Monday, September 30, 2013

Cambodia: Phnom Penh (Day 2)

Itinerary

  • Will's Cafe
  • National Museum of Cambodia
  • Friends Cafe - Closed
  • Crêpe Mania - Closed
  • Brown's Coffee and Bakery (cafe food)
  • Royal Palace
  • Hotel
  • Deco (Modern American food)
A much tougher run today, not as refreshing as yesterday. But what can you do? I can't control everything. 

Dragon outside the National Museum
After yesterday's intense itinerary, today's was more in the historic realm. My first stop after a fab brunch was the National Museum, which is literally a few blocks from my hotel. I really wish I could have taken photos inside because the artifacts were so impressive. I snuck a few with my iPhone (shh! don't tell!) but there was even beauty in the building itself, so I did admire the architecture and its lush courtyard. Hot as balls with no air conditioning, though with frequent shaded bench breaks and meditation moments outside, I survived. Inside, a room with hundreds of different Buddha statues was the most impressive, all in different sizes and variations of poses. Statues and carvings throughout were staggeringly impressive, yet the museum itself is humble and uncommanding.

I tried a few places nearby for lunch but because of the upcoming holiday, some places were closed. Ended up at a coffee joint suggested to me for a delicious local drink: iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. It threw me into such a state of relaxation that I ended up just chilling there to eat a light lunch. My waitress was so floored to hear that I was American but I chose to visit her country from China. She asked how I had heard about Brown's and was giddy to learn that a foreigner had recommended it to me. The simple things in life. The chicken pesto sandwich was delish (seriously, like so close to Cosi's the memories came rushing back) and it filled me up just enough to get me through the next leg of the day. Brown's is a great place to whittle away the two hours I had until the palace opened after lunch. Oh, and everywhere here has free wifi! Just ask for the password.

Intricate roof of the Royal Palace
The Royal Palace itself is a massive white building with tiered roofs and intricate tilework, but the grounds are even more impressive and large. Unfortunately, as I was buying tickets, I heard the ever-familiar drone of Mandarin Chinese. When I realized I would be sharing the space with a whole bunch of Mainlanders, I sighed. But to be honest, the place was big enough that I could avoid them easily. Gilded buildings all over with many awnings, a couple hundred carvings, and sculptures dotting the gardens. Everywhere one looked, another beautiful building to explore. There were even monkeys around, chirping at tourists who brought snacks like bananas or oranges. Quite the photo op!
Nomnomnom
I tired quickly with the grating company of the Zhongguoren and the heat of the afternoon sun. By 3, I was puckered out and in need of some water. Although my hotel was still only 100m from the palace entrance, it felt like a marathon to walk there in the sweltering temperatures. I collapsed on the bed once I arrived, but before I fell asleep, I donned my bathing suit and made my way up to the rooftop pool deck. There, I quick dove in for a swim and promptly passed out on the lounge chair. Almost two hours later, my body somewhat rested, I made my way back to the room to prep for dinner.

Waiting for Gatsby
The Advisor (a weekly local magazine) had rave reviews of a fairly new-ish restaurant called Deco. Small, precise menu but lauded for the fabulous drinks. No convincing necessary here! I made a reservation (for 1, so sad!) and hopped in a tuk-tuk over to the southern part of town. Totally worth the hype for the cocktails and the food was tasty too. I asked for more flatbread to mop up the delicious yogurt spinach lentil dish I started with, but I would have used my fingers it was that good. After two well-crafted drinks made with a hefty amount of gin, I would probably have enjoyed anything though. The music was great and the ambiance was totally Great Gatsby-esque. I had no problem heading to bed early with the hope of sleeping in a bit for my final day in Phnom Penh. 

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