. To add to the difficulty, the walk to Neak Poan temple is through a huge baray (lake), built on a wooden walkway rising out of the water. Given the last few days of rain, the walkway was almost submerged, with the waters' edge coming up over the edges of the wooden boards. Yet, determined to see the perfectly symmetrical square temple, I surged on. But seriously, once I got to the edge of the walkway, at the gate to see the temple, the rain was scarily heavy and the Chinese tourists were crowding the walkway to get their photos with the not-visible temple in the background. Frustrated, I turned back, with only one picture to capture the moment. 

Dancing asparas

Banteay Kdei is described as a smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, with the city-complex/university layout. As expected, I loved it. This style of temple is my favorite, with an ambling path through immense stone structures, shaded by huge trees. The most notable part of Banteay Kdei is the Hall of Dancers, a massive hall with about 40-some columns each covered with engravings of dancing asparas, or nymph. In Khmer tradition, the aspara dance is famous, with ballet-like moves, intricate hand motions and gorgeous gold costumes. I had the chance to see some of the dance moves while I was at the Angkor Thom temples, so seeing the original inspiration carved into these rocks solidified the culture for me. I loved every one of them.  

Dodging back and forth between temples and the tuk-tuk, I clambered over a handful of temples, each one slightly different, with interesting details distinguishing them from one another. East Mebon was guarded by four majestic elephants on each corner, the most preserved feature of the temple. Originally surrounded by water, this temple is distinct in its red stone, compared to the grey stone of the later temples. 

Pre Rup is vertically impressive, with almost ten tiers and three huge spires. The carvings on the false doors at the top spire captured my attention for a long time as I waited out a torrent of rain. I didn't mind camping out in the doorway of the temple, looking out on the landscape around me. I heard the slow lull of a cow, with his bell tinkling as he walked through the fields munching on grass. Local children scampered around in a field next to the temple, not frightened of the rain but enjoying the opportunity to jump in the stream alongside the road. Rice fields surrounded the complex, with farms dotted throughout. The picture was serene, so I enjoyed the moment for a while before heading back to the hotel.

The storm rumbles in...

Cambodia: Beyond Siem Reap (Day 5)

Itinerary

• Banteay Srei
• Phnom Kulen
• Reclining Buddha
• One Thousand Lingas
• King's Waterfall
• Bar Street
• Blue Pumpkin
• Red Piano
• live jazz at hotel

Yesterday, I arranged a driver and a guide to take me to two of the more distant locations. I had seen photos of the waterfall and I knew it was one of the things I had to do: jump in. So we started off early; I hoped to beat the tourists to the temples.

Banteay Srei is the best example of intricate stonework and carvings. The artwork is also the best preserved in the country. Located about 30 minutes outside of Siem Reap, the temple is situated in the middle of nowhere. During the war, the complex was used a stronghold for the Vietnamese army. Today, with the skies holding back rain but the ground soaked with the previous days' deluge, the moat and the walkways were full of water, adding to the surrealness of my visit. Small in comparison to the Angkor temples, Banteay Srei is humble but absolutely magnificent. I couldn't get over the beautiful depth to the carvings and the infinite level of detail. Every nook was covered with something intricate. I'll let the pictures explain:

Super happy at the Reclining Buddha

After clicking away to my heart's content (as evidenced above), we loaded up for another 30 minute drive to Phnom Kulen National Park. The temple with the Reclining Buddha is still active, so when I visited it was busy with people paying their respects for the current holiday. Originally carved into the side of the mountain, the Buddha is now covered by an enclosure with a roof and stairs, and surrounded by small shrines for donations. The view from the balcony is impressive, of the valley below and the Kulen plateau. On our way down, we stopped at the river but due to the heavy rains, the One Thousand Lingas weren't visible. Onto the waterfall, which was very much visible.

The waterfall has three levels, the top for the king to bathe in, the middle for his family and religious folk, and the bottom for the military and commoners. Because the current was so strong, I could only swim in the bottom level, and even that was tough... It was a great relief from the heat when I finally got in, though. The water was once thought to be holy because it came from Buddha's mountain and it runs all the way into the Siem Reap River and eventually the Tongle Sap Lake. Basically all the water in the region originates here, so every moat and stream in Siem Reap is holy. Cool, huh? Anyway, I clambered around on the mossy river rocks until it was time eat.

Lunch with my guide was interesting, especially to hear from the local as he felt about his country and its place in the world these days. I wish I could remember his name, but he spoke so fast that I never quite got past calling him sir. As a guide, he was certainly knowledgeable, but a bit hard to understand. I enjoyed hearing his stories and his silly jokes. I couldn't understand why he kept calling the drive to the mountain the "massage" road. Until we started up the steep, bumpy road... then I realized he was saying I'd be getting a free massage from the road. Not quite! He eventually explained how military rank equals a level of power here, but if you have enough money you can buy a higher rank, no problem. He also went into detail about the reasons why Thais and Khmer do not get along (from a Khmer perspective) and told me a personal border crossing story that was harrowing. Most people are rice farms, bur tourism and government work are also solid sources of income. All great facts that provided great knowledge for a day in the countryside.

The ride back was long, so I nodded off in the back seat on the way home. Before cleaning up completely for the jazz night at the hotel, I headed downtown to explore the night market, the bar street, and some local restaurants. I hadn't realized how completely my hotel was a little piece of heaven in a bustling tourist town. The bar street and night market reminded me of the night markets in Taipei, alive and bustling with different items to eat and places to grab a drink. I stopped for some quick food at the Red Piano (where Angie ate during filming!) and grabbed a snack for later at the Blue Pumpkin (love the ice cream). After a proper shower, I made my way over to the restaurant of the hotel for some fabulous live jazz and some mingling with local businesspeople, NGOs, teachers, and other hotel patrons. A great ambiance and some really interesting people. Every day gets better and better!

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 4)

Itinerary 

• sunrise at Angkor Wat 
• explore the complex
• breakfast at hotel 
• Phnom Thom complex 
• Bayon 
• Baphoun 
• Phimeanakas 
• Terrace of Elephants 
• lunch at local Khmer restaurant 
• Ta Prohm 

At 5:30am, I walked out of the hotel and looked up at the starry sky. Pitch black except for the bright specks of light that shone back at me and the huge moon above. Mr. Hak was waiting for me there with a nice cooler full of water for the day and fruit. Off we went to the park entrance, heading north to the edge of the huge moat, turning left around its edges as we joined the line of tuk-tuks headlights heading to the west entrance of the Angkor Wat complex. Mr. Hak had obviously done the sunrise thing before, because as I jumped out all bushy-tailed and eager, he handed me a flashlight, a bottle of water, and a cold towel. "I'll be over there whenever you're finished," he giggled as I headed to the causeway.

A muted sunrise, still beautiful

The walk across the land bridge was magical, as I looked up at the moon I realized how awesome this trip really is. Surrounded by a grand moat that wraps around the entire complex, Angkor Wat makes the Forbidden City look like peanuts. Armed with my flashlight, my camera, and accompanied by a thousand twinkling stars, I felt in my element... the start of a great day. The clouds soon rolled in and the sunrise was obscured (nothing like the professional photo shoots you see in magazines), but the moment was still amazing. The hordes were there with me at the northern reflecting pool, but among them I found an inner calm and enjoyed the morning reflection of the western profile of Angkor. Despite the people, it was still serene. I knew it would empty out after "sunrise" as people went back to their hotels for breakfast, so I stuck around to explore.

Inside the complex

I really felt like an ant crawling in a mansion. The temple is tiered, and as it has many walkways, you only realize its immensity after you cross each tiered level, the temple is higher and grander than you ever expected. I entered along with everyone from the west. According to Hindu/Buddhist religion, the west signifies death, which leads historians to believe that this temple was dedicated post-mortem to Jayavarman in order to honor his life. In any case, it's massive and impressive. As I exited the main hall to the north, I crawled up the steep steps of the library building and stopped in awe. The green grass in contrast to the misty mossy rock face of the walls simply caught my breath. 

Angkor Wat from the southern reflecting pool

I enjoyed the good part of the morning scampering across the complex and enjoying the sights. By the time 8:00am rolled around, I'd walked the entire thing and was hankering for some food. Unlike most hotels that offer a complimentary buffet breakfast, the chefs cook to order here at the Heritage. Meaning? I can get whatever I want. My omelet with red and green peppers and onion was scrumptious, as was my bacon and hash browns.

Thanks, Mr. Hak!

After the refuel, Mr. Hak took me back out to Angkor Thom, a giant walled city complex with absolutely so much to see. I got so giddy again at the sight of the south gate that Mr. Hak had to tell me to calm down and stop shaking the tuk-tuk. He offered to take my photograph at all the scenic spots (think he's done this before?) which was great as a solo traveler. After driving tourists around his whole life, it turns out he can take better photos than I can!

The Bayon is the first temple one comes to in the complex and it is a ruin with tons of hidden nooks. Also tons of tourists, so I tried to click my camera and admire as deftly as I could so I could move on to somewhere less crowded. On the top, steepest part of the Bayon, you can look down and see the sheer size of the temple below you. I was blown away at how every bit was covered with carvings and yet I was still allowed to crawl on every part. Even more than Bagan, Burma, I felt like Indiana Jones exploring some lost artifacts. 

Inside the Bayon

In my opinion, the Bapuon was the most impressive from afar, with its long walkway approach and the massive reflecting pools. From the inside, the carvings were less intricate and detailed, and the character of the temple was missing. Again, three massive tiers and a breathtaking view from the top as well. At this point in the late morning, my inner battery and my camera battery were strained, so I pushed ahead as the sun beat down.

The Bapuon from above

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas (which means celestial palace) reminded me of the Mayan pyramid temples and their place in Macchu Picchu. A dauntingly deep moat and steep steep steps kept me from climbing up, but I enjoyed the jungle shade surrounding it and the view as the sun shone down overhead. I continued to admire the day as I walked up the steps to the Elephant Terrace, imagining myself as King of the central square, minus all of the tour buses, of course. 

After stopping quickly at two smaller temples (Thommanon & Chau Say Tevoda), Mr. Hak brought me to a local place for lunch. Those two temples might have been my favorite of the day because of their intricate humility and the relative emptiness.

Chau Say Tevoda

Oh, and the Victory Gate, which Mr. Hak took me to on our way out of Angkor Thom, a massive eastern gate that I had the pleasure to enjoy all to myself. Lunch was tasty Khmer food (pronounced kh-may) with a handy helping of ginger and lemongrass. I bucked up for one more temple --> Ta Prohm: the large, famous ruin as featured in the Tomb Raider series. Well worth the trip to Cambodia alone. 

I took about two hours to explore this temple because unlike the others that were cleared of trees and vegetation, Ta Prohm still very much exists within the jungle's embrace. The roots of the large strangler fig trees entwine with the windows and walls of the temple. Tall columns lie on their sides after fighting long battles with the roots and the weather beating down on them, now covered with lush green moss. Parts of the temple are roped off, with restoration scaffolding and machinery strewn around. Elsewhere, guests are free to climb over stones, through ancient doorways still standing, and down tiny crumbled corridors. Despite many restoration projects, it still holds an undiscovered charm. 

Strangler fig tree at Ta Prohm

My walk back to the tuk-tuke came with rain, and by the time I arrived back at the hotel, I was exhausted completely. My nap was SOLID and totally restorative. The rain had finished by then, so I showered and dressed for dinner. This place is swanky, so I didn't feel out of place dressing up in heels. I did feel a little weird eating alone surrounded by couples, but I was able to write this post in peace and reflection. The meal was divine, with marinated Khmer beef rolls, served in a grilled pineapple, and melt-in-your-mouth succulent. The dessert was topped with Bailey's ice cream, so naturally, it was FABULOUS. A splendid first full day in Siem Reap. I love it already.

Cambodia: Siem Reap (Day 3.5)

Siem Reap is amazing. And I know this from just a few hours of being here.

First of all, the reason I chose the hotel I did in Siem Reap was because of the airport-hotel transfer. 1964 Mercedes Benz, suckaaaaa! Of course the driver would think there would be two in my party ("Where is your husband, Mrs. Brosious?) so I had to drink both of the fresh, hand-squeezed, pineapple juice drinks he pulled out of the cooler.

Second, this hotel is nestled in a wooded paradise off the main drag, but still in the downtown area. The grounds themselves are a sight to see, with lush green foliage everywhere, intricate but classy woodwork, a real sense of serenity around.

And third, (this is the greatest of all), the lowest class room I booked was not available when I checked in. How is that great? Because I was upgraded to the PRIVATE MASTER VILLA!!! CAN YOU SAY LUCKY DUCK!?!

After crawling all of the compound to take pictures, arranging for my spa day on Saturday, and oogling my suite, I called the front desk for a tuk-tuk. Mr. Hak, my driver, offered to be my tuk-tuk guide for the whole trip. We set off for Phnom Bakheng for the first night's sunset.

Underwhelming for color, but impressive for scale. On the way, I saw Angkor Wat!! Sooooo many tourists were with me at Phnom Bakheng, all taking photos and chattering away in Chinese. Mostly Mainlanders, to be honest, but it was fine keeping to myself.

Note to self: wear long dresses or pants because some temples DO require more modesty. I wasn't allowed in with the shorts I was wearing, but thankfully I had a shawl I could use as a skirt. Great success!

So far, my seven hours in Siem Reap have been infinitely more relaxing and enjoyable than anything else I could have imagined. Like Myanmar, Siem Reap is to Bagan what Rangoon is to Phnom Penh. A respite from a hustle, bustle, developing city full of culture and noise. PP certainly has more "stuff" to offer, but I think that the political and economic offerings have enabled it to grow more than Rangoon. In some ways, I hope Myanmar stays undiscovered but still continues to develop. Highly unlikely, seeing the trend here with tourists enjoying Cambodia. In any case, this is a truly remarkable country.

Wordless Wednesday (Burma)

Burma Day 5: Yangon

I don't have a problem having a "me" day. Today's been that kind of day. I woke up in the mid-morning range, and meandered down to the Asian buffet breakfast that the hotel provides. I could get used to these Burmese fried noodles. Good thing they don't make them in Shenyang.

Poolside. The hardest decision I've made today is whether to turn over now or in 10 minutes. It's a hard life when that's your biggest worry. I mean, it could be worse, I suppose. I could find it more difficult to decide whether I want a margarita or a piña colada. But I'm pretty sure I want the margarita with my caprese salad and samosas. The pool waiters must think I'm a glutton because I ordered both of these dishes; I didn't expect to get 8 samosas though. In Shenyang, we only get 2 per order!!

Alas, eventually I must get up from my lounge position. I am meeting R & D at the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in the city center at 5:00pm. This is my last tourist stop before my midnight departure back to Seoul and then Shenyang. We plan to meet at the east gate and then explore the complex together. From what I've heard, it's the biggest attraction in Yangon, so here's for saving the best for last!

-/-

While I was walking to the pagoda, I realized that there is a great deal of diversity in the Burmese population. Although the majority of the people here would call themselves Buddhist Burmese, I have met and seen many Muslims and Indians as well. There are churches and mosques, temples and pagodas everywhere. Freedom to practice and belong to whichever faith one believes in. It's refreshing, especially coming from China. And once again, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda is a living temple, with people coming to present their offerings at one of the many different shrines in the complex. Aside from the tourists, there are young families with children, old couples, Buddhist priests and students, all worshipping side-by-side in this holy place. 

So I definitely saved the most splendor for last! Shwe Dagon did not disappoint. As we walked up the interior steps to the elevated temple, I couldn't stop thinking how amazing the last 5 days have been. Certainly the most exciting trip I've ever been on in my entire life. The people, the sights, the sounds, the tastes, and even the smells have been one surprise after another. Who knew a country like this could hold so many adventures? Burma is a hidden gem and I encourage all of you to visit if you have the chance. I'm already planning my return trip. 

Burma Day 3: Bagan

From where I sit, I can see easily 105 temples. There are no words to describe them. 

What a morning. Right now I'm sitting by the oasis of a pool at the hotel. The water shines back a crisp, bright blue that matches the cloudless sky above me. If I didn't know better, I would think I am in heaven. Today has been absolutely perfect so far and it's only three in the afternoon.

I woke up at 5:30am to run, hoping to catch the sunrise with temples in view. And boy, did I! 5:30am in Bagan is pitch black, the blackest of black. No streetlights, no city lights, no traffic lights. The village is quiet and still sleeping. I know I need to go west, and then north, to get to the temples. So I start running down the dirt roads that will hopefully lead me into the village. There is no one on the roads at this hour. Not even the dogs are awake. As I get to the middle of the village, I start to see people moving about. People getting on bikes and heading places, maybe work, maybe school. I pass another runner (Western, of course) and we nod at each other. When I hit a major intersection and can only go north or south, I know I'm going the right way. Turning right, I head north toward temple country. The sky slowly turns from midnight blue to a lavender, and then a lighter periwinkle blue; meanwhile, I can see the outlines of massive temples alongside the road. The pictures I had seen on the web were not fake: there are temples everywhere!

I see a path and decide, why not? I stopped at the first temple along that particular path and of course it at had a makeshift ladder made of bamboo leading to the roof. Give me a ladder and I will climb it. And so there I sat, atop an ancient temple, to watch the sun come over the horizon. The sky looked as if it had caught on fire under the clouds. Whether it was the cool breeze rushing over my slightly clammy skin or the majesty of the sunrise, I kept getting goosebumps. No words can explain that feeling and the sight before me. As I came back down the ladder, the temple's key keeper saw me and shooed her son over to talk to me. His name was Thomzin and he was ten years old. His English was fantastic and we chatted for a minute. "What's your favorite temple?" I asked. "My temple" he said, pointing to the one I had just watched the sunrise from. Simple. Beautiful.

After breakfast (which was delicious), R & D and I spent the rest of the morning biking through Bagan. I lost track of the number of temples we saw, but we stopped at the most significant ones along the road north of Old Bagan. Somehow I thought I'd get tired of temples after the first four or five, but I didn't. Each one was different and it made me feel like Indiana Jones, climbing around on them and discovering nooks with statues. These are living temples, where people actually go to pray and make offerings. If I had a few days here, I would sit at one all day and talk to the Burmese about their life, their culture. Not only are the Burmese I have met so incredibly nice, but they are also very willing to talk and explain their country to foreigners. I am in awe of their country and its beauty. I have an especially soft spot for kids, so when they are talk to me and try to hawk handcrafts and postcards, I can't hold back my smiles. Plus, I'm a sucker for postcards.

-/-

Tonight we biked to a temple nearby to watch the sunset. I had mapped three possible temples from which R & D could choose from. We ended up at none of them but instead I picked a nondescript one alongside the road that looked climbable. For most of the evening, we were the only souls there, enjoying the serenity of the surroundings. Again, we all felt a bit like Indiana Jones, traipsing over the old ruins of temples. There was so much history and so much to discover. This is truly an amazing country.